Expert answer

Hi Sharon,

The Elroq is nicer to drive, though the Atto 3 is noticeably faster and more responsive than the entry-level '50' model as it has a more powerful electric motor. The BYD also gets a bigger battery and longer range, but I suspect that isn't such an issue given your short commute.

I prefer the interior, style and quality of the Elroq, and it has a larger boot.

For my money, it would be the Skoda, though as ever we'd urge you to go test drive both to see which you prefer.

Expert answer

Hi Thomas,

The Tiguan eHybrid officially manages up to 121 kilometres on a charge of its 19.7kWh battery. That's up among the longest-range PHEVs on the market right now. Cupra's Terramar is built on the same underpinnings and has more or less the same electric range as well.

In comparison, the Tucson PHEV and Sportage PHEV manage 70km at most as they have a smaller battery. Same story for the Toyota C-HR. The Toyota RAV4 PHEV goes slightly further on a charge than those, but we suspect that situation will improve further in the new generation that is about to be unveiled.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

First up, if you're not going to be able to charge a car up at home, we'd recommend you do not buy the MX-30. Yes, it's much improved with the 'range-extender' engine on board, but it's still a car designed to be plugged in and charged up. Without that, it would be a very frustrating petrol car with a tiny fuel tank. Read our review of the MX-30 R-EV here if you're still interested.

We're big fans of the Qashqai e-Power. It feels very like an EV at times to drive, giving you a flavour for that, yet you don't plug it in to charge it up. Go take a test drive for yourself to see if you agree with us. And read our detailed reviews of the Qashqai e-Power here. https://www.completecar.ie/car/search/car-reviews/Nissan/Qashqai

There are 2021 examples of the plug-in hybrid Velar in the classifieds varying from about €49,000 to as high as €75,000, though none are as low-mileage as your car, so that will help get a strong price for sure. That €75,000 example is an anomaly though so bank on somewhere slightly north of €50,000.

Expert answer

Hi Niall,

With your requirements and budget, you'll certainly be looking at a used EV rather than a new one, which may mean buying a car that doesn't have much of its original regular warranty remaining (as the industry default is three years - though there are exceptions). However, the car makers include a longer warranty on the drive battery to reassure buyers of their longevity. Typically, this is for eight years and 160,000km (from new), though the precise figures vary from model to model.

You've not specified if any of your kids are in small seats or boosters so we assume three of them can fit across in one row of a normal car (do come back to us if we're wrong on that as that will limit your options considerably).

In terms of your driving use, and assuming you'll get a home charger to cover day-to-day charging, you're going to have to plan to use the public charging network on your longer journeys. Very few used EVs in your budget will do 400km on a charge all year around with five people on board.

Most should require just one top-up on that trip, however, taking no longer to charge than it will to get the kids all out and into the bathroom and for you to grab a coffee.

I'm sure you'd have to stop a few times on a 1,000km trip regardless of charging up the car.

Taking a look at what's on the market for under €25,000, here are some options we'd recommend:

Cupra Born: This is a five-seat, five-door hatchback about the same size as a Volkswagen Golf on the outside (and indeed it's the same underneath as the Volkswagen ID.3), but it has way more rear-seat space. Your budget gets you a 2022 example using the 58kWh battery pack, which means a realistic range of about 300km between charges.

Read our Cupra Born reviews here

Hyundai Kona Electric: The Kona is a five-door, five-seat crossover you should find as new as 2023 available within budget. That's the last of the previous-generation model. It's smaller in the boot and back seat than the Cupra mentioned above, but it is efficient. There are even some available with a 64kWh battery for a realistic range between charges of nearly 400km.

Read our Hyundai Kona reviews here

Kia e-Niro: This is another five-seat crossover, actually sharing its underpinnings with the Hyundai. However, the Niro is noticeably bigger inside the cabin and boot. There are loads of 2022 examples around with a 64kWh battery - meaning a real-world range of nearly 400km again. Sidebar: the Kia e-Soul is a stylish alternative sharing most of the same components, though it's less practical as a family car.

Read our Kia Niro reviews here
Read our Kia Soul reviews here

Skoda Enyaq: The Enyaq is a fantastic family car with much more space in the cabin and boot than all of the above. Sadly, there are very few about at your budget, though we did find a couple so it might be worth holding out for. The compromise is that you'll only be able to afford the 58kWh model, which should manage a little over 300km between charges.

Read our Skoda Enyaq reviews here

Volkswagen ID.3/ID.4: The ID.3 is VW's equivalent to the Cupra Born above and there are more of them about, most with the same 58kWh battery. Saying that, we did find a few with the 77kWh battery pack, enabling a much longer range. The ID.4 is notably larger inside and comparable with the Skoda Enyaq. It's not common within budget though.

Read our Volkswagen ID reviews

Hopefully that's some useful food for thought. Don't hesitate to come back to us if you want us to help narrow down your search.

Expert answer

Hi Les,

No it's not. You can't plug it in to charge up the battery. 

Expert answer

Hi Kevin,

Looking at the facts first of all, the Grandland Electric and Scenic E-Tech electric start at roughly the same asking price, below €40,000 once all incentives are taken into consideration. However, for that price, the Grandland gets a 73kWh battery pack and an official range of up to 523 kilometres, while the Scenic's 60kWh battery means a range of 430km. The Grandland is more powerful as well, featuring a 213hp motor while a 170hp motor comes with the Scenic's smaller battery.

Nonetheless, that Scenic is a massive 300kg lighter than the Opel so it's actually faster accelerating, better to drive and a little more efficient.

The Scenic can be had with an 87kWh battery to extend the range to an official 625km, though that's more expensive again. On a three-year finance package that may not be an issue of course.

The Scenic is a bit smaller overall, with a length 200mm shy of the Grandland's, but it seems to be better packaged, as the interior is just as spacious and the boot, at 535 litres, is only 15 litres down on the Opel's. The better packaging is likely to do with the fact the Grandland underpinnings were developed to accept engines as well an electric powertrain, while the Scenic is only offered as an EV.

Both feel of good quality inside, though we much rather the infotainment and dashboard layout of the Renault. On the road, we also prefer how the Scenic drives.

Hopefully all that is of help, but don't hesitate to come back to us if you need more.

The best advice we can give you is to go and test drive the cars before you make any decision.

Expert answer

Hi Martin,

Other than the lack of engine noise, the graphics in the driver's instruments subtly alter if the car is in electric mode. You can also select an energy flow display for the central touchscreen to keep an easy eye on it.

Regardless, the 5008 Hybrid never runs for long distances on purely electric power as its battery is so small. Instead, it does lots of little bursts using the battery and motor, notably so when moving off from a standstill or barely moving along in slow traffic.

Expert answer

Hi Dana,

It really sounds related to the charging circuit and, before going through the list below, perhaps check that the battery was replaced by a 'silver-calcium' one that is compatible with the so-called “Ford Smart Charge System”. A regular lead-acid battery is not compatible.

We'd have hoped that a good mechanic would have tried the below things already, but if not:

Bad ground or wiring issue

- A poor ground connection or corroded cables can cause intermittent charging problems.

- Check and clean all ground connections (especially the engine-to-chassis ground and battery-to-body ground).

- Look for damaged or frayed wiring between the alternator, battery and fuse box.

Alternator not charging properly

- Even new alternators can be faulty. A voltage drop test should confirm if it's truly charging.

- With the engine running, check the voltage at the battery terminals. It should read around 13.5-14.5 volts.

- If it's much lower, the alternator isn't charging properly, or something is disrupting the circuit.

Smart Charge System

- The Ford Smart Charge system can fail and cause charging problems.

- Check the three-pin connector going to the alternator - if it's loose, corroded, or damaged, the alternator may not work correctly.

- Try disconnecting the Smart Charge system (forcing the alternator to work as a standard one) and see if the problem improves.

Parasitic battery drain

- If something is drawing power while the car is off, the battery might not have enough charge when you restart.

- A mechanic can do a parasitic draw test by pulling fuses one by one to find a circuit draining power.

Faulty ECU or sensors

- If the ECU isn't regulating voltage properly, it could be sending the wrong signals to the alternator.

- Some Ford owners have reported a faulty crankshaft position sensor or bad engine ground causing similar symptoms.

Fuse box or relay issue

- Check the engine bay fuse box for water damage or corrosion - this is common on older Fords.

- A failing alternator fuse or relay could intermittently stop charging.

Expert answer

Hi Simeon,

I think a plug-in hybrid such as this could work well for you, though best to go into the purchase realising that the car is likely to go no further than 40-50km on electric power most of the time. Nonetheless, if you can charge it up at home on cheap night-rate electricity then it should cost you very little to run. You’d likely do the Cork to Ringaskiddy and back trip barely using the engine.

By default, the car will use the electric motor and ability as much as possible, so on longer runs the drive battery charge will be quickly used up and the engine will be on most of the time from then on. It can affect responsiveness a little.

The Volvo has a setting you can activate to hold the battery charge, or top it up, using the engine as a generator while it drives along. This is useful if you want to have battery charge for later in the journey to allow for electric-only driving, but it isn’t any more efficient as it uses more fuel from the tank to do this.

If you can charge up at home or work, I’d suggest you’re a perfect candidate for an electric car. A vast majority of them could manage the Cork to Bantry return journey without needing to be charged up.

Expert answer

Hi Jack,

The EV6 has a longer range on a charge of its battery and is more efficient, though that’s probably not a major issue for you as you’ll likely charge up at home every night and - I assume - have plenty of range in either car to keep you going for a shift. I prefer the quality of the Toyota’s cabin and its smoothness on the road, two things it betters the Kia on. There’s not much difference between them in terms of interior space, but the Kia has a larger boot, which may be relevant to your needs.

I highly recommend you go and test drive both cars for yourself, so you get a feel for which you prefer. Do let us know which you go for and why.

Expert answer

Hi John,

The plug-in hybrid model would be very cheap to run if you can keep its battery charged up at home or work to carry out those small local journeys you mentioned, but it will certainly be thirstier than your current diesel on longer drives where you can't charge up the battery from an external source. You'll need to do the maths and decide whether you can actually keep it charged up easily.

If you want us to look for alternatives, come back to us with a rough budget, whether you want a new or used car and the number of people you need to carry regularly and we'll see what else might suit you.

Expert answer

Hi Daniel,

First up, the battery in those alone wouldn't cost in the 10s of thousands - it's considerably less than that. Not that you'd ever want to have to do it, but still, it's worth bearing that in mind.

I must admit we have heard of a few cases where BMW has struggled to identify an issue with the hybrid system recharging the battery and the repair is expensive as it involved replacing the whole hybrid system, not just the battery. That's frightening of course, but it's only a few cases rather than every example of the car.

If you go ahead with the purchase, perhaps consider an aftermarket used car warranty.

If you don't feel confident going for it, come back to us with more information on your budget and needs and we'll try to find you an alternative to your diesel Passat.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

I drove the Macan 4 at its international launch (read that review here) and today the Audi Q6 e-tron on Irish roads so I can have a stab at comparing them, though bear in mind that both were high-spec cars. The Q6 e-tron I tested was the quattro model using the same two electric motors as the Macan 4, as well as the 100kWh (95kWh of which is usable) battery so these are quite comparable.

The Audi had loads of options though, including air suspension, so that undoubtedly alters how it drives. On that note, the Audi is a little more comfortable than the Porsche, but a little less involving and slower to respond to steering inputs and accelerator inputs. Both are very quiet, refined and smooth to drive, with the Audi slightly better in that regard. The Porsche has fractionally better 'blending' of the friction brakes and recuperation via the motors.

There's nothing to choose between them in terms of range, efficiency and charging capabilities.

Somewhat surprisingly, the Macan 4 has a marginally bigger boot and extra storage under the bonnet included in the price, while you have to pay Audi more to get the 'frunk' insert in the Q6. The rear seats of the Audi feel more spacious, however, than the Macan's.

The cabins are vastly different, but both of very high quality. I prefer the perfectly round steering wheel in the Porsche.

Finally, pricing: the comparable Audi is cheaper than the Porsche and there are more affordable versions of the Q6 e-tron - one with a smaller battery, another with rear-wheel drive - that there are no equivalents to in the Macan lineup.

So as you can see, no clear 'winner' as there are too many variables at work, but hopefully this helps you choose which is for you and your budget. 

Do let us know which one you go for. Both are lovely.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

A battery in a PHEV (and an EV for that matter) and its various components are no less waterproof or more susceptible to damage in such conditions than an engine and its various components. EVs and PHEVs go through the same stringent quality control checks and have to withstand the same lifecycle as their petrol-powered counterparts. 

Expert answer

Hi Catherine,

Stop-start systems can be tempermental. We get so many queries about them that we decided to write a feature explaining the potential issues - Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Nonetheless, issues with it are regularly caused by weak batteries. Saying that, I wouldn't expect your car to start properly in the morning if there was a big battery problem, so I don't think the boot opening problem is linked to the battery. The Fiat 500 has a known issue where the wiring near the tailgate hinge can become damaged or broken - I suspect that's where your problem lies.

A decent mechanic should be able to quickly fix that for you.

Expert answer

Hi David,

It's a tricky time for choosing a new car in your situation for sure, especially given your high mileage. I feel that a diesel would still be a little more economical for you than the latest hybrids unless you keep your speeds down. If you spend most of that at 120km/h then a good diesel is hard to beat from an economy point of view. Saying that, the Corolla and new Civic are both very efficient cars and, if you adapt your driving style to their powertrains, then it is possible to return some trully outstanding fuel economy figures. And it must be said, with one eye on future values, a hybrid might be a more shrewd choice.

In your situation as described, I'd shy away from purely-electric cars for now as well. I'd be worried about relying on the public charging network to support such high mileage.

Expert answer

Hi Teresa,

We used to get so many queries on this subject that we published a feature called Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

If you read that you'll discover that the systems are highly sensitive to battery charge and load, even when working perfectly. Could it be that you often have high-load items switched on? Things like heated seats, air conditioning, rear window demister, that sort of thing.

Now, in a DSG-equipped automatic car, you shouldn't need to put the car into neutral to get the stop-start system to work - that's only on manual cars. You can leave it in D (drive). What does affect it, however, is how firmly you are holding your foot on the brake pedal when at a standstill. Sometimes it's necessary to give the brake pedal a firm push before the engine will cut out.

Other things to watch out for: if you move the steering wheel, it is likely to cause the engine to restart. And if you're in the Sport driving mode or you've selected the Sport gearbox setting, then stop-start might not work either.

If none of the above changes your experience, I suggest getting a mechanic to come out in the car with you to check it over and observe how you drive, and then let them do the same.

Best of luck with it - come back to us and let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Nelson,

OK, as ever our answers here include a certain amount of ‘it depends…’ as much does indeed depend on your driving style, the ambient temperature, the cost of your electricity at home and how much public charging you need to do. But, roughly, this is how it should all break down.

Let’s start with the Kona — and by the way, these are both excellent choices as the Kona and the Ioniq 5 are amongst the most impressive EVs on sale right now. Hyundai officially claims that the Kona Electric has consumption on the WLTP test of 14.9kWh/100km, but we’re going to be a little more pessimistic, or realistic perhaps, and assume that you’ll achieve more like 18kWh/100km.

At that rate of consumption, you’ll — obviously — burn through 18kWh of electricity for each 100km you cover. On its undercounted rate for electricity, Electric Ireland will charge you 21.9c per kWh, which means that you’ll pay €3.93 in electricity costs for each 100km journey, assuming you do all of your charging at home.

What if you’re not charging at home? Well… If you’re using one of the new very rapid ESB chargers, which cost 37c per kWh, that cost obviously jumps a bit. In fact it goes up to €6.63 per 100km. If you’re using an IONITY 350kW charger, without a discount or membership, you’ll pay 73c per kWh and that pushes the price up to more than €10 per 100km.

However, the likelihood is that you’ll be using a mix of all three, and maybe you’re lucky and can charge for free at work, so let’s stick a finger in the air and average it out at around €5 per 100km journey. That’s just for the electricity cost.

If you go for the Ioniq 5, then we reckon that you’re looking at more like 20kWh per 100km in day-to-day use, which gives you costs of €4.36 (home charging), €7,37 (ESB rapid charging), or €14.54 (IONITY). Again, all of these prices are to an extent moving targets, and can be reduced further with discounts on charging and home energy bills. Or with free or subsidised at-work charging.

Of course, there are not total life costs. You have to factor in the costs of buying the cars themselves — Hyundai currently has an offer for the Kona Electric of €254 per month on a PCP plan, or the Ioniq 5 at €380 per month.

Those are both for the basic models, but that’s actually OK — the base Ioniq 5, with the smaller battery, is actually quite a canny buy as it will still do a reliable 360km on one charge, and doesn’t look nor feel all that much different to the ritzier versions inside or out. Assuming a reasonable cost for insurance (never an entirely safe assumption to make…) I reckon we can get you in under the €450-per-month mark for either car, with the Kona obviously having a bit more headroom for costs.

The cost of the charging station at home is even more difficult to answer with surety. There is a wide variety of home chargers available now, at various price points, though of course you should be eligible for an SEAI rebate, too. The unknown is if any additional work needs to be done to your house's electrics. Take a read of our Charging your electric car at home feature for a little more detail on that.

Expert answer

Hi Brian,

A diesel car is quite well-suited to that journey still, as it's over 100 kilometres each way, but we can understand why you might be looking to 'electrify'.

First up, I think we can disregard plug-in hybrids for your needs. None of them have an all-electric range to do a full journey from Limerick to Killarney - or vice versa - even if you could plug it in before heading back the other way again. That would make it potentially quite inefficient overall for you.

A regular hybrid might work depending on your driving style. The N21, which I assume you use, is quite a busy road, so average speeds aren't very high, but some drivers do make the effort to overtake slower traffic and keep their average speed up. If you're the type to amble along with the flow of traffic, then a hybrid might get close to your diesel's economy. If you tend to rush and do lots of overtaking, it won't.

Depending on your budget and situation, I think an electric car would be a good option. There are loads of models with official ranges in excess of 400km now and even allowing for a deterioration of that due to higher speeds and cold temperatures, they'll all likely cover the return journey from Limerick to Killarney and back with little trouble. You could top up the battery if you need to in Killarney, but the vast majority of your charging could be done each night at home. That is of course assuming that you have off-street parking and somewhere to install an electric charger. That's key to EV ownership.

If you don't quite need the space of the 5 Series, but like the BMW brand, I'd highly recommend the BMW i4. 

Other than that, check out our list of every electric car currently on sale in Ireland for ideas - and feel free to come back to us to discuss this further. 

Either way, drop us a message to let us know what you decided to do

Expert answer

Hi John Paul,

You’re dead right in that four-wheel-drive EVs are currently rather expensive — the best value ones around at the moment are the Volkswagen ID.4 GTX, the Skoda Enyaq Sportline iV 80x and the Tesla Model 3 Long Range, all of which are in the region of €57,000 to €59.000.  Which is quite a lot of money, even if all three are excellent cars.

If you want to go front-wheel drive, but keep the SUV body shape, then there are still some very good options all the same. The Kia e-Niro, the Kia e-Soul and the Hyundai Kona Electric all share the same battery, electric motor and front-wheel-drive platform, and all are excellent cars. The Niro is fractionally the more practical, the Soul arguably the best to drive and the Kona a pretty good compromise between the two.

Or you could try the MG ZS if you want something a bit cheaper, but bear in mind that a new, longer-range model is coming in the new year that will bump up its price from €28,995 to €31,000. 

Mind you, you’ve said you’re happy to put winter tyres on, and this should really bring the various rear-wheel-drive models back into play. With the right tyres, and given the hefty two-tonne weight of larger models such as the ID.4 and Enyaq, you’re unlikely to experience any major traction issues, so don’t count those models out. 

Expert answer

Hi David,

There are no major reported problems with the Q7 e-tron, and Audis in general tend to have very high levels of both quality and reliability. That said, as it’s a plug-in hybrid, check and see how much running it has done on electric. If the previous owners were especially conscientious about plugging it in and running on the battery, that could mean that the engine hasn’t actually been run very much, and that can lead to niggling reliability issues down the line. Sounds odd, but it’s true — regular, gentle running is best for long-term engine life.

Other than that, make sure that all the electric and electronic systems are all working as they should, as these are complex vehicles and difficult and expensive to put right if they develop problems. 

Expert answer

Hi Helen,

OK, first off there’s nothing to be concerned about. People who are temporarily resident in Ireland are allowed to bring their cars with them, and not have to re-register or fully import them for as long as 12 months. There are no forms to fill out, you just have to be able to show proof of address, purchase, tax, and insurance when and if you’re asked. Students who are studying in Ireland can keep cars with them for the duration of their studies, even if that exceeds 12 months, so there are clearly generally lenient rules when it comes to this. Given that your daughter is (a) intending to return to the UK when it is safe to do so and (b) effectively sheltering with you because of the pandemic, I wouldn’t be too concerned about having the car taken away nor anything like it.

Really, the only issue that would arise is if your daughter wanted to sell the car here, but if she’s going to keep it, I would say you’ve not much to worry about. 

Expert answer

Hi Justina,

Start-stop issues are common with a lot of cars and we get many queries about it. If your car is not being used much right now, then the battery may not be in great condition and that's a leading reason for stop-start problems. It could be something else of course. Your car should still be under warranty if you want to talk to your Hyundai dealer about it.

In the meantime, read Why won't my car's stop-start system work? on the subject.

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

There aren’t any specific battery issues to look for, and the good thing about a plug-in hybrid is that you can’t fast-charge them, so there’s less likelihood of wear and tear on the battery cells from repeated rapid charges. Obviously, batteries do degrade a little over time, but you shouldn’t see more than a few percentage points wiped off the performance. Make sure you go for a fully-charged test drive first though, and if the range seems abruptly short (allowing for weather, traffic etc) then the battery might have been physically damaged at some point.

Other plug-in hybrids worth considering would be a BMW 530e, although that probably won’t squeeze into your budget, or a Volkswagen Passat GTE, which provides performance almost as good as that of the 330e, but for a much lower cost overall and it's more spacious. Don’t forget that the battery eats considerably into the 330e’s boot space, and it was never a big car inside to begin with. The updated Passat GTE (2020) was available as an estate, too...

BMW 330e review

Volkswagen Passat GTE review

Volkswagen Passat GTE Estate review

BMW 530e review

Expert answer

Hi Tanya,

There should be a manual external boot release — on an 07 Jetta it’s a rubberised switch, up under the VW logo and above the number plate. If that’s not working then it could explain why the key fob release is being inconsistent. Either way, a visit to your Volkswagen dealer is probably in order. It may just be that the battery in the key needs replacing, but you may need a new key, or at worst a replacement boot release. 

Expert answer

Hi John,

One known issue in those hybrid Fits/Jazzes affects the relay for the air conditioning compressor clutch. It can lead to battery discharging, etc. Might be worth investigating that.

Expert answer

Hi Howard,

If I were you, I'd stick with diesel for now. Assuming that, with such high mileage, you won't have time to plug the car in to charge it up regularly, the 530e won't get near the 520d's average economy. Once the battery charge is used up, you're effectively driving a heavy petrol car. The fact you're VAT-registered and can claim back the VAT on the diesel is another reason to stick with it for now.

Yes, electrification is coming to all cars, but we don't believe it suits all motorists just yet. The beauty of you changing your car every 15 months is that you can react quite quickly to changes in taxation and new model launches.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

You are correct on all of the above. The chances of there being a high enough concentration of hydrogen in the air (when the bonnet is open) to cause an explosion are slim, but it's still good practice to take the potential spark of connecting the negative cable away from the area. 

Incidentally, older batteries and those being charged up are more likely to emit hydrogen, though it's no harm to do the same with the 'donor' car. The key thing here of course is that there's no spark produced when you connect the leads to the first battery. 

Expert answer

Hi Jim,

If you're talking about a regular combustion-engined petrol or diesel car and their 12-volt battery, then yes, assuming the alternator is working properly, it will be driven by the engine and will charge up the battery so long as the electrical load from the battery is less than it can supply.

If you're referring to plug-in hybrids, and their high-voltage lithium-ion batteries, then it's not as simple as that and it differs per model and even depends on the driving mode. Most will, by default, use the battery to the fullest before starting up the engine and then may not charge the battery much except for kinetic energy recovered during braking. The idea is that you plug them in to charge up the battery regularly for maximum efficiency. However, most of them have a setting to override that and actively charge up the battery using the engine. It's usually activated by a button or option in the infotainment menu.

Expert answer

Hi Ricky-Lee Morgan,

In the vast majority of cases this is down to either a battery that is not in perfect health or a dodgy sensor. See our feature Why won't my car's stop-start system work? and if that doesn't help then you will need to get the car plugged into a diagnostic computer by a mechanic.

Expert answer

Hi Barry, 

Yes it can. You can toggle through various modes with the eDrive button on the centre console to the Save Battery setting and then the engine combines with regenerative braking to charge up the battery.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

You certainly can do, but just be aware that you’ll have to pay some import duty on it, which may reduce any potential saving compared to an Irish market car. Do your research carefully and get in touch with your local Nissan dealer to make sure that they’ll honour any outstanding vehicle or battery warranty.

Expert answer

Hi Chee,

The Countryman SE plug-in hybrid can, potentially, be capable of tremendous fuel economy, but it all depends on how you use it. If you (a) have a driveway or a garage and (b) can install a home charger and (c) tend to do short hops around town most of the time, then conceivably you could get from one end of the week to the next without burning any petrol at all. The Countryman SE will do in and around 30-35km (realistically) on a full charge of the battery. If you’re regularly taking on longer journeys, though, it gets a bit thirstier and can dip as low as 25mpg if you’re really using all the power. That said it is, as with pretty much all MINI models, really good to drive.

The RAV4 is not. Well, not that it’s bad to drive or anything, but it’s not sharp and rewarding like the MINI. That said, it’s squishy and comfortable, so if you’re on lots of long journeys, it’s great, and it’s massively roomy inside, much more so than the MINI, so with one kid and another on the way, that’s worth taking into account. Being a closed-loop hybrid with no plug-in version (yet) it’s also better for you if you don’t have a driveway or can’t install a charging point. Figure on about 6.0-6.5 litres per 100km overall, although you can get better than that on longer, gentler runs. Oh, and it should be more or less faultlessly reliable, too. 

Read our MINI Countryman reviews here

Read our Toyota RAV reviews here

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

Currently, there isn’t one. Volvo Cars Ireland has confirmed to us that it hasn’t yet made many plans to introduce the Polestar brand or models here as yet, although given the huge success that Tesla has had in Ireland, we’d be surprised if it doesn’t happen at some stage. Most likely, it’ll be a combination of waiting to launch a couple of core Volvo electric models (the battery-powered XC40 especially) and then, once initial European and US roll-outs have taken place for Polsetar, then they’ll start to think about us.

If we had to hazard a guess, we’d say 2022 at the earliest. 

Expert answer

Hi Ann,

We'd suspect the battery or alternator aren't performing at their best. Stop-start issues are very commonplace, across all cars. So much so that we've written a feature for drivers on the subject: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Mark,

The first generation 330e has an electric-only range, on a fully-charged battery, of 40km (about 30km in real-world use) and the new, and current, version is claimed to be able to get 65km out of a full charge. Here are links to our reviews of both, which may give you more information:

2017 BMW 330e review

2020 BMW 330e review

Expert answer

Hi Tanya,

It sounds to us like the alternator may have been struggling to produce enough electrical power and that perhaps your battery could do with replacement. If the problem has not reoccurred then it's nothing to worry about, but no harm getting your battery checked before winter sets in.

Expert answer

Hi Brian,

We get so many queries about stop-start systems (in all makes and models) that we wrote a feature about it: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

However, in your case, perhaps there's something up with the alternator that prevents it from charging up the battery fully. 

It may be worth getting an auto-electrician to check it out.

Expert answer

Hi Wendy,

We get a lot of queries from people with cars that have stop-start issues. We've published this article to help: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Saying all that, we also know that the Fiat 500's engine can develop a couple of issues that may be relevant to you, including a problem with the alternator belt tension (and hence battery recharging when on the move) and another with the engine control unit.

Sadly, unless you're comfortable with checking the alternator belt for yourself, these items will have to be checked by a mechanic. 

Expert answer

Hi Gerald,

Most stop-start issues can be traced to a problem with the battery. Perhaps with such low mileage it isn't being kept topped up. Regardless, we suggest you read the feature we wrote about this, called Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Brendan,

It's a tough situation for you. We hope you have family and friends to keep in touch with and make sure all your needs are met.

Don't worry about your car. If it's not doing any mileage, then there's no worry about the DPF (diesel particulate filter) or other major diesel components clogging up from low-mileage, low-temperature use. Even if you want to start up your car every few days and let it run for 15- to 20 minutes to keep the battery charged up, that won't have a major effect, not so long as, when we are free to drive where we want again, you take it for a good long run at some decent motorway speeds.

Other than that, keep an eye on the tyre pressures and fluid levels, watching out for leaks under the car. Also, don't park under a tree if you can help it, as it could lead to paint corrosion. 

Expert answer

Hi John,

There's a lot less going on in the exhaust aftertreatment of a modern petrol engine than the equivalent diesel so I suspect the diesel needs the warm-up more. It may also be due to the extra strain on the starter and battery due to the high compression of the diesel engine. When the oil is cold, the friction may be higher, causing a higher strain again. 

Either way, it's nothing to worry about.

Expert answer

Hi Sue,

Sounds to us that the battery could be in poor condition. Lots of cars develop issues with their stop-start systems. We get so many questions about it that we wrote a feature about it all - Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Dave,

I'm surprised to hear that from a new truck where the battery will be in good condition, but stop-start systems regularly don't work as people expect. The system measures loads of variables before deciding whether the engine will be stopped, including the temperature of the engine and even the outside temperature. If it's cold weather, it may not work at all. If you're using items that are a big electrical drain, it may not operate. 

Read our Why won't my car's stop-start system work? feature

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Well, Tesla already sells a Model S long range that will go for a claimed 610km...

Expert answer

Hi Iobhán,

If you’ve bought a new electric car, talk to the dealer from whom you bought it. All of the major electric car brands have their own charging recommendations and can usually offer you a supply and fitting service. If it’s a second hand one, talk to the guys at ESB e-cars as a first port of call — lots of knowledgable people there and they’re very helpful. As a rule of thumb you’ll need to be able to run a charger with a power output of at least 7.4kW or you’ll not be able to fully charge the car overnight, especially if it’s one of the new big-battery models. 

Expert answer

Hi Sandra,

It shouldn't cause any damage, but it could indicate a weakness in your battery or electrical system, so it's best to have it looked at when you can. 

Read our Why won't my car's stop-start system work? feature for more information

Expert answer

Hi Tahir,

The first thing we'd check is the condition of the battery. It sounds like the system is turning off the engine as normal, but then sensing that it needs to go back on right away. That's unusual, to be honest, as most systems just won't turn the engine off if an issue is detected. I'd advise you bring the car to a good mechanic or auto-electrician to have it looked over.

Our feature, Why won't my car's stop-start system work?, is worth a read as well.

Expert answer

Hi Anne,

Is that a 100km round trip every day? Or 100km each way? Either way, you could potentially get away with a fully-electric car, assuming that you can charge at home and charge again at work. Either way, though, you’ll have to spend big and go for one of the latest electric cars with a  50kWh or 62kWh  battery, such as the Hyundai Kona Electric or the new Renault Zoe. What could well be an easier (and much cheaper) option would be to go for a hybrid. There’s only one hybrid-engined car in the Polo-size class at the moment, and that’s the Toyota Yaris. The current version is pretty good, but there is an  all-new one coming next year, so you might be best off waiting for that to appear. By then, the new Honda Jazz, also a hybrid, should be available. Or, you could keep it a lot simpler and go for a new Polo with the excellent 1.0-litre turbo petrol engine. It'll be tough to beat your diesel Polo for outright economy, though.

Expert answer

Hi Sharon,

OK, let’s deal with these questions one-by-one. There are a number of apps available that can give you the locations, availability and in-or-out-of-service condition of charging points. The ESB provides that through its e-Cars app, and there’s a very good independent one called Zapp Map, which also covers the whole of the UK if you’re planning any longer journeys.

All current electric cars (pretty much all brands will have at least one on sale by the end of next year, but for the moment the big players are Audi, BMW, Hyundai, Jaguar, Kia, Mercedes, Nissan, Renault, Tesla and Volkswagen) can be charged at home overnight on cheap rate electricity. The crucial question there is not the car, but your electricity provider and the tariff plan that you’re on.

Finally, battery capacity has been hugely improved in the past few years and, although that does come with a cost penalty, the average useable range of an electric car has gone up dramatically. Generally speaking you should expect to get at least 250-300km from most mainstream models now, with as much as 450km available from some of the more expensive cars.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Yes you’re right — the T8’s acceleration is a combination of the engine and the electric motor working in concert. When you run the battery down in electric-only mode, it will always keep a minimal charge on board, so that the car can then function in hybrid mode. If you use maximum acceleration repeatedly and in quick succession, you might well reach a point where the battery cries enough, but it will have charged up again — from both the engine and the regenerative braking system — to go again within a few minutes. 

Wall chargers generally cost around €900 to €1,000 fully installed, but there’s a grant from the Sustainable Energy Authority Ireland available that will cover up to €600 of that.

Finally, you’re absolutely right — a V60 only gives away a 31-litre advantage to the larger V90 when it comes to boot space.

Expert answer

Hi Robert,

The M50d has more peak power and torque and is quicker accelerating than the hybrid model, no question. However, the six-cylinder diesel engine is a lot louder and less smooth than the straight-six in the xDrive45e model and obviously, when the hybrid is running in electric mode it is far far quieter again. As you say, the PHEV comes with compromises, and may not be as economical over a long journey where the battery cannot be charged from an external source. 

Read our BMW X5 xDrive45e review

Read our BMW X5 M50d review

Expert answer

Hi Harry,

The most likely culprit is that there’s some electrical item draining the system as you’re driving. Or, possibly if you’re only driving for short hops, the engine is still in its warm-up phase and can’t be shut down by the stop/start. Or, and this is a wild guess, Land Rovers often have flakey electrics. 

Maybe read our Why won't my car's stop-start system work? feature for further understanding. We get a lot of questions like this.

Expert answer

Hi Robert.

Stop-start systems have a mind of their own — literally. They’re designed to only stop the engine when demand for electrical supply within the car falls low enough that it’s safe to do so. So if you’re running the air conditioning, for instance, or have the heat turned up, or if the engine is still in its warm-up phase, then it will either not shut the engine off at all, or will only shut it off briefly. Driving style also plays into it, as does where and when you’re driving. It also depends on the battery condition, so if you’re concerned about the short stop-start times, it’s worth having the health and charge level of the battery checked.

Finally, as we get so many questions on this subject, we put together a quick feature on it for your interest: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Abdul,

Stop-start systems can stop working for a variety of reasons, usually to do with battery condition or load. We get so many questions about them that we've put together this feature that you may find of interest:

Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Stewart,

A lot of cars develop this 'fault' and it's usually to do with battery condition or load. We get so many queries about it that we put together a feature explaining it all that you may find of interest:

Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Cathy,

Many cars develop similar problems, usually because of battery condition or load. Our feature on the subject, Why won't my car's stop-start system work? may help you further.

Expert answer

Hi Brendan,

We do love a bit of car-related man-maths around the CompleteCar.ie office. Yes, in theory, you could save that €425 per week travelling cost with a Tesla Model 3, once we make a couple of assumptions, and bearing in mind that a Model 3 is not free — a basic Standard Range Plus model is quoted at €625 per month in repayments on Tesla’s Irish website. With a claimed one-charge range of 409km, your theoretical Model 3 should be able to get from Dublin to Monaghan and back in one charge, with a little left over for safety (assuming it’s around 135km door-to-door). If you can charge at home and charge in Monaghan, then each full charge will cost you around €8-10, depending on your electricity tariff and how low the battery gets before you plug it in. That should put a significant dent in your travelling costs. It would also be helpful if you could charge up at work, but that’s more for ensuring you have a full charge in case you need it — the shorter intra-Dublin commute wouldn’t put much strain on your battery.

So, that’s all good. Buying in the UK, though? Not worth it. We ran the maths on this a while back and working off the base model prices — £38,500 in the UK and €48,900 here, a quick conversion at today’s rates shows that the equivalent Euro price of a new Tesla Model 3 would be €45,069. A saving? No — although the VRT would cost you nothing at the point of import (thanks to the €5,000 rebate), you would have to pay VAT on entry, as it’s a new car, and so the price would go up by €10,350. You’re better off buying local in this instance.

Expert answer

Hi Daniele,

Lots of things can cause slow starting of a modern diesel engine, including issues with the fuel system or glow plugs, or indeed the battery. You'll need to get your car along to a good mechanic to have it checked over.

Expert answer

Hi Kieran,

We would expect most stop-start issues to be sorted by a new battery, but the installer is correct: auto stop won't always work. In fact, we get so many queries about the subject that we wrote this feature you may find of interest: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Clare,

Stop-start systems are a source of annoyance for a lot of people. We get so many queries about them that we wrote this feature you may want to read: Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Saying all that, the point of a stop-start system is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions, so it's seriously pointless to go on a drive specifically to charge up the battery to make it work. It could be that your battery needs to be replaced completely.

Expert answer

Hi Richard,

We've not come across any issues with the GLC, though most would still be under warranty. It sounds like an issue with the wiring loom or possibly even the battery. We recommend you bring the car to a good auto-electrician to have it checked over.

Expert answer

Hi Beth,

Stop-start systems from all car makers do indeed have a long list of situations in which they won't work. We get so many queries about it that we wrote a guide called Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

It's certainly preferable to have the stop-start system not working rather than the car cutting out when you don't want it to.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Generally speaking, long-term hybrid reliability seems to be excellent. It probably helps that most hybrids that have been built and sold so far have been made by those paragons of reliability, Honda and Toyota. Both companies say that many of their older hybrid models — first generation Prius dating back to 1997, and Civic IMAs dating back to 2002 — are still on the road and in regular use. Indeed, Honda says that it has never had to replace a battery pack on models such as the post-2010 Insight or the little-seen Jazz Hybrid. Toyota says similar things about older Prius and Auris models, and points to the huge numbers of those cars being used on taxi fleets, racking up mega-miles with no major reliability issues to report. That’s likely helped by two things — electric motors are simple and therefore generally reliable, and most hybrid cars on the road at the moment use older-style nickel batteries, which aren’t as energy-dense as newer lithium-ion batteries, but which again are simple, rugged and reliable.

Even if you do need to eventually replace a battery pack, it’s not that expensive to do so — a second generation Prius pack change costs around €1,400 — not far off what you’d have to pay for a major engine rebuild or replacement, and you’re about as likely to need one. Basically, the advice is as for any second hand purchase — buy on condition, not mileage, make sure it has a full and complete service history and, if you have any concerns in the longer term, consider taking out a second-hand warranty programme.

Expert answer

Hi Alma,

It’s most likely to be the 23kW battery, as the Zoe 4.0 was only launched at the very end of 2016 and, Irish car sales being what they are, few if any would have been sold before January 2017. If you need confirmation, check the VIN number with a Renault dealer and they will be able to tell you more precisely. 

Expert answer

Hi Roy, 

That's not something we've come across, I'm afraid. There can be many simple reasons for a stop-start system to not work (see our popular feature on that subject here), but usually they are temporary. I guess if your battery was replaced, there may be some additional reprogramming required, but that wouldn't be standard on all cars.

If someone has told you that this is necessary, make sure you get a second opinion from another garage, preferably an official Suzuki service outlet. And if Suzuki told you that, then ask for a little explanation.

We'd be interested in the answer if you want to pop a comment in below this at a later stage.

Expert answer

Hi Anne,

There are loads of different reasons why a stop-start system won't work as you might expect it to. Most of the time it's down to the condition of the battery or the drain on it, though it could be due to the ambient temperature, too. Here are a couple of items on the site to read through before you consider having the car looked at:

Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Why does my stop-start not always work?

Expert answer

Hi Juliana,

We don't know of any common issue with the Insight, so it's probably a protection mechanism for the battery. We get a lot of similar queries, which prompted us to write the Why won't my car's stop-start system work? feature - well worth a read.

Expert answer

Hi Bernadette,

Sounds to us like the Qashqai is not a good one and it is likely to keep costing you money. We'd advise you trade it in for another car.

Expert answer

Hi Silvester,

We have got so many questions from readers about non-functioning stop-start systems (from all makes and models) that we put together this guide to help you get to the bottom of it:

Why won't my car's stop-start system work?

Expert answer

Hi Ann,

The XC40 is a really likeable car, but you’ll probably find that it’s neither as refined, nor quite as comfortable to drive as the S60 (the ride quality just isn’t as good). It’s also less roomy in the boot. The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV is a very clever vehicle, but to make the most of it, you need to have a driveway and a charging point, and be covering most of your mileage around town. The battery pack, on a full charge, should get you around 35km of electric-only driving, but if you head out on the motorway a lot, you’ll run the battery down very quickly and then fuel consumption will hover at around the 30mpg mark.

Read our reviews below:

Volvo XC40 reviews

Mitsubishi Outlander reviews

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Potentially, yes, as sometimes disconnecting the battery can cause a modern car to go into a total re-set, wiping any stored information. I think you have two options: one, buy a trickle-charger (available from any good motor factors) that will keep the battery topped up without disconnecting it, and two, have a word with the local Mercedes garage in Spain, who may be able to help you with the issue. Worth doing that second one either way.

Expert answer

Hi Anne Marie,

Stop-start systems on cars will stop working for a variety of reasons, some of them outside your control, but if you think your SEAT still has a problem after looking through this list of possibilities, best bet is to get the car along to your nearest SEAT dealer to check it out:

- Ambient temperature too cold
- Ambient temperature too hot (unlikely in Ireland!)
- Battery in poor condition
- Driver's seat belt usually must be on
- Driver's door and bonnet usually must be closed
- Engine temperature is too low
- Climate control settings may force the engine to stay on

Hope that's of some help. This question by an Audi owner has proven very popular and is mostly applicable to your car too.

Expert answer

Hi Lucy,

It's always difficult to analyse an issue like that from afar, but it is likely to be a problem with either the charging circuit (battery or alternator, basically) or maybe the mass air flow meter. All of these things could be affected by lower than usual temperatures, but if working properly they should still not fail.

Best advice I can give is to get your car to a good mechanic if it does this again.

Expert answer

Hi Robert,

It's best not to leave the ignition fully on for long periods of time, but almost all cars/vans have an 'Accessory' setting on the ignition that allows you listen to the radio without actually turning the key all the way to 'ignition'. A radio uses very little battery power so we wouldn't worry about that so long as your battery is in good working order.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

The advantage of a hybrid (as opposed to a plugin hybrid) is that you can, theoretically, use a smaller petrol engine, running on the fuel-saving (but power-sapping) Atkinson combustion cycle, and use an electric motor, fed with power by an on-board battery pack that’s charged by both the engine and regenerative braking, to fill in the gaps and holes in the power delivery.

It’s a relatively more simple system than a plugin hybrid, and has the convenience advantage that you don’t actually have to plug it in. Up until quite recently, such hybrids tended to be very thirsty unless driven in a very specific way, and were especially poor in both performance and economy terms on long motorway journeys. Recent improvements in software and battery design (and Toyota is at the cutting edge here) mean that hybrids are now comparable with diesel cars when it comes to overall economy, and much better in town traffic. They’re generally much better for harmful emissions such as nitrogen oxide as well.

Expert answer

Hi Eugene,

The new i3’s battery is rated at 20kWh so 20x18c gives you a cost of €3.60 for a from-flat-to-full charge. That should be good for at least 200km, or about 1.8c per kilometre driven.

Expert answer

Hi Michael,

I would expect to see little to no change in the hybrid subvention in the coming budget. Although there will be some pressure to incentivise low-emissions cars that aren’t diesel, the focus will probably be more on higher incentives for battery-electric cars, and possible plugin hybrids, and some changes to the reclaiming of VAT on petrol for company users. The Department of Finance will be well aware that there is a huge number of new hybrid cars due for launch, and they won’t want to risk a fall-off in revenue by increasing the subvention, so I think, at this point, it’s unlikely to change very much.

Expert answer

Hi again Michael, 

Our answer on your other question is relevant here too: I would expect to see little to no change in the hybrid subvention in the coming budget. Although there will be some pressure to incentivise low-emissions cars that aren’t diesel, the focus will probably be more on higher incentives for battery-electric cars, and possible plugin hybrids, and some changes to the reclaiming of VAT on petrol for company users. The Department of Finance will be well aware that there is a huge number of new hybrid cars due for launch, and they won’t want to risk a fall-off in revenue by increasing the subvention, so I think, at this point, it’s unlikely to change very much.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

It's not easy to assess the damage from afar I'm afraid, so I'd suggest getting a good autoelectrician or mechanic out to have a look. It's possible that the ECU (engine control unit) has been damaged, but I'd also hope that has protection against such things built into it. Most likely there are fuses blown somewhere along the line. As I said, get someone to look at it for you and hope nothing expensive has been damaged.

Expert answer

Hi David,

Very hard to assess such a thing from afar, but certainly sounds like a flat battery to us. Try to charge yours up or get a 'jump' from someone else. If no luck then best bet is to get a good mechanic or auto electrician out to have a look.

Best of luck

Expert answer

Hi David,

Yes, you could just about do 48km each way in an electric car, certainly in the Ioniq and just about in the 30kWh Nissan Leaf, although it would be hugely helpful if there could be some way of charging up at work. A Renault Zoe might do the trick too.

Hyundai asks for a minimum €5,000-odd deposit on a new Ioniq, and the repayments are quite steep so that one might be out of the question, although they come down to around €360 if you can put a €10,000 deposit down. A basic Nissan Leaf, with €6,762 down, will cost you just €264 a month, which might leave enough wriggle room to go for the bigger battery, and Nissan has some tempting free insurance offers on at the moment, while Renault asks just €179 a month for a Zoe, but the battery rental is extra and it comes with some quite tight mileage stipulations.

The other, possibly better, option would be to go half-electric. Toyota can put you into a Prius or an Auris Hybrid for as little as €199 to €263 a month (again, depending on deposits etc.) or you can get the rather impressive new Kia Niro for €353 a month with a €9,000 deposit. All of those should average as much as 60mpg, which would put a big dent in your fuel costs.

Read our relevant reviews here to help you choose:

Kia Niro review

Hyundai Ioniq Electric review

Nissan Leaf review

Renault Zoe review

Toyota Prius review

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

The stories about jump-starting a car frying its 'delicate' electronics is absolute garbage. As long as you connect the two batteries together correctly (or, as you point out, a jump-start pack) then you should be fine. Not everything on the internet is true, remember...

Expert answer

Hi Ignacio,

There are two hybrids that are far cheaper than anything else, but we have to mention both as they’re slightly different in the way their hybrid systems work. The cheapest full hybrid is the Toyota Yaris Hybrid, which starts at €19,250 and which has impressively low CO₂ emissions of just 75g/km.

Toyota has also recently updated the Yaris Hybrid so that it’s much nicer to drive than it used to be. The other is the slightly cheaper Suzuki Baleno 1.2 DualJet, which isn’t a full hybrid like the Yaris, but a mild hybrid that uses a smaller battery and clever starter/generator to take strain off the engine to help save fuel. That emits 94g/km and costs from €18,995.

Expert answer

Hi Karen,

Try 'double turning' the key in the actual door lock to see if it opens the boot. Sounds weird, I know, but works for some Fords. Failing that, bring the car to a Ford dealer for some advice. 

There are no specific tests that the boot opens in a car in the NCT, but there is mention of ensuring that the catches are operating properly, to prevent fumes etc. Technically speaking the boot would have to be opened and closed to check that. I'd guess that you may get away with it, but there's a chance you won't as well.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Neil,

Generally a car has to be driven on to the forecourt, and be taxed and insured, to get a scrappage deal, but as this isn't government-backed scrappage and is really just a dealer promotion, there may be some wiggle room. Try dropping in a new battery (they're not expensive) and see if that works and if not have a word with the salesman who gave you the deal and see what he says. 

Expert answer

Hi John,

Yes, I'd say it's worth getting the bigger battery. It perhaps doesn't make quite as much of a difference as you'd think but it keeps the range anxiety at bay for a while longer on main roads and around town you'd probably only have to charge up once or twice a week, thanks to excellent regenerative braking. 

Read our Nissan Leaf 30kWh review here

Expert answer

Hi Donal,

Short answer – no. That’s partially down to the fact that such in-depth comparisons have to take into account the type of mileage you do, the electricity tariff you’re on and more. The best I can suggest is that you have a good long look through our various electric car reviews and then use the cost calculators on both the ESB and SEAI websites to further refine your research:

BMW i3 review

Mercedes-Benz B-Class Electric

Nissan Leaf review

Renault Zoe review

Tesla Model S review

Volkswagen e-up! review

Volkswagen e-Golf review 

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

Yes, and no. And a bit yes. It still depends on your lifestyle and driving habits. Lots of short journeys, mostly around town? Don't mind taking the time to plan long journeys carefully and be prepared to take breaks for charge ups?

Things are getting dramatically better though. Nissan has just updated the Leaf with a new 30kwh battery (read our review of it here) that extends its range to around 250km, which is a lot more useful, and if you're suitably loaded a Tesla Model S can go for 500km between charges.

If you're not quite ready to take the full electric car plunge, how about a plugin hybrid? Short hops under electric power with a petrol engine for longer journeys. Try the Volkswagen Golf GTE, Audi A3 e-tron, Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV or a Volvo XC90 T8.

However, if you're looking for a second hand car, your options with electric power are severely limited, as sales have been slow so far.

Expert answer

Hi Christy,

First simple thing to try is to disconnect the battery for a few hours. If you still have the issue then bring the car to a decent mechanic for a check. It's likely they'll have to plug it into a diagnostic machine to reset the ECU.

Expert answer

Hi Karen,

You've not mentioned the engine size, but assuming it's either the 1.8- or 2.2-litre TDCi diesel then the timing belt should be changed every 125,000 miles (just over 200,000km) or every 10 years.

Expert answer

Hi Dileep,

The battery is in the boot.

We asked Toyota about using the spare wheel area for an LPG tank, but it declined to comment, suggesting that to modify the Prius in that way would invalidate its warranty.

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

If it won't turn over at all it sounds like the battery is flat (it takes a lot more charge to turn the engine than to light up the dashboard) or the starting motor has stopped working. As you mentioned slow degradation I'd suspect the battery, and perhaps the alternator isn't working to full efficiency. Best bet is to get a good mechanic or auto electrician to sort it out.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

We’ve been on to Opel Ireland about this and they suggest that the best thing to do is to visit your local dealer who will be able to troubleshoot the problem for you.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

This is a difficult thing to assess from afar I'm afraid so you're going to have to get a good mechanic to look at it. Assuming the starting motor isn't turning, it could be an issue with the wiring (bad earth) or with the starter itself, or even an issue with the key being used - it must be correctly coded to the car.

Expert answer

Hi Terry,

It's very difficult to assess such an issue from afar I'm afraid. Is the engine turning over (i.e. the starting motor is fine)? Is there fuel in the tank? Is the fuel pump in the tank working? Is there spark? Has a sensor failed and there's an electronic problem?

You'll have to bring the car to a mechanic I'm afraid. Best of luck with it.

Expert answer

Hi Niall,

Probably around €8k retail or €6,500 - €7,000 as a trade-in.

Expert answer

Hi Shayne,

Electrics, electrics, electrics. The W211 was full of electrical and electronic toys and all of them are suspect. Mercedes was going through an especially poor stage in its history at this point and the W211 suffered more than most models. Anything with a wire poking out of the back is a potential worry and the battery can run it self flat if the car is left standing even for just a few days.

The electronic brain that controls the brakes is also deeply troublesome often leaving the car in limp home mode. Check that the automatic gearbox picks up gears smoothly and that there are no flat spots in the engine's power delivery. Paint can often be an issue too - check for damage or flakes coming off.

Expert answer

Hi Ragnar,

Several things can cause that, so you need to take the car to an auto-electrician to ascertain which. Possibilities:

1) The battery itself needs to be replaced, but don't do that until you're sure it's none of these other things.

2) The alternator isn't charging the battery properly. Check for loose leads and/or the alternator belt itself before paying an auto-electrician to check it.

3) Something may be staying on to drain the battery when you turn the car off. It could be a light in the boot or glovebox or the alarm or stereo or something else entirely. Will need a little investigation.

Best of luck with it - let us know how you get on.

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Hi Milan,

It sounds to us like a bad earth or, surprisingly common, an incorrect bulb. Try changing that first to see if it cures the issue.

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Hi Shirley,

Generally speaking, the Micra (especially the 2002-onward model, which is probably the best Micra there's ever been) is something of a gold standard for reliability, but there are a couple of small recurring items to look for. The immobiliser system can sometimes go a bit haywire and drain the battery, the seat adjustor cables can snag, the boot and door seals occasionally leak and if you hear a knocking noise from the steering on full lock it means the front suspension is out of alignment.

Other than that, cracking little car and it should give years of solid service.

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Hi Chris,

The thing to bear in mind here is that the engine rarely has to directly power the wheels; most of the time it operates (at set optimum speeds) to turn the generator and charge the battery pack. Other than that, when it does power the front wheels it's at specific speeds in particular conditions, for which we assume it has been calibrated. The addition of a CVT may well enhance the situation, but it would add another chunk of weight to an already heavy vehicle.

Electric motors don't need a continuously varying gear ratio to operate efficiently.

You can read our drive of the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV here

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Hi Deck,

There seems to be a bit of split in S-Max ownership between those who have solidly reliable cars and those who keep suffering annoying niggles. Electrical faults are surprisingly common, and can range from knackered windscreen wipers to a fault that drains the battery over the course of a couple of days. Other have complained of some loose-fitting interior trim, especially around the doors. Keep an eye out too for clonking noises coming from the steering, stiff brake pedals or the diesel engine cutting out mysteriously.

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Hi Ernest,

Toyota previously answered a question for a reader regarding battery life as follows:

"It depends on the vehicle and how it's driven, but as long as the vehicle is in regular use and is serviced then the battery life is expected to be over 10 years. High mileage batteries can last longer than vehicles that do low mileage or are not in frequent use. Like any other battery type if it is in regular use and kept conditioned this will extend the battery life."

We can confirm that there are no known health risks from the batteries. The cost of replacing the batteries varies from model to model.

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Hi Catherine,

Not necessarily. The 1.6-litre diesel used in the C-Max is an engine used in a huge variety of cars, from the C-Max to the Focus to the Mondeo to various Citroens, Peugeots, Volvos and even the occasional MINI. This means that, by and large, it's a decent engine with good reliability prospects and millions of miles of use in a massive number of cars to reveal any bugs.

That said, there are a couple of issues to watch for and mostly it's to do with the turbocharger, which can occasionally be a weak point. Usually it's down to a failure of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, and it can be pretty easily fixed. Watch the parts prices and shop around for quotes if anything does go wrong. Alternators can give trouble too, so be suspicious of any engine or battery warning lights.

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Hi Louis,

We thought it best to send this one to Toyota's tech people as they have more experience than most. Here's what they told us:

"It depends on the vehicle and how it's driven, but as long as the vehicle is in regular use and is serviced then the battery life is expected to be over 10 years. High mileage batteries can last longer than vehicles that do low mileage or are not in frequent use. Like any other battery type if it is in regular use and kept conditioned this will extend the battery life."

Hope that's of interest

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Hi Bernadette,

I'd say between €7,000 and €8,000 on a trade-in, depending on what you're trading it in against.

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Hi Tony,

It's the electrical systems that are the E-Class's Achilles' heel. Mercedes had so many problems with the 2002-2009 model that it actually had to replace entire interiors and indeed entire cars for some irate customers. So, check everything very, very carefully and if even one little switch isn't working, walk away. If the car has had remedial work done by Mercedes, ask to see the paperwork to see exactly what was done. Check too that the automatic gearbox selects gears quickly and easily. 

The battery is prone to running flat too, if the car is left standing for a few days, and the computer that controls the brakes can go haywire too. Also check the paintwork for poor finish or flaking.

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Hi Tom,

If the stop-start system is not working ever then it's probably worth a trip to your Audi dealer to have it looked at, but bear in mind that there are plenty of conditions in which it will not operate and it may not be immediately obvious why. Here's Audi's official stance on it:

"The system is automatically activated when the ignition is switched on. If the driver doesn't want to use it, it can simply be switched off at the touch of a button.

"This is how it works: brake the car down to a standstill, shift into neutral and release the clutch. The system now switches off the engine and signals this via an indicator lamp. Depress the clutch before continuing the journey - the engine now starts automatically and the indicator lamp goes out again.

The start-stop function only works when...

• the driver's door and the bonnet are closed
• the driver is wearing a seat belt
• the vehicle has been driven at faster than 4km/h before stopping
• the vehicle is not pulling a trailer

In some cases the engine will not be switched off, for instance when...

• the engine temperature is still too low
• the difference between the interior temperature and the temperature selected via the air conditioning system is still too great
• the outside temperature is very high or very low
• the windscreen is being de-iced
• the optional parking aid or the optional park assist is activated
• the battery charge is too low
• the steering wheel is at a sharp angle or is being turned
• reverse gear is engaged
• the road is steep

The engine is started automatically by the system when...

• the vehicle rolls forward
• the windscreen is being de-iced
• there is a large difference between the interior temperature and the temperature selected via the air conditioning system
• the brake pedal has been depressed several times in succession
• the battery charge is too low

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Hi Alan,

Electric Ireland charges a standard 19.28 cent per kWh as of Jan 20th 2014, according to moneyguideireland.ie. Other suppliers charge more or less the same although there can be a variation of up to 3c per kWh. 

In terms of what is charged to charge an electric car, the energy companies make no distinction. The plug points are downstream of your electricity meter so it's counted as the same juice that goes into your fridge, dishwasher or vacuum cleaner.

The total amount of tax charged on your kWh amounts to about 11 per cent, including both VAT and Carbon Tax, according to Sustainable Energy Ireland. 

So, why is this so much lower in tax terms than the 50-odd per cent levied by various charges on pump fuel? Simple: expediency. On the one hand, the Government must be seen to be encouraging the use and development of electric motoring. On the other, there is currently no simple and reliable way to distinguish between electricity being pumped into your car's batteries and what's being used to light, heat and wash.

That said, you can sadly and safely expect that to change, rapidly, if electric car sales ever take off in a big way. The Government has been very careful and canny about making sure that improving vehicle economy hasn't eroded it's annual €1 billion+ tax take from petrol and diesel sales, so if battery cars start eating significantly into that, expect some form of battery levy or electron tax to be enabled tout suite.

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Hi Angela,

Sounds to us like a dead battery. It might come back to life if 'jump-started' and then driven for a while, but it's possible that it needs to be replaced completely.

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Hi Aidan,

It sounds to me as if the second key fob has lost its pairing with the ignition system Your best bet is to bring it into a Ford dealer to reprogram. 

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Hi Anne,

It's impossible to diagnose such an issue from afar accurately, but known issues with that Mondeo include:

- Water in the fuel filter or tank (replace the fuel filter to check)

- Poor earth connection under the battery (check the physical connection for rust, etc)

- Fuel injectors out of calibration (requires reprogramming, usually at a dealer)

Another possibility is that the dual-mass flywheel has broken up and needs replacing.

I'd recommend you get the car along to a good mechanic to diagnose it properly.

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Hi Ian,

Ah, a car close to my particular heart. I owned one for several years and can happily report that it never gave a day's trouble. 

That said, watch for issues with the brake servo, the fuel pump and the alternator. And the plastics in the cabin are quite fragile and easily-marked, so a perfectly healthy car can look surprisingly tired inside.

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Hi John,

Yes, but with one small caveat. The Prius has always been one of Toyota's best, and indeed best-built cars. It's essentially a flagship model, particularly for Toyota's eco-friendly ambitions. There have been a few recalls (for malfunctioning brake lights, airbags, steering and brake issues, as well as the infamous sticky-throttle-pedal one), but generally Prius are solidly reliable and there have thus far been no reports of fading or failing battery performance. We've heard one or two reports of rust breaking out, but they're probably most likely down to unattended panel damage exposing bare metal.

The caveat? It depends how and where you drive as to whether or not it's worth buying a Prius. Yes, you'll get cheap road tax, but to get even vaguely close to Toyota's quoted 65mpg fuel economy figures, you're going to have to drive with the reticence of a trappist monk. Get anywhere in the neighbourhood of enthusiastic driving and you're going to see the fuel economy plummet, ditto for undertaking any long motorway journeys. But, if you spend most of your time in town, where the Prius' electric motor and stop-start systems can best bring their armament to bear, then the economy should pick up, and you'll have one of the most comfortable, reliable and relaxing cars in which to hustle your way through city traffic.

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Hi Eamonn,

Honda is justly famed for the reliability of its cars and you shouldn't experience any major problems. The paint on some Civics can be a bit on the thin side, which means that, where it wears, you can actually get a bit of surface rust appearing, which will need attention. Engine management system glitches can lead to a drained battery if the car is left sitting for a week or two as well. Other than that, there seem to be no other major issues. 

Compared to a Focus, you'll find the ride and handling a touch flat-footed, as Honda went with a cheaper torsion bar rear suspension, but it should compare very favourably to a Mazda or Toyota - Hondas generally feel noticeably more 'premium' than either of those brands.

Hope that helps

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Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...

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Hi Peter,

It certainly sounds like the alternator is not doing its job. Could you have disturbed the wiring from it when you fitted the fanbelt? Easiest way to check is to check the voltage across the battery terminals with a multi-meter while the engine is running. It should be well over 12V if it is charging.

Please be careful doing this though and only if you're confident working under the bonnet. If you're not, best leave a qualified mechanic or auto electrician have a look.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi Tony,

Lexus offers a five-year warranty on the battery, but a spokesperson confirmed to us that they expect the battery to last the lifetime of the vehicle.

Hope that reassures you

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Hi Tom,

Power steering aside (that's strange...) it really sounds like you might have connected the battery incorrectly or shorted the battery somehow. Have you any way to safely test the battery?

If you're not confident in finding the problem for yourself we'd really recommend you get an auto-electrician or a mechanic to take a quick look for you.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi Shane,

This is a job for a really good auto electrician to find, but we do know that some Mercs have such an issue caused by a CD changer. The only way to stop it appears to be physically unplugging it from the car! Take the car to an auto electrician and tell them that and they may find a way to install a switch for it or to fix it properly...

Hope that helps

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Hi Karl,

That car is getting on now, so it's unlikely to be perfect. 

Known issues with the 2.2-litre model include a fixable oil leak from the transmission, faulty electric adjustment for the seats (if fitted), clonking from the rear of the car when moving away from rest, unexpected battery discharge and starting issues caused by the steering column lock control module.

Otherwise it's a fairly robust car. Most of the issues above can be fixed inexpensively.

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Hi FD,

We can't see why it should unless there's something wrong with it or its alternator.

If you have a problem come back to us and we should be able to help.

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Hi Annette,

First thing to try is changing the battery in the key. Hopefully it's as simple as that!

If not, come back to us again...

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Hi John,

As discussed via email, you need to determine that a) the electric fuel pump in the tank is working and b) that fuel is getting to the engine. These are intricate jobs that only a qualified mechanic should attempt. Given that your car was rear-ended, it's highly likely that the issue is related to the fuel pump in the tank.

Failing all that get an auto-electrician to go through the relevant fuel pump relays and fuses.

Hope you get sorted.

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Hi Tom,

This is something that we have heard of before, but what we were told is that it was the radio at fault, as it switched itself on randomly and therefore drained the battery that way.

We found a UK thread on the topic

Let us contact Opel on your behalf and see if they have a solution and we will come back to you on it.

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Hi Damian,

The Scenic's problems are well documented. We're not aware of a good set of data from Irish buyers, but in the UK, the Driver Power Survey 2010 revealed that 20 percent of Scenic owners reported electrical problems and the car scored particularly poorly in terms of reliability and build quality.

It also depends on what model you are talking about. Look out for the following:

1999 - 2003 model: leaky sunroofs, broken wiper motors, automatic gearbox problems and oil leaks.

2003 - 2009 model: ignition coil, auxiliary belt tensioner, timing belt, alternator, fuel filter, crankshaft sensor, oil leaks, idler pulley, water pump, thermostat, catalytic converter, door seal and sunroof leaks, problems with the key card and battery faults.

We're not saying that every version will have all or any of those problems, but these have been reported by previous owners.