Expert answer

Hi Tony,

It's the electrical systems that are the E-Class's Achilles' heel. Mercedes had so many problems with the 2002-2009 model that it actually had to replace entire interiors and indeed entire cars for some irate customers. So, check everything very, very carefully and if even one little switch isn't working, walk away. If the car has had remedial work done by Mercedes, ask to see the paperwork to see exactly what was done. Check too that the automatic gearbox selects gears quickly and easily. 

The battery is prone to running flat too, if the car is left standing for a few days, and the computer that controls the brakes can go haywire too. Also check the paintwork for poor finish or flaking.

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Hi Tom,

If the stop-start system is not working ever then it's probably worth a trip to your Audi dealer to have it looked at, but bear in mind that there are plenty of conditions in which it will not operate and it may not be immediately obvious why. Here's Audi's official stance on it:

"The system is automatically activated when the ignition is switched on. If the driver doesn't want to use it, it can simply be switched off at the touch of a button.

"This is how it works: brake the car down to a standstill, shift into neutral and release the clutch. The system now switches off the engine and signals this via an indicator lamp. Depress the clutch before continuing the journey - the engine now starts automatically and the indicator lamp goes out again.

The start-stop function only works when...

• the driver's door and the bonnet are closed
• the driver is wearing a seat belt
• the vehicle has been driven at faster than 4km/h before stopping
• the vehicle is not pulling a trailer

In some cases the engine will not be switched off, for instance when...

• the engine temperature is still too low
• the difference between the interior temperature and the temperature selected via the air conditioning system is still too great
• the outside temperature is very high or very low
• the windscreen is being de-iced
• the optional parking aid or the optional park assist is activated
• the battery charge is too low
• the steering wheel is at a sharp angle or is being turned
• reverse gear is engaged
• the road is steep

The engine is started automatically by the system when...

• the vehicle rolls forward
• the windscreen is being de-iced
• there is a large difference between the interior temperature and the temperature selected via the air conditioning system
• the brake pedal has been depressed several times in succession
• the battery charge is too low

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Hi Alan,

Electric Ireland charges a standard 19.28 cent per kWh as of Jan 20th 2014, according to moneyguideireland.ie. Other suppliers charge more or less the same although there can be a variation of up to 3c per kWh. 

In terms of what is charged to charge an electric car, the energy companies make no distinction. The plug points are downstream of your electricity meter so it's counted as the same juice that goes into your fridge, dishwasher or vacuum cleaner.

The total amount of tax charged on your kWh amounts to about 11 per cent, including both VAT and Carbon Tax, according to Sustainable Energy Ireland. 

So, why is this so much lower in tax terms than the 50-odd per cent levied by various charges on pump fuel? Simple: expediency. On the one hand, the Government must be seen to be encouraging the use and development of electric motoring. On the other, there is currently no simple and reliable way to distinguish between electricity being pumped into your car's batteries and what's being used to light, heat and wash.

That said, you can sadly and safely expect that to change, rapidly, if electric car sales ever take off in a big way. The Government has been very careful and canny about making sure that improving vehicle economy hasn't eroded it's annual €1 billion+ tax take from petrol and diesel sales, so if battery cars start eating significantly into that, expect some form of battery levy or electron tax to be enabled tout suite.

Expert answer

Hi Angela,

Sounds to us like a dead battery. It might come back to life if 'jump-started' and then driven for a while, but it's possible that it needs to be replaced completely.

Expert answer

Hi Aidan,

It sounds to me as if the second key fob has lost its pairing with the ignition system Your best bet is to bring it into a Ford dealer to reprogram. 

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Hi Anne,

It's impossible to diagnose such an issue from afar accurately, but known issues with that Mondeo include:

- Water in the fuel filter or tank (replace the fuel filter to check)

- Poor earth connection under the battery (check the physical connection for rust, etc)

- Fuel injectors out of calibration (requires reprogramming, usually at a dealer)

Another possibility is that the dual-mass flywheel has broken up and needs replacing.

I'd recommend you get the car along to a good mechanic to diagnose it properly.

Expert answer

Hi Ian,

Ah, a car close to my particular heart. I owned one for several years and can happily report that it never gave a day's trouble. 

That said, watch for issues with the brake servo, the fuel pump and the alternator. And the plastics in the cabin are quite fragile and easily-marked, so a perfectly healthy car can look surprisingly tired inside.

Expert answer

Hi John,

Yes, but with one small caveat. The Prius has always been one of Toyota's best, and indeed best-built cars. It's essentially a flagship model, particularly for Toyota's eco-friendly ambitions. There have been a few recalls (for malfunctioning brake lights, airbags, steering and brake issues, as well as the infamous sticky-throttle-pedal one), but generally Prius are solidly reliable and there have thus far been no reports of fading or failing battery performance. We've heard one or two reports of rust breaking out, but they're probably most likely down to unattended panel damage exposing bare metal.

The caveat? It depends how and where you drive as to whether or not it's worth buying a Prius. Yes, you'll get cheap road tax, but to get even vaguely close to Toyota's quoted 65mpg fuel economy figures, you're going to have to drive with the reticence of a trappist monk. Get anywhere in the neighbourhood of enthusiastic driving and you're going to see the fuel economy plummet, ditto for undertaking any long motorway journeys. But, if you spend most of your time in town, where the Prius' electric motor and stop-start systems can best bring their armament to bear, then the economy should pick up, and you'll have one of the most comfortable, reliable and relaxing cars in which to hustle your way through city traffic.

Expert answer

Hi Eamonn,

Honda is justly famed for the reliability of its cars and you shouldn't experience any major problems. The paint on some Civics can be a bit on the thin side, which means that, where it wears, you can actually get a bit of surface rust appearing, which will need attention. Engine management system glitches can lead to a drained battery if the car is left sitting for a week or two as well. Other than that, there seem to be no other major issues. 

Compared to a Focus, you'll find the ride and handling a touch flat-footed, as Honda went with a cheaper torsion bar rear suspension, but it should compare very favourably to a Mazda or Toyota - Hondas generally feel noticeably more 'premium' than either of those brands.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...