Expert answer

Hi Tony,

The CX-80's suspension was a further development of that in the CX-60 and improvements were made before the larger car was launched, so we have no issue with that car at all. Further changes are coming to the CX-60 later this year.

As with all cars, we'd highly recommend sticking to smaller wheel options, as that means more tyre sidewall to better absorb bumps and poor road surfaces.

Expert answer

Hi Phil,

On the Irish market, the M Sport model rides on 18-inch alloy wheels while the Sport version is on 17-inch rims with higher-profile tyres. As standard they both get the same suspension, but the tyres will make the M Sport model feel 'firmer' on the road for sure. 

Expert answer

Hi Kevin,

In our time with that car back in 2022 (assuming you mean the regular hybrid, not the plug-in model), we averaged about 6.2 litres/100km so the car is clearly capable of better. 

Obviously fuel consumption depends on many factors, including driving style, where and how fast you are driving and even how well-maintained the engine is. Make sure you're not carrying around any unnecessary weight in the car, remember that roof/bike racks affect the consumption and check your tyre pressures. 

Other than all that, check how clean the air filter is. 

Expert answer

Hi Martin,

I wouldn't say the market is being flooded with these cars - demand is still far outstripping supply. 

For the most part, these cars represent good value, but go into the deal with your eyes open. If at all possible, get someone in the know to take a detailed look around the car you're looking at, to make sure it's in good condition and that it's identical to a European-market model. 

I'd insist that the car was serviced on Irish soil before taking delivery, and make sure the tyres are ok as well, as these cars could have spent quite a bit of time at sea and at docks here in Japan.

Other than that, check out your insurance before you commit to buying, as insurers can be a little odd about imports at times. 

Expert answer

Hi John Paul,

You’re dead right in that four-wheel-drive EVs are currently rather expensive — the best value ones around at the moment are the Volkswagen ID.4 GTX, the Skoda Enyaq Sportline iV 80x and the Tesla Model 3 Long Range, all of which are in the region of €57,000 to €59.000.  Which is quite a lot of money, even if all three are excellent cars.

If you want to go front-wheel drive, but keep the SUV body shape, then there are still some very good options all the same. The Kia e-Niro, the Kia e-Soul and the Hyundai Kona Electric all share the same battery, electric motor and front-wheel-drive platform, and all are excellent cars. The Niro is fractionally the more practical, the Soul arguably the best to drive and the Kona a pretty good compromise between the two.

Or you could try the MG ZS if you want something a bit cheaper, but bear in mind that a new, longer-range model is coming in the new year that will bump up its price from €28,995 to €31,000. 

Mind you, you’ve said you’re happy to put winter tyres on, and this should really bring the various rear-wheel-drive models back into play. With the right tyres, and given the hefty two-tonne weight of larger models such as the ID.4 and Enyaq, you’re unlikely to experience any major traction issues, so don’t count those models out. 

Expert answer

Hi Seamus,

This is obviously a tricky decision, and we wish your wife all the best in coping with this. When it comes to ride quality, the most important factors are the stiffness, overall, of the suspension, the size of the wheels, and the sidewall depth of the tyres. Basically, smaller wheels and normal suspension is the rule of thumb if you’re trying to get a car with a soft ride quality.

SUVs are actually generally quite bad for ride quality. That sounds counter-intuitive, because of course they’re taller and have longer-travel suspension, but the problem is that the springs and dampers have to be stiffened up to prevent the higher centre of gravity from inducing too much body roll. I would therefore suggest that keeping away from SUVs would be a good bet.

That said, the Subaru Forester you’ve mentioned below does indeed have a soft ride quality, again as long as you avoid the larger alloy wheel options. Ditto the smaller Subaru XV, which is helpfully lower to the ground and can get away with slightly softer suspension rates. Citroen, of course, is famed for having pillowy-soft ride quality, and the current C5 Aircross is pretty soft and springy, and has great seats into the bargain. You should definitely look at a Toyota Camry as well (very soft, and again with great seats) and the Skoda Superb.

Avoid anything that has a sporty designation (S line, R-Line, M Sport etc) as that will almost automatically have stiffer springs and bigger wheels.

Hope that helps. Below are links to our reviews of the cars mentioned above:

Subaru Forester reviews

Citroen C5 Aircross reviews

Subaru XV reviews

Toyota Camry reviews

Skoda Superb reviews

Expert answer

Hi Sarah,

This shouldn't be anything to worry about and is not unusual. The only thing to watch for is that the NCT centre may draw your attention to their age when they are six years old, if they've not worn out by then, so from that point of view it's better for you to have more recently manufactured tyres, but there should be no safety issue with these.

Expert answer

Hi Tony,

It will depend on the spec of your Yeti, and the year of production. Many Yetis came only with a puncture repair and inflate kit as standard. Some came with a space-saver wheel (actually using a conventional tyre, but smaller and narrower than the standard Yeti wheel, meaning that it was restricted on speed, but not on distance travelled), while a full-size spare was a cost option, and greatly reduced boot space. If it has one, it'll be accessible inside the boot, under the floor.

Expert answer

Hi Brendan,

It's a tough situation for you. We hope you have family and friends to keep in touch with and make sure all your needs are met.

Don't worry about your car. If it's not doing any mileage, then there's no worry about the DPF (diesel particulate filter) or other major diesel components clogging up from low-mileage, low-temperature use. Even if you want to start up your car every few days and let it run for 15- to 20 minutes to keep the battery charged up, that won't have a major effect, not so long as, when we are free to drive where we want again, you take it for a good long run at some decent motorway speeds.

Other than that, keep an eye on the tyre pressures and fluid levels, watching out for leaks under the car. Also, don't park under a tree if you can help it, as it could lead to paint corrosion. 

Expert answer

Hi Andy,

That's a tricky one to analyse from afar, but we do know that an issue can arise from the electric power steering motor that may lead to strange sensations through the wheel. Best to have it checked by a good mechanic as soon as possible.

Expert answer

Hi Barry,

I think this sounds more like a tyre issue than anything else. Is there a possibility that the car is on cheap, aftermarket, tyres? If so, get them replaced with a set of something decent — Michelins or Bridgestones. Going for xDrive would help, of course, as the extra bit of traction is never a bad thing, but it does add (slightly) to your running costs because of the weight and the extra frictional losses.

Expert answer

Hi F D,

Sounds to me like the Audi garage had it right. The rear callipers could be binding slightly, or perhaps even the parking brake mechanism is sticking. Very limited use in any car can do that. If you know you're not going to be using it for a long time, consider parking it up without using the parking brake (if safe and feasible). Leave the car in gear and place something in front of the tyres for extra safety.

Expert answer

Hi Renate,

Well, there’s no legal requirement to change the valves, but it’s such a simple and cheap process to do so, one would wonder what other corners were cut? Was your car’s tyre pressure monitor reset as well, assuming it has one? Were the wheels properly balanced? I’d go back and ask a few tough questions. 

Expert answer

Hi Sally,

That’ll vary from lease to lease. Generally speaking, if it’s being leased by a company and they’re giving you use of the car as a company vehicle, they’ll pay the running costs, usually minus fuel. If it’s a case of you being given a car-buying budget as part of a job package, generally you’ll pay for all that stuff, and if you’re buying a car for yourself on a PCP finance deal (which is effectively a personal lease) you cover them too.

There are always differences and details, though, and car makers (Volvo especially) are starting to move towards a mobile-phone style system whereby you pay one monthly fee that covers everything, and change and upgrade your car at regular intervals.

Expert answer

Hi Claire,

The process is different in different cars. Some have a button on the centre console that you hold down. Others have an option within the on-board computer system of the car that you'll have to go digging for.

Expert answer

Hi Anthony,

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

In very simple terms, the jack must be able to take at least half the car's weight. Actually, to be safe, you'd have to say a little more than half, just in case there is any variance between passenger and driver side. Every car has its own weight distribution and centre of gravity, but for the purposes of this, imagine a car with its weight perfectly distributed. Position the jack in the middle of the side of the car and jack it up. When viewed from the front or back, the centre of gravity moves to the side of the car not being jacked up, so as the car goes up, the jack is actually under less strain than when it started.

With all of these things, we would recommend building in a safety factor, of course, and use a fixed stand to hold the car up before you go underneath it.

Expert answer

Hi Afeez,

I’m assuming that’s a 1.6 HDI diesel model? If so you need to watch for excessive black smoke from the exhaust, which could indicate a blown turbo. Check too to see if the diesel particulate filter is working properly — if it’s a low-mileage car (and that is quite low miles) then it may not have been driven regularly enough to keep the filter clean, and they’re expensive to fix and clean. If it has air conditioning then that needs specific servicing so check that has been done and, if you notice that the car pulls to the left at higher speed, then it might need new front tyres. Other than that check that all switches and buttons are working properly, and that the car has a full and complete service history.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

I spoke to someone from Kia about this, as it's news to me, too, but apparently, since last year, all suppliers of new tyres must charge this per-tyre recycling fee. That applies to the car dealers as much as it does the tyre depots. This fee is collected by the dealers, sent to the distributors and then paid to Repak. There's zero profit in it and no choice in the matter.

Expert answer

Hi Allan,

Orthopaedic seat covers can help, right enough, but it can be a bit of a process of trial and error, and I’d say the best bet in that instance is to get some advice from your doctor, or your back specialist if you have one. As for cars with the best ride quality, the Yaris is pretty good in that respect (although the heavier hybrid version is perhaps less good), but the best bet is, whatever car you’re going to buy, make sure you go for the smallest possible wheel option, with the largest possible tyre sidewall profile. It’s the secret to a comfy ride. 

Expert answer

Hi Anne Marie,

Stop-start systems on cars will stop working for a variety of reasons, some of them outside your control, but if you think your SEAT still has a problem after looking through this list of possibilities, best bet is to get the car along to your nearest SEAT dealer to check it out:

- Ambient temperature too cold
- Ambient temperature too hot (unlikely in Ireland!)
- Battery in poor condition
- Driver's seat belt usually must be on
- Driver's door and bonnet usually must be closed
- Engine temperature is too low
- Climate control settings may force the engine to stay on

Hope that's of some help. This question by an Audi owner has proven very popular and is mostly applicable to your car too.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

I agree to a certain extent with this, but not completely. Rear-wheel-drive cars with their engines up front (as with your Mercedes) really struggle with traction in icy conditions, but front-wheel-drive cars are no better when it comes to braking and turning in the same conditions so if such a law was to be brought it, it really should apply to all cars, as winter tyres provide much more grip whether you're accelerating, braking or turning.

However, despite the crazy week we've had here in Ireland with snow and ice, long term weather stats clearly show that we don't get enough cold weather in most parts of Ireland (i.e. the temperature below seven degrees C) to warrant forcing everyone to change to winter tyres. Above seven degrees C, winter tyres are not as good as all-weather/summer tyres and they wear much quicker.

The Irish motorist already feels hard done by in terms of taxation and running costs so I don't think any government would bring this in here, but to be honest, I don't think they should, either. It really should be up to the individual. And that's coming from someone that has expereinced how brilliant winter tyres can be. Other opinions area available...

Expert answer

Hi Jane,

I would say that if you're driving as you describe then sDrive is fine, as not only is it entirely capable it's also much better from a point of view of running costs. For normal on-road driving it's perfectly good enough, and if you're worried about winter conditions then consider fitting some winter or all-season tyres. 

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

If the car has a full service history and is in good condition, then in general we’d say there’s nothing much to worry about. At 125,000km it’s well within the lifetime of all its major components, and if the history is solid then so should be the car. Just make sure that it has had a timing belt replacement, or at least an inspection of the timing belt.

Expert answer

Hi Cyril,

The A4’s a nice car, very comfortable and refined, but it’s not as roomy as the Passat. Don’t go for the 120hp, as it’s just underpowered. As for reliability and problems, it’s a solid car, but you need to keep an eye on the diesel particulate filter (DPF), water leaks from the air conditioning unit, glove box lids that don’t fit properly and worn seatbelt sockets. Check for signs of uneven tyre wear, and noisy suspension is probably the anti-roll bar drop links. No other major problems to report.

Expert answer

Hi William,

There doesn't seem to be a history of consistent problems with the F10 5 Series rear suspension. The only recurrent problems that we have noted are leaking damper issues. A broken spring can just be 'one of those things' and given the state of many Irish roads, perhaps it's not too much of a surprise. 

Expert answer

Hi Inderjeet,

The simplest solution is just to go for a 16-inch version of the same 175-section tyre. It’s best not to muck around with tyre sizes too much, as they’re designed to offer the best performance for that model in that size. 

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

It depends on the wheels, but assuming you have a 175/65 14-inch tyre, then you need 31psi of pressure on the front tyres and 26psi for the rears.

Expert answer

Hi Clare,

Well, if I gave the impression that I wasn’t too impressed, then that’s not quite right as we haven’t yet driven a new Citroen model equipped with the new Advanced Comfort suspension system. It won’t go into production until next year (2017). We have just driven the new Citroen C3, which has a very impressive ride quality on standard springs and dampers, so the omens for the new system are good.

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

Well, it’s impossible for us to comment on an individual car that we haven’t seen and don’t know the history of. Toyotas tend to be very reliable and well made, and the Avensis especially so, but no car is entirely without its issues and much depends on maintenance, care and attention to detail. Have you tried contacting your Toyota dealer? Did the problems occur within the original warranty period? Does the car have a full and complete service history?

Expert answer

Hi Mick,

Well, given the list of priorities you’ve given me, either the Octavia or the i40 would seem ideal, although it’s the Hyundai that will hold on to its warranty longer, as it has a five-year warranty compared to the Skoda’s three-year one. The Skoda is by a very slim margin the nicer of the two to drive though, so you’ll need to bear that in mind. That said, the i40 is more refined overall (not to mention being a bigger car, with more space in inside), so it’s really a matter of deciding which of your priorities gets top billing.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Depending on the nature of the puncture the tyre may be repaired at the roadside with a temporary fix. If it is in or near the centre of the tyre it can be plugged and then re-inflated or if it is a small hole there are various types of sealant foam that can also do the job. These are pumped into the tyre via the air valve and quickly seal the hole. Either of these measures are only designed to be temporary fixes though and enough to get you back home or to the nearest garage. Both of these types of repair kit are available to buy in most good bike shops and are small enough to be carried in a case or backpack when riding.

Punctures in the sidewall or closer to the edge of the tyre can be much harder to temporarily repair. 

Expert answer

Hi Alan,

All are, in general, pretty solidly reliable cars as you would expect,  but the issues come with the added weight and complexity of those folding hard-tops. All three can suffer roof failure (often at the point of being half way up or down) and all three suffer equally from increased tyre and suspension wear relative to their hatchback cousins, not to mention higher fuel consumption. None, to be honest, are especially pleasant to drive.

Of the three, I’d say the Eos is the best built, the Focus by a slim margin the best to drive and the Astra fractionally the roomier in the back seat. As an alternative, what about an Audi A4 Cabriolet? You’d have to go for an older one to match the price, but it’s a better car and a better convertible than any of these. Alternatively, if you don’t need the back seats, get a Mazda MX-5 – literally the only small convertible that’s actually worth buying.

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

A hugely underrated car, the S80. Big, comfy and mostly very reliable. As ever with something that started out in life as an expensive model, don’t buy anything without a full service history and check carefully for any electrical gremlins. They’re also sensitive to knocked-about suspension, so check the tyres carefully for any uneven wear and tear. Other than that, reliability is pretty decent. The bigger diesel engines can be expensive to run, but if you go for the 1.6 diesel you’ll have a car that’s really frugal and not all that under-powered.

Expert answer

Hi Sarah,

Is this just a feeling or have you any proof, perhaps images of the car beforehand? It's possible, but highly unlikely, that the wrong shocks were fitted, reducing the height. If there has been a change in the height we'd suspect that something wrong may have been done in reassembling the suspension. Either way, you need to talk to the garage about this as soon as possible. 

Expert answer

Hi Dan,

Expert answer

Hi Gearoidin,

The NCT checks for condition and tread depth mostly and will fail on those items and if the tyre is not the right specification for the car. There is a note in the NCT manual, however, for the tester to advise the owner if the tyres are more than six years old. Most tyre makers recommend that, even with very light use, you should not use a tyre that's more than ten years old as the internal structure starts to break down.

Expert answer

Hi Ian,

Cracking car, but yes, you do get a good bit of tyre noise, especially in the back. Take it for a good test drive on the nearest motorway or dual carriageway to see if it's too noisy for you.

Expert answer

Hi Martin,

Only around €1,500 I'm afraid. 

Expert answer

Hi Hugh,

OK, first off - well done. You obviously have sensitive driving senses. Most people probably wouldn't have noticed. Secondly, BMW's steering has gotten noticeably heavier over the years - basically as a way of adding more "sporty feeling" (inverted commas author's own) to the car as less and less real road feel is transmitted. So it's partially built in to the design of the car.

As for changing the tyres. It might help - changing the tyre, especially if you change the brand of the tyre, can have an effect on steering effort and it's possible that a switch to low rolling resistance tyres may lighten the steering a bit. But it won't make an enormous difference, and I'd seriously advise you not to change from runflats to conventional tyres - the car was designed around runflats and you could be setting yourself up for an evening on a wet hard shoulder, with no spare wheel, if you swap out the runflats.

Expert answer

Hi Irene,

Engine size means less than it used to, especially when comparing a petrol engine to a diesel one. That Hyundai will be more economical and cheaper to tax than the 1.4 petrol Golf from 2008. Saying that, if most of your driving is in town there won't be a big advantage for the diesel, but it should still use less fuel overall.

A larger car such as the i40 is likely to be a bit heavier on things like tyres, but it's newer than your Golf so shouldn't need tyres for a while. 

Hope that all helps 

Expert answer

Hi there,

Well, the 207 CC was certainly better-built than the 206 CC that preceded it, but you have to buy carefully - they're pretty heavy cars, so suspension and steering problems are common, as is high tyre wear. Electrical faults need to be watched out for too, and the roof mechanism is a constant source of angst - although you can manually wind it up or down with a wheelbrace if it gets stuck half-way, which is a common issue. 

Expert answer

Hi Aiden,

No, you're not missing anything. French cars, and big French saloons in particular, always suffer staggering depreciation and the 407 is not a car that's especially loved by the used trade. 

There's nothing much mechanically wrong with them but make sure you check that all of the electrical bits and pieces are working, and check the cabin for loose or ill-fitting pieces of trim. Then check the suspension, especially at the front, for any damage. Listen for clonking or knocking noises and check the tyres for signs of uneven wear.

Expert answer

Hi Matt,

We asked Ford for an official adjudication on this, and here is the response:

"Each vehicle/wheel has a specific offset and wheel width regardless of tyre size. The 7.5J x 18 referenced for the Kuga wheel means that that wheel is 7.5 inches in width and the S-MAX referenced is running 7J x 17 meaning the wheels originally fitted were seven inches in width. Therefore, the answer from Ford is no - we would only recommend like for like replacements."

Expert answer

Hi Elaine,

We'd suggest you up your tyre pressures all round by 2psi if you're going to be carrying that many more people, but as we don't know what type of car you have it's best to follow the manufacturer advice. There's usually a diagram showing the correct ratings either inside the fuel filler flap or on one of the front door frames - visible with the door open only.

It's not unusual for tyre fitters to recommend putting a higher pressure in your spare, but really we'd say that's too high. Stick to 40psi if it's a spare that's not easily accessible and checked often, as it will likely lose pressure over time. If, however, it's easy to get at, keep it at the right pressure and check it monthly.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Niall,

Probably around €8k retail or €6,500 - €7,000 as a trade-in.

Expert answer

Hi Josephine,

Our database shows that, if your car is fitted with 195/55 R15 V 85 sized tyres then the correct average pressure is 2.1 bar or 31 PSI. 

This information should be displayed on your car somewhere - either inside the fuel filler flap or on the door frame when you open the door. 

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Liam,

Generally speaking it is reliable, but there are a couple of things to keep an eye out for. Electrical problems can usually be traced to an engine management system fault. It can often be fixed by a software update but sometimes the whole black box will need replacing. 

Rear seat folding hinges can jam and door locks can give trouble too. Oh, and if it's an SVE model beware of tyres - they're an odd specification and can be hard to source. 

Expert answer

Hi Andy,

It's only a small difference but it could well be a reason for failure. The NCT says that having tyres of differing size or specification is a fail point.

It would be worth your while getting that odd tyre swapped out for one the same as the others. Even with that small difference in the sidewall, the way the tyre reacts and the way heat builds up in the tread is different so while the car might fee fine, its reactions in an emergency situation could be suspect.

I know it's an annoying expense, but honestly, tyres are pretty much the most important thing on the car. Better to make sure they're right. 

Expert answer

Hi Mike,

The A6 is a cracking choice - reliable, frugal, stylish and hugely comfy, but it's not as sweet to drive as the 5 Series. That said, it is more spacious and if you can track down an Avant estate you'll have one of the best looking cars around. 

If you're concerned about driving on snow and ice there are two avenues you should explore, no matter which car you go for. One is to look into fitting either winter tyres (which you'll need to swap back over to normal tyres in the spring) or all-season tyres, such as the new 'CrossClimate' one from Michelin. Better again, go on a winter driving techniques course. BMW runs one at Rally School Ireland in Monaghan and the skills you'll learn there would get you through even the worst blizzard, no matter which set of your car's wheels are driven.

Further reading:

Audi A6 review

BMW 5 Series review

Expert answer

Hi Michael,

Well, if you can't afford to insure anything bigger then a turbo's a no-go. Legally, you have to inform your insurer of any modifications made to your car, and if an increase in swept capacity is a no-go then no insurer is going to let you strap on a turbo.

A K&N filter or similar would be fine though and should readily be available for an Almera. While you're at it, why not put the turbo budget to a proper service, some high-quality oil and new tyres? All far better options for improving performance and nothing that will bother your insurance provider.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

Short version? Change them. At that kind of age, regardless of mileage, tyres start to get damaged and worn out. Get some new ones.

Expert answer

Hi Aine,

CLA for my money. The GLA is nice, and obviously a bit more practical, but it doesn't feel special enough to justify the price tag. 

The CLA on the other hand looks terrific and is really sweet to drive. The small diesel engine is fine - not the quickest ever or anything but it'll do and a realistic 65mpg will make up for any straight-line deficiencies.

One thing - make sure you spec the smallest wheels and the tyres with the deepest possible sidewalls. The CLA rides pretty hard and big wheels with low profile tyres make it really uncomfortable.

Further reading:

Review of the Mercedes-Benz CLA (on Irish roads)

Review of the Mercedes-Benz GLA (on Irish roads)

Expert answer

Hi Harry,

It's very difficult to assess such a thing remotely, but here are a few things to check:

1 - Are you carrying extra weight in the boot?

2 - Check your tyre pressures, condition and alignment - makes a big difference.

3 - Check the cleansiness of your air filter. Very important.

4 - Have it serviced if it has not been in a long time.

5 - Check that none of the brakes are binding - jack up each corner in turn and with the car out of gear and the handbrake off you should be able to freely turn each wheel. If not, the brakes may be binding and need to be looked at.

6 - Only when you've exhausted the simple stuff should you look into getting the car hooked up to a diagnostic machine. Some versions of the TDI engine had problems with injectors and turbos that could lead to higher fuel consumption, but the fix is expensive.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi George,

I would tread very, very carefully indeed. The engine can be a big trouble spot with dodgy turbos and inconsistent power delivery. Watch for  excessive smoke (black or white), check the oil carefully and if it shows even the slightest sign of overheating, head for the exit.

Clutches can go pretty easily, so make sure the gearshift is working alright, and everything electrical is to be assumed broken until proven otherwise. They eat tyres too, and uneven wear is a sign of impending suspension doom. Also, a lot of Espaces tend to get used as ersatz delivery vans when they get past a certain age and price point so check carefully for signs of wear and tear in the cabin.

Basically, you should probably avoid it and track down a similar vintage Volkswagen Sharan or Hyundai Trajet instead.

Expert answer

Hi Justin,

We checked with the experts at Michelin for this one. According to them, tyres don't really have a use-by date as such, but neither should you just be blasé about them because their overall mileage is low. Tyres can be damaged or worn by a number of factors, not just how many miles you've done. After five years, Michelin suggests you should have your tyres thoroughly inspected once a year, and after ten years replace them no matter what the condition or depth of tread.

Expert answer

Hi Martina,

There are many possible reasons for this drop off in your fuel economy. Start with the easy things - you'd be surprised how important they are.

1 - Are you carrying extra weight in the car now than you were before? Golf clubs (or bricks!) in the boot? It can have a large effect.

2 - Have you fitted a roof rack/box? Again, can have a massive effect.

3 - Check the air pressure of your tyres. This is very very important. Underinflated tyres cause extra drag, requiring more fuel. Don't over-inflate either though, as that could lead to a blow-out. Follow guidelines for the car/tyre.

4 - It's winter so you're most likely using the lights, heater and demister a lot more. Those all use fuel. In particular, make sure you turn off the rear window demister when it's not needed - it uses a lot of energy.

All the above you can do for yourself, so do and then see if things have improved. After that we would suggest that you have your car serviced if it has been a while. The air filter and/or fuel filter could be clogged and it's a good time to hook the car up to a diagnostics machine to see if there are any error codes indicating other issues.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Tony,

We asked Honda Ireland and the response was:

"The original OEM 17-inch tyre was 225/50 R17 98V. The minimum allowed by homologation is 225/50 R17 92V."

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Ken,

It's difficult to know from afar, but there are several things that will affect this - assuming you're seeing a reduction in your car's economy:

1 - Tyre pressures need to be within specification

2 - Wheel alignment must be correct

3 - Perhaps the air filter and/or fuel filter is dirty and needs replacement

4 - Are you carrying extra weight in the boot?

5 - Is the rear window demister on permanently? 

Go through all of those things, starting with those that cost nothing to check and you should find savings. If not, then get the engine are car serviced and that might help. Perhaps a brake is binding.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Denis,

Not necessarily, but it depends on the wear. Check the tread depth – if it’s below 1.6mm depth overall then the tyre is below the legal minimum and yes, you definitely need to change it. If it’s below 2.5-3mm overall, I’d think seriously about changing as tyre performance, especially under braking, tails off markedly at that point. If the depth is fine and there is no damage to the sidewall or treads, then I wouldn’t worry – tyres generally last for as long as five to even ten years with mild use.

Expert answer

Hi Ruairi,

You're expecting me to say 'everything' aren't you? 

Well, actually, 159s are pretty well built and when they do suffer from old-school Alfa flakiness, it tends to be more on a car-by-car basis. So the best trick is to talk to the previous owner. If the car gave them no major trouble, then it's probably a good 'un.

The critical check point is anything electric. Wiper motors are weak and the cruise control can freak out easily and take a good long test drive to make sure that the engine always delivers its power smoothly and consistently. If it doesn't then the ECU could be on the way out. 

Finally, if the front tyres are showing signs of uneven wear, then the front suspension is out of alignment and needs sorting.

Best of luck

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

Well, according to the official figures, you should be getting 55mpg on average. If you're not getting that, or something near it, then you need to consider a few possibilities:

Are your tyres up to the correct pressures? Has the car been serviced lately, and given an oil and filters change? Are you carrying around lots of extra weight in the car or have you got a roof rack or roof box on top?

If none of these helps, maybe you need to take a look at your own driving style. Lighter throttle openings, earlier gearshifts, a bit more anticipation - that sort of thing.

Hope that's of some help

Expert answer

Hi Justin,

Nice car, but just make sure that you're not planning lots of long motorway journeys in it as that 2.0-litre petrol engine can get a bit thirsty. Otherwise, check for electrical gremlins and make sure that the front tyres are wearing evenly - if not, the suspension could need adjusting or repair.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

By and large yes, but remember that this is a ten-year old car now, so you're going to have to find an immaculate one if you're looking for trouble-free motoring. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) has been known to give bother, so check and make sure that the engine runs smoothly and produces power properly. Mind you, the 1.4 petrol Golf was always woefully underpowered, so check also for signs that it has been ragged - floppy clutch, loose gearshift, smoky engine etc. Check the suspension too and if the tyres are unevenly worn, then the alignment is probably out. If it has electric windows and central locking (most Irish-spec 1.4 Golfs from that era won't) check to make sure they work properly too.

Expert answer

Hi Nelius,

Cracking car the original Mazda6. One of the best-to-drive saloons ever built and the good news is you're looking at mostly pros, and very few cons. The only real mechanical weak point is the clutch - we've heard of them failing at as little as 50,000km so check to make sure that the action is smooth and not too heavy and that the gear changes are crisp and quick. Any slipping or smell should set off alarm bells.

Other than that, there are a few recalls that you need to make sure were attended to (leaky fuel lines, dodgy fog lamps, brake warning light and oil seals) and it's worth checking to make sure that the suspension and steering are in good fettle and that there's a good set of high-quality tyres on the car; the better to enjoy that wonderful handling balance.

Expert answer

Hi Marcus,

No, but we can work out a rough figure for you. The 2006 320d had a quoted combined figure of 5.7 litres per 100km (about 50mpg). Now, we know that official fuel consumption figures are basically rubbish so let’s be on the pessimistic side – the urban consumption figure was 7.8 litres/100km so let’s split the difference and say 6.8 litres/100km as the halfway point. On your 80km per day, therefore, you’re going to nominally get through about 5.4 litres of fuel per day. That works out at 37.8 litres per week, which at the current average price per litre of diesel comes to €42.90 per week.

Now, that’s an estimated figure, and everything from the traffic levels, to the type of road you use to your own driving style to how much weight you’re carrying in the car to the condition of your engine and your tyres to whether you use the air conditioning or not and so many more variables will have an effect on that figure, so consider it ballpark only.

Expert answer

Hi Gordon,

Well, as with any high performance model, check first for signs of abuse. Are the wheels in good order? Do the tyres look knackered? Does the engine smoke or the clutch smell? If it seems that it has been wrecked and ruined by a former hot-shoe owner, then walk away. Aside from that, check that the gearbox (manual or auto) picks up gears crisply and cleanly, listen for grinding our graunching noises from the suspension and check the paint carefully for excessive stone chipping or damage. It's also worth winding up some speed and then heaving on the brakes to check that the anti-lock brake system is working OK - some ABS control units were reported to have failed.

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

Both excellent choices although it's worth pointing out that the petrol-powered Honda will struggle more to hold on to any value as the market is so diesel-obsessed at the moment. Still, that means prices are cheaper for you at buying time...

As with all Hondas, the CR-V is remarkably reliable, although this model has suffered from some issues. There have been some problems with trim scratching and scuffing too easily, as well as problems with the alternators. Some have had issues with the gearbox too and high front tyre wear. You should also check carefully underneath to make sure that any previous owner hasn't been taking the 4x4 bit too seriously.

That goes equally for the Hyundai and the good news here too is that reliability is excellent. The only regularly reported problems with the Santa Fe are that the air conditioning system can need regular re-gassing and that the stereo is pretty rubbish.

Both will be expensive to run though. The CR-V has CO₂ emissions of 194g/km so motor tax is going to be pricey. Despite being diesel, the Hyundai is no better, with CO₂ emissions of 191g/km. Both will average around 35mpg in regular driving.

I have to admit to a small bias - my father-in-law has owned his 2.0-litre petrol CR-V from new in 2007 and loves it. It's been massively reliable (only ever needing a replacement alternator) and he regularly gets better than 40mpg from it. That said, the Hyundai is also an excellent vehicle and I would say both are safe bets - try some test drives and see which one you prefer and let us know which way you go.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

It's a tough question to answer, this one, simply because different wheels and tyres can make an enormous difference to ride quality. As you say, French cars tend to fare very well in this regard and I think the most comfortable car I have driven in recent years was a top-spec Citroen C5 with the traditional Citroen hydra gas suspension, which just felt as if the road surface wasn't there. As you say, French cars can have their reliability issues, but the C5 was always pretty well screwed together.

Of the other options, both the Ford Mondeo and Opel Insignia are good bets, especially if you can avoid any cars that have been specced-up with big wheels and low profile tyres. Go for nothing bigger than a 17-inch wheel with at least a 55-profile tyre - wheel and tyre combos make a huge difference to ride comfort,

Of course if you want the ultimate in ride comfort, then track yourself down a Jaguar XJ6 saloon from the mid-eighties. Best ride quality of any car ever. I can't vouch for the reliability though...

Expert answer

Hi Rob,

Really good actually - reliable, hugely spacious and quite nice to drive. Best of all, a 2009 one will still have up to two full years of the manufacturer's warranty left to run. Mind you, you need to read the fine print on that - there are some exclusions, including interior rattles and loose trim, something the cee'd does suffer from.  

They can also go through tyres quite quickly and the gearbox can give trouble, although it's usually just a matter of changing the transmission fluid.

Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

The E60 was a terrific car but not without its faults. Listen carefully for any nasty noises coming from the suspension and check the steering to make sure it responds quickly and accurately and that there's no odd weighting in the power assistance. The run-flat tyres and the pressure monitoring system that goes with them can also play up, as can the first-gen iDrive system, so make sure all the electronics are working.

Finally, that last-of-the-line 2.2-litre straight-six was a fab engine but did occasionally suffer from some cooling and head gasket problems. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge during your test drive and check the service record (which should of course be full and complete) for any frequent revisits to the dealers to have the cooling looked at.

Expert answer

Hi Nessa,

Yes, no reason why you shouldn't. Obviously make sure the condition, mileage and history are all in order, but beyond that there are very few things to specifically look for as V70s tend to be built like the proverbial tanks and can easily shrug off high mileage if they're looked after. In fact, according to Volvo's official line on these things, a car with that mileage is only half way through its life...

Things to watch for? Listen out for any unpleasant noises from the front suspension - it's an acknowledged weak point and excess wear and tear is not unusual. Keep an eye on the front tyres too, as they burn through 'em. The engine's only major weak point is its injector system, but you'll know straight away whether yours has problems or not - if it's reluctant to start or belches out great clouds of black smoke when it does start, walk away.

Expert answer

Hi Keith,

The areas you have to check carefully on an E60 5 Series are the suspension and electrics. If there are any nasty noises coming from underneath, or if the steering feels anything less than precise and solid, you've got possible trouble. The run-flat tyres can also cause trouble, suffering from little air leaks that play havoc with the tyre pressure monitoring system. The iDrive infotainment system can also be wayward, sometimes taking as long as 20 minutes to boot up, but apparently post-2005 cars are far better in this regard. Finally, check all the electrical and electronic systems to make absolutely sure that everything is working as it should be, and don't even consider a car that doesn't have a full service history.

Expert answer

Hi Valerie,

Nope, they're excellent. Mazda's reputation for reliability is well earned and the 3 is a really nice car to drive. They're a little plain on the inside, but they're certainly hard-wearing so if you're a family motorist that should reassure you. The only problem to report is that some early models suffered from turbo failure, but it seems to have been an isolated problem. You will have to put up with a little more road roar and tyre noise than you might expect, though.

Go drive one for yourself to see what you think and let us know.

Expert answer

Hi Tanya,

Actually, both cars have exactly the same engine - BMW's long-serving 3.0-litre straight-six diesel. The first generation X5 is little short of excellent, with terrific handling and a gorgeous, comfortable cabin. Reliability isn't the best though. The engines have occasional problems with fuel injectors and developing cracks in the inlet manifold, while steering and suspension are also prone to damage and wear. X5s are also notorious for chewing through tyres at a ferocious rate. The engine's air mass sensor can also fail, leading to poor acceleration although you'll spot that easily enough on a test drive.

Basically, it's worth getting any potential purchase checked over by the AA for any faults, and just ignore anything that doesn't come with a full service history. Oh, and it's better to go for the 2004 one - that should have the newer six-speed automatic gearbox (ignore manuals - they'll be worth much less come trade-in time) that improves fuel economy to just over 30mpg.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

The turbos go so beware of blue or black smoke from the exhaust, and check the convertible hood for any signs of wear and tear. If it's leaking (damp carpets are the giveaway) then replacement parts and repairs can be very expensive. Check too for uneven tyre wear - it can just be that the previous owner has kerbed the wheels but it can also be an indication that the car has damage to its driveshafts.

Expert answer

Hi Rowland,

OK, there are a lot of parameters to go with here, but the basics are that you need a car that's cheap to buy (so it can't, sadly be too new), has affordable running costs and won't break down every time it rains. I reckon that gives you a choice of three or four key models: Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla or Auris, Kia cee'd or Hyundai i30.

Have a shop around and you should be able to find several of those all well within your purchase price range, while they all have efficient engines and excellent reliability records. In the case of the Kia and the Hyundai, they also have lengthy warranties, which, even if there's none left on the one you buy, at least means that they're more likely to have been looked after. My personal choice would be the Honda. Track down a nice 1.4 petrol Civic and I don't think you'll look back.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

The last-generation S60 got a bit unfairly hit by various Irish tax regimes (it never had an engine under 2.0 litres for instance), but it's actually a cracking car - well built and superbly comfy, as Volvos tend to be. Keep an eye out for minor electronic glitches (the cruise control and electric windows seem to be vulnerable points) and if the engine is 'lumpy' when you're switching it off, you're looking at injector issues - expensive ones.

In terms of day-to-day running costs, it should do 44mpg with a manual gearbox (a little less with the optional automatic) and emissions of 175g/km mean you can tax it for €750 a year. That's pricey, but better than buying a pre-2008 model (2008-2009 was the last full year of production) when the engine capacity would land you with a €1,034 tax bill. One running cost to keep an eye on is front tyres. The S60 is quite nose-heavy and has a massive turning circle, things that tend to banjax the front boots. Check any potential purchase for worn rubber and budget for at least a new set every year.

Expert answer

Hi Rosemary,

According to the official figure, you should be getting 33mpg. Bear in mind though that this is almost a ten-year old car, so its performance in terms of fuel economy may have tailed off. Nothing a good service and oil change wouldn't fix though, along with some decent new tyres.

Expert answer

Hi Scott,

Scrappage isn't worth much these days, sadly, but it might be worth having a ring around local breakers' yards and spare parts experts. Often the value in a car can lie in its components rather than the whole, so if things like the body and interior are in good nick, then you may get some value out of selling those off separately.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Michael,

Should be fine, but just check all the electrics and buttons on the inside, as one of the few weak areas on the Vitara is in its wiring. Also make sure that a recall to have the front suspension attended to has been done, and check the service book - Vitaras have rather short 10,000km service intervals so one or two may have been skipped. Other than that, it should be a good 'un.

Expert answer

Hi Ruairi,

As with any folding hard top cabrio the first and most important thing is to check the roof carefully for any problems, leaks, wear and tear. They can be fragile so you want to make sure that everything's working right. 

Secondly, all that roof stuff is heavy (which is why the Eos is so clumsy to drive) so you need to be checking for excessive wear and tear on suspension, tyres, steering etc. 

As for engine, there's no point in going for the 2.0 turbo engine from the Golf GTI as the Eos's porky weight kills the performance. Better to just accept you'll be slow and go for the 1.4 TSI or 2.0 TDI diesel instead.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Leo,

It's always very difficult to analyse such things from afar so we'd advise you bring the car to a good mechanic. It could be something stuck in the tyre or brake disc, it could be a damaged tyre, it could be a worn wheel bearing or something in the transmission.

Best of luck getting it sorted

Expert answer

Hi Susan,

Wow, you're a glutton for punishment aren't you? You pretty much couldn't have picked two less reliable cars. The Discovery is best avoided. If you could afford to trade up to a third-generation model I'd say that's worth a go, as Land Rover was starting to get on top of its quality issues by then, but the old Series II is just bad news. Gearboxes go, electrics go and even the suspension can fail. I know what you mean about falling in love - it's happened to me too with old Land Rovers, but you're looking at a very high-maintenance partner there.

The Espace is a little better, but not by much. The diesel engines are very fragile - check for smoke, check for oil levels and if there are any signs of overheating, run don't walk away. Check anything with an electrical wire coming out the back of it too as it can all go wrong, although the electronic parking brake and electric windows are especially prone to wrongness. Also, keep an eye on the tyres. Espaces go through them like butter and 20,000km is about as much as you'll get out of a set.

If you really want a seven-seater that works properly, can I suggest either a Mitsubishi Pajero or Toyota Land Cruiser? Not as cool as the Discovery, but they won't let you down.

Expert answer

Hi Robbie,

It could well be a wheel bearing. Though it could just as easily be a tyre. Best bet is to bring it to a different mechanic to have it checked over.

Expert answer

Hi Vittorio,

You've got it all answered yourself there. The BMW's overall residual value will indeed be slightly better, but, long term, the Mazda should prove to be much more reliable and rugged. Both are excellent to drive. The BMW's classic rear-drive chassis is slightly the superior, but the Mazda's muscular steering feel and firmly sprung chassis makes it one of the best front-drive saloon chassis around. 

Nothing major to watch for on either - just make sure there's a fully stamped up service history and check the BMW carefully to make sure that all the electrical bits work and that it's been topped up with high grade oil at each service. Both cars may have been driven hard by previous owners (many will be ex-fleet) so check carefully for thinks like uneven tyre wear or noises from underneath that indicate worn or out-askew suspension.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

It could be down to a number of factors, but excessive fuel consumption can usually be traced to a few specific areas:

Are the tyre pressures correct all round? Tyres that are under pressure can seriously increase your fuel consumption.

Are you using a roof rack or roof box, or are you constantly carrying around heavy loads in the boot?

Has the engine been serviced recently?

Finally, there’s your own driving style, which is often the bigger contributing factor to fuel consumption. If you’re trying to save fuel, try accelerating a little more gently, anticipating the traffic flow a little further ahead, backing off earlier and not idling the engine when standing still for long periods.

Expert answer

Hi Jaro,

Are you talking about the E46 model (1998 to 2006) or the E92 (2007 to 2013)?

If it's the E46, check carefully for any suspension problems - listen for clonking noises from underneath and look closely for uneven tyre wear. There was also a problem with radiator cooling fans failing. It's easily replaced but the problem is that the damage may already have been caused so if the car you're looking at has had a new fan, check carefully for any signs of head gasket damage or overheating.

If it's the E92, then cabin rattles and nosies are your biggest problem. They can be fixed but they can be a nightmare of trial and error to do so. Some electronic systems can also give trouble, especially the optional Bluetooth phone system, but that can usually be fixed with a software patch from a BMW dealer. The petrol 320i version can burn through a lot of oil, so take a long test drive to check for any signs of leaks or a smell of burning oil or blue exhaust smoke. There have been reports of total engine failures for the 320i too, but thankfully they seem to be very rare.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Eddie,

There are certainly no reports out there of any persistent handbrake issues with the FR-V so it could just be a specific problem with that car - the handbrake may have been over-adjusted at the last service, perhaps. Try another one and see if you feel the same problem. Otherwise FR-Vs are, like all Hondas, staggeringly reliable and well made. There are just no repeated problems with them, so, as long as the one you're looking at has a full service history and is in good nick, you should be fine.

Just watch for two things; check the interior and especially the boot for signs of excess wear and tear - these are hard-working family machines and many have been treated with a fair amount of disdain. Then check the tyres for signs of uneven wear - that could mean that the suspension has been knocked askew, something that's easily done as the FR-V is a little wider than most cars.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Eileen,

First up, we believe you mean rear-wheel drive cars. All BMWs (up to a new one launching later this year anyway) send their power to the rear or all wheels, and most Mercedes-Benz models do as well (though that's slowly changing). So, what's the 'problem' with rear-wheel drive? The stories you are referring to probably started off when we had those particularly long icy winters a few years ago. Many drivers of rear-drive cars found themselves stranded when others sailed past. This is down to lack of traction.

In a front-engined, rear-drive car there is very little weight over the driven wheels so in very slippery conditions it can struggle to put its power down. Most normal cars (i.e. not executive or sporty) are front-engined and front-wheel drive, where the weight of the engine over the wheels helps in low-grip conditions. Saying all that, sales of BMWs and Mercs etc. with rear-wheel drive are very high in countries that consistently have much worse weather than us, but the difference is that they habitually change over to winter tyres for a fixed portion of the year. These have a massive effect.

Back in Ireland, BMWs and Mercs are bought in relatively large numbers due to their status and image, yet they're not as expensive as they used to be. Most of the time here the lack of rear traction is not an issue, though some drivers don't like the feel of a rear-drive car in wet conditions. They're no less safe though, especially the latest models with all their driver aids.

Personally, I prefer rear-wheel drive, but I'd advise all buyers to try a range of cars to see what they like.

Hope that helps you understand those stories a little!

Expert answer

Hi Stella,

OK, the good news is that your Yaris is an in-demand model and values for cars from around that era are holding up well because of the scarcity of new car sales since the financial crash. I'd hope that you'd get around €8,000 for it, but let's play safe and assume you get €7,000 and you can add your €1k to that. That opens up an entire world of MINIs to you, and not just old models - you should be able to get into the second-generation post-2006 model, which is noticeably more refined and well made. I'd suggest trying to track down a nicely specced 1.6 Cooper and enjoy the heck out of it. As a MINI owner myself, I can tell you that they're great fun to drive and not quite as impractical as you might think.

Now, reliability. There's no two ways about it - Toyotas are staggeringly reliable and break very rarely. MINIs aren't bad, not bad at all, but they're just not quite as bank-vault solid as the Japanese car. Buy carefully, make sure you get one with a full and complete service history and you should be fine. Regular servicing isn't too pricey (about €190 for a normal service) and fuel economy should be pretty good too.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

We haven’t been able to find any evidence of a Volkswagen-instigated sensor replacement programme, but it seems that there are two possible issues here. First, some of the problems may just be brake and tyre dust covering the sensor and a proper clean might do the trick. Secondly, it could be that the wheel-hub is failing, and that is what is triggering the sensor issue so we’d advise getting the car inspected properly to see if that’s the case.

Expert answer

Hi George,

Oh dear, where to begin? Warranty Direct describes the 9-5 as one of the most troublesome cars it's ever surveyed. Electrics are the most common problems, so make sure all the buttons work, then check the suspension for signs of wear, tear or incoming failure. Uneven tyre wear is an early sign of problems there.

Approach with caution basically.

Expert answer

Hi Ian,

If it's space you're looking for, go for the Superb, as it's massive inside. No reported electrical problems, but watch for high front tyre wear, paint peeling away from bumpers and flimsy fuel filler caps. There are some reports knocking around of clutches and flywheels failing, but these seem to be very isolated and not a recurrent problem. The Superb's a great car though - smooth and comfy, very spacious and one of the best cars on the market. Go for the Combi estate for even more boot space and nicer exterior styling (in our opinions!).

Expert answer

Hi Tom,

Surprisingly, given Suzuki's reputation, there are a few issues, although they're more in the category of annoyances than actually stopped-by-the-side-of-the-road stuff. 

Watch for a heavy or obstructive gearshift, as this indicates that the gearbox is on the way out, and listen for graunches or other horrible noises from the brakes.

Front tyre wear can be high, so make sure the front wheels are properly balanced and aligned and that the tyres are at the correct pressure. 

Paint can be an issue too so watch for stone chips or other damage or for just a generally poor paint finish. 

Interior rattles are common, with a particularly annoying and hard-to-reach one deep behind the dash a common culprit. Finally, look for poor crash damage repairs. The Swift uses expensive wraparound bumpers and low speed impacts can lead to high bills, so many owners have resorted to quick or bodged repairs.

Hope that all helps. We actually quite like the car despite all that!

Expert answer

Hi Morgan,

There's no doubt that the Land Cruiser will be the more reliable of the two. Toyota's quality has dipped in some areas of late, but the Land Cruiser is still something of a halo model for the whole range. There is a good reason why Land Cruisers are the vehicle of choice in sub-Saharan Africa and other harsh environments and that's because they're built tough. The current model lacks a little in terms of its cabin appointments (certainly, the Audi feels far plusher) and it does roll a lot through the corners (again, the Audi is much better to drive), but it's superbly comfy, very spacious and you'll be giving it to your grandkids in your will. 

Mind you, the Audi is no shabby player when it comes to reliability, and only really excessive front tyre wear (it's been known to get through a set in as little as 8,000km) and some electrical niggles (watch for powered tailgate problems) seem to count against it.

Our instinct would still be to go for the Toyota though. The Q7 has an unfortunate whiff of the trendy, socialite, school-run SUV about it whereas the Land Cruiser is more appealingly rugged.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi James,

A solid 8 out of 10 I'd say. A really good family car, with lots of space, that's also good to drive. They're pretty solid on the reliability front too. Just watch for uneven front tyre wear, clogging diesel particulate filters and issues with the standard-fit electronic parking brake - it's usually just a faulty sender switch in the clutch mechanism though. Listen for clonking noises coming from the steering, watch for faulty seatbelt adjusters and beware of drooping rear electric windows.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Niall,

Mechanically, there's not much to worry about here. Pumas were made before the explosion in complicated electronics so there is simply less to go wrong, and the 1.4- and 1.7-litre (later replaced by a 1.6-litre) engines were all designed by Yamaha, so they're very robust indeed. Likewise gearboxes. Just make sure there's a service book full of stamps and that the oil has been regularly changed and you should be fine. The Puma's weak point is its suspension, which is prone to being knocked out of true. Look for signs of uneven tyre wear and listen carefully for knocking or clonking noises. Make sure the brakes are in good nick too as they can wear out rather easily.

Expert answer

Hi Derry,

The S line spec on an A4 is nice, especially in styling terms, but it does also include lower, stiffer suspension, so if you value your comfort and refinement, maybe go for an SE instead. As for things to watch for, obviously with any car of that age you need to check pretty much everything very carefully, and don’t buy anything that doesn’t come with a full service history. Check that the MMI infotainment system is all working properly (it’s a major trouble spot), and check the carpets for damp spots as the air conditioning system often leaks. S line models often develop tracking issues, so check the front tyres for uneven wear, and a dull thud from the suspension when going over bumps means the anti-roll bar drop links need replacing, too.

Expert answer

Hi Una,

A good, solid car the 1 Series, but there are a few issues to look for. Watch for front tracking problems or even problems with the steering rack itself - excessive front tyre wear is the giveaway. All 1 Series gearboxes feel a bit stiff but one that's especially obstructive could be on the way out. Electric windows can seize (thankfully usually in the shut position) and airbag faults are common, but there'll be a dash warning light for those. Make sure that the traction control is working too, as it can fail and shut down entirely. There were a few recalls, for rear axle problems, seatbelt and pre tensioner issues and for the brake booster so make sure the work has already been done by checking with a dealer.

And for an import, we'd urge you pay for a Cartell.ie history check.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Joss.

It will depend on history and condition, of course, but the ballpark is €7,500 to €8,500.

Expert answer

Hi Dawn,

Going on personal experience, I'd say that the C4 Picasso would be the most economical of the bunch. All of them should be able to get between 45-50mpg, and I'd say the C4 should just nudge above 50mpg. That said, you have to remember that what dictates fuel economy more than the car is your driving style. Practice driving with light throttle openings, anticipating further ahead and always using gentle control inputs and you should be able to get that economy figure improved. Also, take any excess weight out of the car, make sure the engine is serviced regularly and the oil changed often and get a good set of low-rolling resistance tyres, and keep them at the right pressure. It all helps.

Expert answer

Hi Breda,

Well, on the one hand, both the Aygo and the Auris are very well built and reliable so both will minimise any potential for expensive maintenance costs, and both are very frugal and economical, so either would be a fine choice. The Auris might be a bit more of a painless switch if you've been used to a Golf, as it's similar in size and comfort levels.

But, as you say that your journeys have decreased in length, switching cars may not actually save you any money. Changing cars is usually more expensive than maintaining and running an older car, and you need to sit down and do your sums very, very carefully. Work out what the actual cost of change is for you (the price of either car you are considering minus the trade-in value of your Golf, but including the cost of finance) and balance that against the cost of continuing to run and fuel your existing car, factoring in some cash for a good service and a new set of tyres (often the best way to improve your fuel economy).

Expert answer

Hi David,

To be honest, I'd be tempted to hang on to the SX4. Suzukis are generally astonishingly reliable, whereas with the best will in the world, Renaults are not. Even if your mileage is increasing, there are cheap and simple ways to improve your economy (a tune-up, low rolling resistance tyres, practice) so my best advice is to stick with what you've got. 

In the meantime, I'd say you're looking at a trade in value of around €8-9,000.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

I'm assuming you're referring to TDI diesel versions of both. The Superb is a much larger and heavier car so it doesn't feel quite as rapid, but it's not at all disappointing. That engine has plenty of torque to make it feel usefully quick when you need it to. The Octavia RS, however, is undoubtedly more of a performance car, even in diesel guise. The Octavia feels sportier in general because of its RS interior bits and pieces, low profile tyres and sports suspension too. A review for you:

Skoda Octavia Combi RS TDI review

Expert answer

Hi Kevin,

Not great I'm afraid. The current Espace, which dates back to 2003, is based on the same platform as the second generation Laguna and suffers the same problems. So expect lots of electrical issues (not great on a car with an all-digital dashboard) and the electric windows are especially fragile. Front tyre wear is also an issue, and we've heard reports of collapsing front suspension and a tendency for the exhaust system to give problems, especially with the catalytic convertor.

Expert answer

Hi Paula,

It depends on the model and equipment. Some C4 Picassos came with an air compressor and tyre sealant, and may not have a jack fitted as standard. Some models do have a space-spacer spare, though, and therefore will have a jack. It should be under the boot floor at the back.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

There are many squirt-and-inflate kits available in motor factors nationwide but they're only of use for very specific punctures: small intrusions like nails or screws that you've driven over. If it's an all-too-common pinch puncture, where a pothole has pushed the edge of the tyre off the wheel, they're useless. 

So, you've two options really. Either stash a space-saver wheel and tyre loose in the boot or invest in a decent roadside recovery package that will either be able to bring you a new tyre at the roadside or else carry you to somewhere you can get any issue fixed.

None of this is ideal, we realise.

Expert answer

Hi John,

I'd say on a trade-in you'd probably get about €2,500 to €3,000 for it. But make sure you do your sums carefully when changing. The cost of change can often outweigh what you're spending on petrol. Maybe practice some seriously economical driving techniques? Take any excess weight out of the car by emptying the boot etc. And get the engine properly serviced and tuned, with fresh filters and new oil.  Check the tyres for condition and correct pressure. You'd be surprised what a difference things like that can make to your fuel consumption.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Ian,

There are a couple of alternatives to the Q7 alright. The Land Rover Discovery is probably the best all-round seven-seat SUV on the market and easily matches the Q7 for driver appeal, cabin space and premium image. The only problem is that Land Rover is still working its way up from a low point in terms of reliability, and while the current Disco is certainly very well built, we'd reckon that a Q7 would be a little bit better in terms of reliability when you're talking about a car that's already a few years old.

In fact, we know of only two issues with the Q7. One, it's apparently quite hard on tyres and two, if it's got an electric tailgate, it can open or close with a mind of its own sometimes, although that should have been fixed in a recall by now.

You could go for a BMW X5 with seven seats, but there's not as much space in the third row in the BMW, so it depends on what you need those extra chairs for. If it's only for occasional use, for kids etc, then the X5 is well worth a look and is a fantastic car to drive. If you need to put adults back there, stick with the Audi. You could downsize to a Hyundai Santa Fe seven-seater of course, which is a reliable, affordable choice but lacking both third row space and the cachet of the Audi.

Or you could steer away from the SUV world altogether and get a Mercedes-Benz E-Class Estate with the extra rear-facing seats in the boot. Bit of an unsung hero that one, and much cheaper to run than a big 4x4. Or, of course, you could do the whole off-roader thing properly and get a long wheelbase Land Rover Defender, but you'll need ear plugs for long journeys.

Choosing between a 2007 or a 2008 Audi Q7 is all down to the price and the individual car. There was a facelift in 2009 that brought some engine updates and cabin and styling changes, but if you can find a good 2007 one, with a full Audi service history, you could be looking at paying as little as €20k. A Q7 for the price of a new Ford Focus? Not bad...

Let us know which way you go

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

Sadly, probably not a lot. I'd say around €2,500 to €3,000.

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

I'd say you're looking at a probable value of between €5,000 and €7,000 with that kind of mileage. Trading in probably the better route, unless it's a diesel you're selling. Private buyers just don't seem to want to know about petrol cars at the moment.

Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Bill,

Is that the 1.8-litre engine? If so, then it had an official fuel economy figure of 32mpg. I say ‘had’ because that’s a 16-year-old car and a huge amount is going to depend on how well it’s been looked after. Generally speaking, I’d say that you should expect around 25mpg from it around town, and maybe 35mpg on a longer run.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

We've not used Tyre Armour ourselves, but would suggest you go for a small compressor and a tin of tyre sealant. Not as comforting as an actual spare, but it doesn't sound like that's an option anyway.

Expert answer

Hi Saz,

If you're buying something that old, a lot of the potential fuel consumption is going to be down to the condition of the car and how badly worn the engine is. On that basis, I'd suggest you hunt around for a late nineties, early 2000s Suzuki Alto 1.0. They're as close to indestructible as any car can get to and the dinky little 1.0-litre engine should return mid-forties MPG, even around town. Again though, if you're looking to maximise economy, make sure it's serviced, make sure it gets a good high-grade engine oil and some decent tyres. There's nothing like good maintenance for driving your fuel bills down.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

They're generally quite solid, but there are a few crucial checks to make. Alternator belts can wear and make a horrible screeching noise when they do. The HDi engines need an additive put in at 60-80,000-mile intervals. A heavy clutch pedal may mean clutch failure is imminent. There are diesel particulate filter issues - if the DPF light comes on and stays on, run the car at medium revs in a low gear for several kilometres to try and heat up the exhaust enough to burn out soot from the DPF. If that doesn't work, it's an expensive part to have replaced. Dual-mass flywheels can get warped and cause a juddering effect. A lumpy idle or excessive exhaust smoke may mean that the exhaust gas recirculation valve needs replacing. 

Inside, the radio and its LED screen can be fragile while, if the air conditioning isn't puffing hard enough, it usually means that the pollen filter needs emptying. Underneath, watch for the front suspension being out of alignment and for excessive tyre wear - 407s were always quite hard on their tyres. A groaning power steering system means the pump needs replacing too.

Expert answer

Hi Gerry,

This being a Toyota, you'll not be surprised to learn that there are, thankfully, very few major issues with the Previa. Really, the only engine checks you have to make are that the timing belt has been changed on schedule (every 60,000 miles) and the engine oxygen sensor is working right - if the engine management light stays on after you're started the car that's usually the sign of an issue.

On the inside check for floppy arm-rests. Seriously, apparently the adjustable arm-rests do wear out and refuse to stay in place, which must be annoying.

Underneath, rear track control arms on the suspension can be out of alignment (listen for knocking noises) and if you feel a juddering brake pedal you may need to budget for replacement discs. And apparently they eat tyres - big heavy cars tend to do that.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Eoin,

OK, first off you're not mad and an M Sport spec BMW 318d or 320d is just about as perfect a car as you'll find. Mind you, test drive carefully before you buy as the M Sport suspension can be pretty stiff and unforgiving on certain roads, and the steering, while more incisive than what you'd get in the Golf, can also be a bit heavy and fake-feeling.

That said, there are things you can do to make your Golf drive with a little more sharpness and the first place I'd start is with the tyres. Most, if not all, cars these days come with high-efficiency low rolling resistance tyres that are there to maximise fuel economy, but don't do much for steering feel or handling prowess. So why not swap the boots for something a little more aggressive? A set of Pirelli P-Zeros or Michelin Pilot tyres might just make all the difference, so it's worth a try if nothing else.

You could also look at modifying the suspension to dial out that understeer, but we'd recommend you seek professional mechanical advice before going down that road.

Let us know what you do in any case.

Expert answer

Hi Bartlomiej,

Well, it kinda depends what you mean by SUV. If you mean large, the likes of the Hyundai Santa Fe, Honda CR-V etc, then it's probably best to wait until the new 1.6-litre, front-wheel drive version of the Honda arrives later this year, as that will be a big, spacious SUV that has emissions of under 120g/km, although the lack of four-wheel drive might not appeal.

If it's the smaller ones you're looking at then I'd suggest a Skoda Yeti. It bridges the gap, size-wise, between the very small Nissan Juke and the large stuff like Mazda's CX-5 and the Kia Sportage. Go for the 1.6 TDI Greenline version and you'll have a spacious, rugged, practical family car with Band A4 tax (€200 a year) and it should do a pretty steady 50mpg most of the time.

Want something a bit more flash? The MINI Countryman, with its 1.6-litre diesel engine, is super-frugal, but you do need to spend a bit on options to get the right look.

It may also be worth waiting a couple of months until the new Renault Captur and Peugeot 2008 arrive on sale, as both should prove very affordable to run.

Expert answer

Hi Ronan,

Thankfully the potential glitch list on XC90s seems to be pretty small, especially if you go for the diesel engine and the Asin-Warner automatic gearbox. Apparently most XC90 problems relate to the petrol engined versions, running a GM gearbox.

Make sure that the timing belt has been changed at 100,000-mile intervals. Check for outer-shoulder tyre wear caused by suspension mis-alignment. The top suspension mounts can be weak on the early models, but as the one you're looking at is a 2008, you should be OK, as Volvo replaced many under warranty. Wheel bearings can wear, so listen for rumbling noises and the brakes pads and parking brake mechanism are both prone to early wear.

Hope that helps; let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi there,

We're surprised to hear you say this, as we've driven several versions of the new Golf on different wheels etc. without an issue. Even the sportier GTI model rides well.

Please come back to us with a few more details, such as the size of wheel, the tyres fitted and a description as best you can on where the rattle is coming from.

Of course, if it's a fault you should be talking directly to your dealer.

Expert answer

Hi Geraldine,

Updated answer:

In 2015, Ford gave the Focus a major update, with new styling (check out that Aston-Martin-esque grille at the front) and an upgraded interior (new dials, fewer buttons and the option of the big, bright SYNC2 touch-screen system). The trim levels remained the same - Focus, Style, Zetec, Zetec + and Titanium with the range topped off by the sporting ST model.

Standard equipment on Focus models includes tyre pressure monitors, emergency brake assist, hill-holder clutch, 'MyKey' (which restricts speed, distance and stereo settings for the spare key - good if you have teenagers in the house), front electric windows, capless fuel filler, steering wheel stereo controls, height adjustable drivers' seat and split-folding rear seats.

Style adds a USB connection and Ford's SYNC connectivity for the stereo, manual air conditioning, body coloured door handles and power mirrors, 16-inch alloys, leather steering wheel and gear shifter and map pockets in the back of the seats.

Zetec models get front fog lights, lower, Sports suspension, a heated windscreen, sportier seats and an upgraded centre console.

Zetec + adds keyless start, drive lumbar support, 17-inch alloys, LED rear lights and a 'premium' centre console with a sliding arm-rest.

Titanium gets the same keyless start but adds dual-zone climate control, cruise control with speed limiter, all-round power windows, mesh radiators grille, an 'overhead console' with a sunglasses holder and integrated reading lights, velour upholstery, rear cup holders and ambient lighting.

ST models get all of that plus some extra sporty bits and seriously tweaked suspension and steering, while the current limited Black Edition and Red Edition come with manual air conditioning, curtain airbags, red stitching everywhere, scuff plates and exterior bodykit, acoustic windscreen and metallic pedal covers. 

Original answer:

Ford doesn't actually make an LX Focus any more. Instead, the basic Focus model is now just known as plain old Focus, and it comes with a CD player, USB connection, electric front windows and door mirrors, remote central locking, electronic stability control and, on the five-door hatch, a rear spoiler.

Next up is the Edge model, which adds air conditioning, a 3.5-inch colour display for the stereo, a leather steering wheel, heated mirrors, trip computer with economy driving monitor and body coloured door handles. Then there's the Zetec, which, over and above the Edge gets 16-inch alloy wheels, Quickclear windscreen, centre arm rest with stowage box and 12v plug, sports suspension and sportier front seats.

The Titanium takes all that and also gives you split-zone climate control, a start/stop button, cruise control, jazzier wheels (still 16-inch in diameter though), hill start assist, LED rear lights, aluminium scuff plates, footwell lights, a rear arm rest and a leather gear knob. Please bear in mind that these are current Focus model trims, and if you're looking at older models then they will be different.

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

Mileage does matter, of course, but not half as much as service history. If it’s been properly looked after, then the Touareg is well-made and reliable, but the 2.5 TDI engine is prone to blowing turbos, and breaking its water pumps, and they’re very hard on tyres. Also, check carefully underneath for any signs of damage from over-enthusiastic off-roading.

Expert answer

Hi Ronan,

Currently, legislation on tyre pressure monitors works like this. In the US, the National Highway Traffic Safety Authority has required all new passenger cars to be fitted with tyre pressure monitors since 2007. In the EU, all new models of cars introduced since November 1st 2012 must have tyre pressure monitoring, while from November 1st 2014, every model of car on sale must be fitted. The current gap between the haves and have-nots is simply down to model cycles and replacement schedules.

Hope that's a bit clearer

Expert answer

Hi Pad,

There is an aftermarket spare wheel kit for the Rio, available from UK-based Kiapartsdirect.co.uk, but it only works as a full size spare if you've got the standard 15-inch steel wheels on your car. If you went for the option alloys, it only works as a space saver. Probably your best bet is simply to have a word with your nearest Kia dealer. They'll know what spare tyre options are available for your car.

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

I'm not sure I'd recommend a pickup for you, as, until the very recent arrivals of the Volkswagen Amarok and Ford Ranger, they were all a bit crude and dreadful. They're commercial vehicles, not family cars. That said, if you want something truly rugged, then what about a Land Rover Defender 130 with a crew cab? Iconic looks and unbeatable toughness, but they can be expensive to buy and run.

Actually my recommendation would be to track down an old-shape Kia Sportage. It's surprisingly good at going off-road, comfy and decent to drive on the road and circa €8,000 should pick you up a good one, potentially with still a bit of Kia's famous warranty left to run. Not as stylish as the current Spprtage it's true, but invest in a sturdy rubber liner for the boot and you should have the ideal log-carrying device.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Ronan,

Generally speaking, it’s best to get the car serviced beforehand, and let the garage know that it’s going in for its NCT. That way you’re dealing with all issues that are there, not just what the NCT picks up on. That said, with it being a Toyota, and you having serviced it every year already, you shouldn’t have any major issues I suspect.

Read our Eight top tips on how to prepare your car for its NCT feature

Expert answer

Hi Declan,

That sounds like crazy low mileage for a 2008 car so have it verified at Cartell.ie.

If it checks out and the tyres have never been changed then theoretically you should change them, but in reality few people would...

Best of luck

Expert answer

Hi Paraic,

First and foremost is the running costs, but I guess they're on the same level as any large SUV-based commercial with an automatic gearbox - they're heavy on fuel and tyres, etc.

Other than that, while the Discovery 3 is proving to be more reliable than its predecessor, it's hardly the most dependable truck of its type. Some cars are perfect, but others have loads of issues, from the electrics to the air suspension and even to full engine failure.

Don't settle for anything less than a full service history and make sure you have the car checked out by someone that knows what they're looking at too.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Coreen,

That does sound odd, especially the need for four tyres, not just the front two. Did you measure their tread depth for yourself? 

Tyre wear rate depends on many variables, such as the way you drive, where you drive, what make of tyre it is and whether the wheel alignment is right. If all four tyres in your car really do need changing then I'd suggest that you change to different brand of tyre and also get the four-wheel alignment checked by the tyre fitters. 

Let us know how you get on

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Runflats weren’t fitted as standard to the 2012 Audi A4, but you can fit them if you want to. Just make sure that your car is fitted with a tyre pressure monitor first, and make sure that whoever fits the tyres sets the monitor up properly. And make sure you buy from a good, recognised brand. Never skimp on tyres...

Expert answer

Hi Evan,

There's not a lot of difference between your car and the 2003 model so anything you've had go wrong with your own could happen to that - if there has been anything.

You should already be familiar with how hard the X5 is on its brakes, tyres and suspension so make sure they're all in good condition in any car you're looking at. There have been a few relatively minor engine issues too causing flat spots in the power delivery when accelerating so if you test drive a car and it has that best to walk away unless the seller agrees to fix it. Owners also report some problems with electrics so make sure you thoroughly check every button and switch in the car.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi William,

We've confirmed with BMW that it should be 2.2 bar on the front and 2.3 bar at the rear, though these details should be on a label visible when you open the driver's door - even for the different tyre sizes.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi William,

I'm afraid that engine is getting on now so it's not as economical as the latest generation of low capacity, turbocharged units. Our data shows the official combined consumption at 5.8 litres/100km (48.7mpg) so you're doing quite well really.

Usual tips to help improve further apply:

- remove unwanted junk from the boot

- check your tyre pressures and wheel alignment

- make sure the air filter is clean

- ensure it's well serviced

- don't use air conditioning or rear window demister unless needed

Hope that all helps in some way

Expert answer

Hi Ramon,

How long’s that piece of string, there? It really depends on model, history and condition. The old R34 Skyline GT-R (the square one, the last one to actually be called Skyline) can go for as little as €20,000, or as much as €70-80,000, depending on what sort of state they’re in. Newer GT-R models (the ‘Darth Vader’ one…) have a similarly huge price range, from as little as €40,000 to close to €100,000 depending on the age and spec.

As for problems, well, they’re hugely strong, well-made and reliable, but the problem is that tuners love them, so you never know quite what you’re getting. Check for poorly-executed modifications, incorrect wheels and tyres, suspension damage, blown turbos and electronics sent haywire by a poor engine re-mapping. Shop around very, very carefully to avoid one that’s been thrashed beyond its limits, and I’d recommend getting in touch with the owners’ club (maybe even joining and attending a few events) before making the leap.

These are hugely specialist cars, and the more knowledge you can build up, the better.

Expert answer

Hi Tom,

Having discussed this with you via email we do understand your concerns and the run-flat tyres are by no means perfect. However, the beauty of them is that, in the puncture situation, you can continue to drive them - albeit at a lower speed. That means you can continue to work and sort out getting the tyre changed at your convenience.

Guidelines to tyre fitters state that the tyres should be changed if punctured, but there are situations when they can be repaired inexpensively instead.

Putting a spare wheel into the boot would mean virtually no usable space for anything else in there. We feel that's a little drastic!

Let us know what you decide to do and how you get on with the tyres so we can let other readers know.

Expert answer

Hi Danny,

Extra load tyres are not usually needed on regular cars - they're usually found on people carriers etc. However, some tyre sizes are only available in 'XL' format so they're found on cars where that part of the tyre's specification is not strictly required. They tend to have stiffer sidewalls and are hence often used on low profile tyres. A car manufacturer may also specify this as part of how they want the car to drive on the road.

If that doesn't clear up your query please do come back to us.

Expert answer

Hi Andrew,

You're in an enviable position. I'm going to go on the assumption that four-wheel drive is a must-have (though a rear-wheel drive car on winter tyres is as good as a 4x4 without in terms of stopping and changing direction as well as traction...) and given your comment on fuel we'll say it has to be diesel too. Don't worry, there's still fun to be had.

The 3.0 TDI V6 engine found in certain Audi A6s and A8s is a gem and partnered with quattro four-wheel drive seems made for you. The equivalent rear-wheel drive BMWs are a little more engaging, and the 330d/530d's engine is also fantastic, though we suspect you want four-wheel drive. Try a 535d out for size and you might change your mind and invest in winter tyres instead!

As much as we admire the X5 and Touareg, and they're good value on the used market at the minute, we can't help but feel they'll be just as difficult to sell on in a few years.

Another excellent alternative to the (quite common) Audi A6 is the allroad quattro version, based on the A6 Avant. Seems to tick all the boxes.

Let us know if we're on the right track here.

Expert answer

Hi Jim,

There's no doubt that the Range Rover Sport (like all big SUVs) are harder on their tyres and brakes than an average car. Parts aren't cheap either and fuel consumption, even on the diesel models, is relatively high - though again, normal for the class.

Early examples were the subject of three recalls concerning brakes, the transmission and rear seat belt buckle, but once the car you're looking at has had those things recitified there shouldn't be an issue. The Range Rover Sport has a below average reputation for reliability, but we know people with faultless examples as well, so perhaps some buyers have been unlucky. Issues seem to come mostly from the electrics and the suspension so check everything is in working order and best to have some form of warranty from the dealer.

If you need more detailed help please do get in touch.

Expert answer

Hi James,

It's not ideal to do this. It will change the outer circumference, which will alter your car's gearing and put the speedo out. It's not by a huge amount admittedly, but generally not recommended.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

Nice choice of cars to be thinking about. Before we look at the stats of the cars, the driving experience in the 3 Series vs. the Audi A4 is quite different - and will be the deciding point for many, so please do try to get a test drive in examples of both. That's the case whether you go for the older 3 Series Coupé or the newer saloon.

Personally, I prefer the way a 3 Series of this age drives in comparison to an A4. It's more 'dynamic' and engaging thanks to the rear-wheel drive layout. However, not everyone likes that and I've heard non-enthusiastic drivers call the feeling 'skittish'. There is no doubt that a front-engined, front-wheel drive car like the Audi A4 will find more traction on snow and ice than a rear-wheel drive BMW (assuming neither has winter tyres), but our climate is too mild for that to be a serious car-buying priority.

In terms of running costs, the early versions of the E90 BMW 320d saloon and Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140 are very close and, as you'll be buying a car registered before 2008 with that budget then tax will be the same, as it's based on the engine size. The E46 320Cd coupé is a little heavier on fuel, but not much.

The 320d saloon has the most powerful engine of these three, though there's not much in it really.

Both saloons are generally quite reliable, though we'd recommend getting full service histories and getting mileage checks with Cartell.ie as each car has its own known issues that crop up from time to time - like turbo issues on the BMW and burning oil in the Audi. The E46 coupé is also reliable, though it's built on older architecture so won't be as modern in general.

One final thing to bear in mind. While the S line Audi specification is highly tempting, it comes with firmer suspension, which may not be to everyone's taste. Test drive it before committing. Likewise an M Sport version of the BMW 320d, though you may not find many of those within budget.

Now, whether you should consider petrol instead of diesel is a whole other story. The decision really should come down to your average mileage. The diesel models will definitely be far more economical on a long run or commute, but not in town. Likewise, you can get lower capacity engines in the petrol cars bringing your annual tax bill down.

If you want to discuss the latter point in more detail come back to us and we'll go through options.

Hope this all helps

Expert answer

Hi Adrian,

There's no doubt that premium cars of this age can come with costly repair bills. The older they get the more likely something will go wrong, no matter how reliable they are in general. The example you're looking at already has quite high mileage so we'd say budget for a grand or so of repairs a year just in case.

This generation of the A4 was reliable enough. Most problems seem to have stemmed from heating and cooling systems (in particular the air conditioning) and electrics so thoroughly inspect the car - preferably with a bit of professional help. Ensure that the gearbox (assuming it's manual) is smooth and noise-free and that there is no clonking from the front suspension.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Rory,

First of all, there are a huge number of factors that affect your fuel consumption. Tyre pressures is a major one - ensure they're in spec. Next up is your use of the air conditioning and other energy-sapping devices like rear window demister. The weight you carry in the car and whether you have a roof box or roof bars fitted will also have an effect. Last, but certainly not least, is your driving style.

You've not told us which engine you have so we'll assume it's the 1.5 dCi 105hp, as that's one of the most common in Ireland. The official urban figure for that car was 6.4 litres/100km (44.1mpg) and the combined consumption figure is 5.4 litres/100km (52.3mpg).

Hope that's of some help

Expert answer

Hi Val,

Generally it's a bad idea to fit mis-matching tyres across the same axle of a car (i.e. both front tyres should be the same and both rear tyres should be the same, but front and rear can be different brands etc. so long as the size is within manufacturer guidelines). In an ideal world all four tyres would be matching, but we realise that people need to save money.

On that note, we'd urge caution with regards to buying second-hand tyres. You can't possibly know their history and though they might be fine, it's still not a great idea.

Final point from us: a tyre is one of the most important parts of your car to maintain safety. Please don't scrimp on that.

Hope that's been of assistance.

Expert answer

Hi Jimmy,

Basically: no; this car has so far proven to be very reliable. Some people don't get on with the DSG automatic, though there are aftermarket experts that'll recalibrate it for you. Also, brake wear can be high so check for that, tyre condition and that it has been properly serviced.

Enjoy!

Expert answer

Hi Catherine,

That's an interesting one and the decision will probably come down to your personal preference. The Discovery certainly has a higher 'status' and it is a very good car, but a newer, highly specified Galaxy might be the logical choice. Both cars are relatively reliable and highly comfortable. The Galaxy has more space and probably more equipment, but that depends on the Discovery you're looking at.

One thing to be aware of is that the Discovery is likely to have higher running costs, from fuel, tyres, servicing and insurance to annual road tax.

Bear all that in mind and then take the Discovery for a good long test drive before you decide - and don't be tempted by 'too good to be true' prices either. Get a Cartell.ie history check to make sure there's nothing dodgy about the car you're considering.

Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Brian,

Good timing! We have the GT86 on test this week. Here it is on the very twisty and very bumpy Dublin Mountain roads:

Review will be done in time, but I can confirm that it's even more impressive here than it was at the launch in Spain. Its small size and low weight are ideally suited to tight and twisty roads and though firm, the suspension deals with rough surfaces and bumps (even mid-corner) brilliantly. The none-too low profile tyres no doubt help with that.

On the open road it's hugely engaging and very fast. It feels weightless and while it goes where you point it there's a lot of movement underneath if you want it. Turn off traction control and it regularly slides too - though don't expect big drifts on the public road!

While it is lacking a little in low-down torque, it's only an issue for overtaking, as the car feels quick at all times, and is very quick if you use all the revs.

Away from driving for the fun of it, the GT86 is still brilliant. Some might not get it, and it's not quiet, but it even works well in town, where its small size, quick steering and relatively supple suspension mean it doesn't feel at all out of place.

Overall: a fabulous car. Really works on Irish roads. Really special.

Expert answer

Hi Dermot,

This doesn't appear to be very good value to us. Even though your Passat is probably only worth €1,000 or so to the dealer, the mileage of the Santa Fe is above average and the price is therefore quite optimistic - though clearly the service, tyres and NCT make it considerable more appealing.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Simon,

That is a lovely car, but you need to be prepared for the high running costs. Annual road tax alone is €1,683, while it's also heavy on fuel. No doubt it has low profile tyres as well, which are expensive to replace.

It seems to have very low mileage for the year, so make sure you get that verified. If it's right then it's still fairly fresh, but this generation of the 3 Series is expensive to maintain once the miles rack up.

Go into the deal with your eyes open and it could still be a great car for you.

Expert answer

Hi John,

I'm afraid this is not something unique to the Kia Rio. Loads of new cars now come with this sealant kit instead of a spare wheel. Many motoring journalists in Ireland (ourselves included) are actively against this, but as car makers hope to reduce weight and cost this is the way it's going. It also frees up boot space - not that that matters to the hapless motorist stranded in the middle of nowhere with a hole in their tyre...

Final note - it's often not up to the Irish distributor to make the decision to offer a car with a spare wheel, but it's worth checking with a dealer before you put down a deposit if it's an option - and negotiate not to pay for it.

Expert answer

Hi Pierce,

Overall it's proving to be a reliable car with no major mechanical issues. There are a few things to watch out for on used examples, including uneven front tyre wear - indicating that the alignment is out. Scan the dashboard for warning lights too, as the particulate filters clog if the car isn't used at higher speed very often - and there are isolated reports of issues with the electronic parking brake.

Finally, ensure all the seat belts are in good order - including the adjusters - and that the electric windows all work as you'd expect them to.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Keith,

Yes you can is the simple answer. However, for the speedometer to remain accurate you'll need to ensure that the overall diameter of the combined tyre and wheel remains the same. That means a 14-inch wheel will need a deeper profile tyre than you had on your 15-inch rim.

If you need more explanation come back to us and we'll talk you through it.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

It does indeed have full-time four-wheel drive. It's called xDrive and in normal use the power is split 68:32 rear to front but this can be varied to as much as 100% rear-wheel drive.

Larger cars like SUVs are always a little harder on tyres, but the X3 is not unusual in that regards. It has a good reputation for reliability with no known suspension problems.

Hope that helps.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

On its own, the RAV4 2.0 D-4D is a fine car, with loads of power. It has plenty of low-down torque for towing too, though how heavy is your caravan? The manual Santa Fe has a higher towing capacity and it's a heavier car too, which will help in certain situations. Added to that, the Hyundai has more power and torque - (assuming you're talking about the newer 2.2-litre model) though obviously you pay for that with fuel consumption and tax.

Both cars have a good reputation for reliability though in fact it's the Toyota that has some history of issues - particularly with RAV4s used as tow cars. Apparently early versions (pre-2003) had transmission problems, though we'd hope the 2005 model is better.

Still, based on what you've said, we reckon the Santa Fe is the better bet in this instance, especially the newer model launched in 2006.

Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Abdullah,

It's not the usual kind of question we get and obviously you should only do such things on a private piece of land! Assuming you've properly disengaged the traction control (you have to hold down the button for 10 seconds), put the transmission into manual control so you change gears with the paddles behind the steering wheel. Drifting is all about the initiation and without a mechanical handbrake or clutch you'll need a combination of power and momentum (depending on the model you have).

Until you're comfortable with it, it's best to start off slow. Approach the bend, brake so that the weight transfers to the front tyres, release the brakes and start to turn. As soon as you do, get on the throttle and be ready to feather it and add some opposite lock. You will need to be in a low enough gear for the engine's torque to overcome the rear tyres, but not so low that you run out of revs early.

This is only one way of doing it. There's no substitute for practice, so get yourself along to a Mondello Park test day and experiment in a safe environment - and never practise on the public road.

Final word: don't expect to be able to drift for very long if you have a diesel XF. Most diesel cars have a very narrow power band that makes them tricky at the best of times.

Have fun...

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

That's a lot of questions! Let's start with the Santa Fe. Your budget is likely to limit you to the last of the older generation. It's a tough piece of kit, but not great on the road in terms of comfort. It's reliable, though expensive enough to maintain. Early versions had clutch judder, but this should have been fixed in later versions with a new flywheel. We've not heard about diesel pump and injector trouble.

Given that budget we'd rather the Hyundai Tucson. There are plenty of them about and it's much nicer to drive on the road. Saying that, it's a good deal smaller than the Santa Fe. It's not as expensive to service however. It's the same story with the older Sportage, though we'd prefer the Tucson.

The RAV4 is a fine choice all-round. It's generally reliable and good on the road. I wouldn't be very worried about extra wear and tear in the driveline.

Don't forget about the Nissan X-Trail, Honda CR-V and Suzuki Grand Vitara. All worth a closer look.

Has that helped you create a shortlist?

Expert answer

Hi Mary,

I'm afraid you've not given us enough information to answer that properly. We'd need to know the exact size and ideally the version of the X5 you have. Expect not far off €300, but again that'll depend on the brand.

Come back to us with more details and we'll get a few prices for you.

Expert answer

Hi Dave,

This Laguna has a bad reputation, as you said. The two largest customer and reliability surveys in this part of the world consistently put it near the bottom in its class, which is not great, especially if you're considering a high mileage example.

However, because of all that the prices are low and I am guessing that you've got a bargain.

So, first thing to look at is if the car has had all its recall work done. Call a Renault dealer with its chassis number to confirm, as there were several recalls that applied to this car.

As with any used car check that every switch and control is working as expected and that all the warning lights come on when you turn on the ignition and go off again when the car is started.

Apparently the tyre pressure sensors are inaccurate as well, so check the pressures with a gauge for yourself.

Best of luck

Expert answer

Hi Richard,

Lots of potential reasons for this. Very first thing I'd look at is tyre pressures. Are they all even and to spec? Are there any other issues with the tyres you can see? Uneven wearing, etc. If no problems with pressures I'd suggest getting the alignment checked. If it gets knocked out (relatively easy to do with a pothole or kerb) then there could be more friction causing heavier fuel consumption.

Come back to us when you've checked that.

Expert answer

Hi Justin,

Let's break it down into chunks. First of all, safety. Here are the crash test results from Euro NCAP:

Skoda: five stars on new system

Saab: five stars on old system

Volvo: four stars on old system

Looks like the Volvo loses out there, though it's a safe car by most standards.

In terms of reliability, the Skoda has no reported issues. The Saab doesn't fare so well, with plenty of electrical issues and problems with the suspension. Check for uneven tyre wear and that all the switches are working - every single one. The Volvo is a little better, but has a few known problems, with random electrical gremlins and several recalls. If you're serious about that one get confirmation that the recall work has been completed. Also, it should have its timing belt, tensioners and pulleys changed every four years so best to check that it has been done.

Assuming you're looking at the 105hp Superb, then the combined cycle consumption was quoted at about 5.7 litres/100km (50mpg) and it is a frugal car. The 150hp Saab uses a fraction more fuel (5.8 litres/100km) on the combined cycle, while the 136hp Volvo also uses 5.7 litre/100km.

So in summary, for us it would be between the Skoda and the Volvo. They're both comfortable and spacious, though we'd trust the reliability of the Superb more given the data.

Hope that helps.

Expert answer

Hi Rob,

It's tempting to save money on tyres, but it's impossible to understate how important they are. As you've found out for yourself!

Personally I like the security of having winter tyres on at this time of year. I acknowledge that there are extra costs involved, plus some inconvenience in terms of changing them twice a year and storing the other tyres. However, I was converted last year when I experienced the difference first hand.

Saying all that, and despite two bad winters, the statistics still say that Ireland's climate is too mild to warrant having winter tyres on for a long period. If we do get heavy, sustained snow then snow socks will get most people out of a tricky situation at low speeds, but they have limitations.

So, assuming you'd rather not fork out on two sets of tyres in the next few months, what are your options? Well Bridgestone offers a good compromise called the A001 All Weather tyre. Sounds like it'd be perfect for you? I spoke to Bridgestone and there are limitations on the size they do - or have in stock - but take a look for a stockist though www.bridgestone.ie and take it from there.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Alison,

The recommeded pressures should be printed in your car's manual and also on a plate, usually located on the door frame when you open one of the front doors. Sometimes it's inside the fuel filler cap too.

Based on the information you've given, we'd assume that you have 185/65 R14 tyres. If so, the fronts should be 2.3 bar/34psi and the rears should be 2.1 bar/31psi.

If you can't find the recommended values on the car and we have the tyre size wrong come back and let us know.

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Depending where you are in the world people refer to winter tyres as that or snow tyres. However, there are also more extreme tyres available specifically for driving on snow and ice that have metal studs in them.

Winter tyres that are suitable for Irish roads could be used all year around, though they do wear quicker in warmer weather. Likewise, in warmer weather they have less grip than a normal tyre. However, they come into their own in temperatures below +7 degrees centigrade (yes, that warm), as they don't harden. That means they're of use even if you're on a bone-dry road in low temperatures. On top of that they have 'sipes' cut into the rubber that massively increased grip on snow and ice.

Whether it's worth fitting them in Ireland is up for debate. Historically we only have a few days a year in which these tyres would be the best option, but the past two years have certainly increased the perception that we have cold, snowy winters. They are invaluable in such circumstances. Not only do they enhance traction to make it easier to climb hills, they also make it safer and easier to turn and stop.

A good value alternative to have in the boot that'll keep you going (at lower speeds) is snow socks.

Hope that helps.

Expert answer

Hi Blake,

You really shouldn't drive any further with the car in this state. It sounds like the pads have not been fitted correctly and the wheel should be removed and the brakes inspected by a qualified mechanic. We'd like to help, but it really is something that needs to be physically seen.

Good luck with it.

Expert answer

Hi Ruairi,

Hi Ruairi, with regard to this we received some good advice from The Automotif Centre on the Kinsale Road in Cork, who said "The BMW 116 hub is 72.5, PCD is 5x120. The suspension is designed for runflats. Steel wheel bolts are shorter & 12x1.5."

Expert answer

Hi Ciaran,

The Sorento is known for being robust and generally mechanically sound. However, its suspension was never the most comfortable. Your car is very low mileage so I would be surprised if anything in the suspension needs to be replaced as yet. One option would be to ask a mechanic to replace the dampers with high quality items. They'll cost more though.

Before you do that I'd urge you to try to get your hands on another example of the Sorento - from a dealer or something - to compare back-to-back with your own over the same bumpy road. Only then can you know if there's a problem.

Finally, check the tyre pressures as well and make sure they're within spec.

Hope that helps in some way.

Expert answer

Expert answer

Hi Barbara,

It is always hard to give a proper price estimate on a car without knowing the mileage and condition but you should expect to be offered around €12,000 for the Avensis depending on the condition and the dealer you go to.

The RAV4 would probably be worth around €14,500 as a trade-in. It is not unheard of for two cars to be traded-in, but you generally have to find a pretty understanding dealer or one who really wants the cars you have to trade-in. Remember that a dealer has to service your trade-in, perhaps put new tyres on it and add a warranty, so this all adds cost. 

I hope this helps. 

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Two new models have been launched in the Skoda Yeti range and these make up part of a strong model line-up for 2011, which will include a new 4.9 per cent finance offering on Yeti models. Skoda, as part of the Volkswagen Group, will offer finance through its own bank.

The two new models in the Skoda Yeti range are a 1.6-litre TDI Greenline that has 105hp and replaces the 2.0-litre 100hp diesel. It has emissions of 119g/km, which means it sits in motor tax band A.

The car features stop-start technology, low-rolling resistance tyres and brake energy recuperation. Prices start at €23,165 for the Greenline Active, €24,125 for the Ambition model and €26,035 for the Experience.

Also on offer for the first time is the 4x4 version. It comes with a 2.0-litre diesel engine putting out 170hp and with emissions of 155g/km it sits in motor tax band C.

There are Ambition and Experience specifications available for this model and prices are €29,545 for the Ambition and €31,480 for the Experience.

Skoda sold 775,000 cars worldwide in 2010, but has ambitions to sell 1.5 million by 2015. It will launch several new models to the line-up between now and then.

A small A-segment car that will take on the Ford Ka and Toyota iQ will go on sale in 2013, followed by a replacement to the Skoda Octavia that same year. A new version of the Skoda Roomster comes in 2014 and that same year a new version of the Fabia will arrive.

The new Yeti models are now in dealerships. 

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi William,

We'd be only too happy to help you choose a new car if that's the route you want to go down, but one suggestion we'd have that could save you the cost of changing cars is to change the tyres on your Santa Fe to winter tyres.

Many people think that winter tyres are only of use in snow and ice, but that's far from the case. Regular tyres begin to go hard (and hence lose grip) at just seven degrees Celsius. That's regardless of how wet or dry the road surface is. Winter tyres, however, do not go hard at these temperatures and hence retain much higher levels of grip.

It's often said that a two-wheel drive car on winter tyres is better in slippery conditions than a four-wheel drive car on regular tyres.

I have first-hand experience of using winter tyres over the past week and I can confirm that they really make a huge difference. Bear in mind that they help with braking and turning, as well as traction.

You may have heard people say that winter tyres wear out quicker, but actually that's not the case at this time of year. When the temperatures are low, regular tyres wear quicker than winter tyres.

Admittedly, winter tyres wear quicker and their braking performance isn't as impressive as a regular tyre's in warm weather.

There's no doubt that winter tyres are more expensive to buy, but it'd be cheaper than changing your car.

If, however, you want to change your car regardless, come back to us and we'll help you through it.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

The answer really depends on the type of four-wheel drive you have. Most road-biased SUVs and crossovers with four-wheel drive apportion the engine output to the wheels with the most grip. Some won't use four-wheel drive unless slip is detected anyway. In those cars it makes sense to leave the car in four-wheel drive mode all the time, certainly in the snowy weather we have right now. Best to not get stuck rather than turning on the four-wheel drive when you might already be having an issue.

Some four-wheel drives have a 'differential lock', which makes sure that all the wheels receive equal amounts of power. That should only be used in really tricky conditions, as the car won't be very responsive to turning and the tyres would wear out quicker on a normal road in that mode.

Hope that helps, but feel free to ask us more.

Expert answer

Renault have come back to us with the information. 

The pressures in are front: 2.1 bar (30 psi)and rear 2.0 bar (29 psi) on the 225/55 R17s.

If you do a lot of motorway driving then these should be 2.2 bar (32 psi) front and 2.0 bar (29 psi) rear.

I hope this helps.

Expert answer

Hi Carl,

The thing about fuel economy figures from the manufacturer is that they are often very difficult to match. We seldom match them, as they are recorded using specific lab conditions and are often not really reflective of real-world conditions.

There are some things you can do to improve your fuel economy however:

1 Pump up to cut down 

Under-inflated tyres create more resistance. That means your engine has to work harder, so more fuel is used. Check and adjust your tyre pressures regularly, and also before long journeys.

2 Less clutter means less CO₂ 

Clutter in your boot is extra weight in your car. By removing it, you could reduce your engine's workload. This will burn less fuel.

3 Drive at an appropriate speed 

Staying at or within the speed limit not only increases driver safety, it also reduces fuel consumption. At 110km/h you could be using nine percent more fuel than at 100km/h, and up to 15 percent more fuel than at 80km/h.

4 Less stopping and starting 

Every time you stop then start again in a traffic queue the engine uses more fuel. Keep an eye on the traffic ahead and slow down early by gently lifting your foot off the accelerator while keeping the car in gear. The traffic may have started moving again by the time you reach the vehicle in front, so you can change up a gear and be on your way.

5 Over-revving accelerates emissions 

Modern car engines are designed to be efficient from the moment they are switched on, so revving up like a Formula 1 car in pole position only wastes fuel and increases engine wear. Using your gears wisely by changing up a gear a little earlier can also reduce revs.

6 Idling is wasting fuel 

When the engine is idling, you're wasting fuel. If you're likely to be at a standstill for more than three minutes, simply switch off the engine.

 – Source: Defra UK

Expert answer

The run flat tyre is designed to allow you to drive home safely even if there is a loss of inflation, but a consequence of that would be that you would dispose of the tyre after that and get a new one. The reason for this is that the sidewall is very thick and it is difficult to examine this for damage. Here is what Bridgestone have to say about it on their Run-Flat website:

"It depends on how far and at what speed the car was driven after the puncture was sustained. Repair is possible only if deemed so by the tyre sales store. Preconditions include a puncture of less than 6mm for both side-reinforced type and support-ring type Run-Flat tyres, plus minimal damage to the support ring in case of the latter. However, it is strongly recommended that the tyre is replaced as its durability will have been weakened after being repaired."

A Continental Tyres spokesperson told us, "you should not repair or put back in service self supporting runflat (SSR) tyres that have been damaged or run flat. This is because it is impossible to know what internal damage has been caused to a tyre that has been run on flat."

Obviously this could end up being expensive if you have to get a new tyre every time you get a puncture, but the idea is that if you do have a puncture you can drive home safely and don't have to be left stranded at the side of the road.

Expert answer

Hi Alec,

First, the disclaimer: a huge number of factors will influence your average fuel consumption, including the route you take; whether your tyres are inflated correctly; if you're driving around with a boot full of golf clubs; and of course how you drive.

All that aside, a good rough estimation is to split the official combined and urban economy figures. This varies for every car but I think you should use about 6.0 litres/100km - which is 47mpg in old money.

Let me know if you want a few basic tips on how to improve your economy and how to measure your consumption precisely.

Expert answer

Hi, we have put this question to Bridgestone and we will come back to you with an answer as soon as possible.

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

I recently drove the Golf BlueMotion and the review will go up shortly, but what I can say is that I was really very impressed by the car for a number of reasons. Obviously this is the full BlueMotion version and that differs slightly to the 'BlueMotion Technology' model that we have seen before. 

This new car gets a full raft of eco measures. There is Stop/Start, regenerative braking, a modified radiator grille, low rolling resistance tyres and a specially tuned diesel engine. The result is emissions of 99g/km and fuel economy of 3.4 l/100km. Now, you would want to be really hyper-miling to get those figures but we got close to that on our few days with the car. The economy was really staggering. 

There is 105hp from the 1.6-litre diesel and it isn't a rocket: 0-100km/h takes 11.3 seconds. It is however, a very nice car to drive. It doesn't feel slow because it is geared well. And it is a nice place to be. For the price, it is quite well equipped. 

Obviously, price is an issue. There is no real incentive to buy this car for its emissions like there is in other markets. In some markets, such as the UK, if your car has less than 100g/km you don't pay road tax, but here everything under 120g/km is Band A and the Ford Focus 1.6 D Style will cost you about the same to run, yet is €1,545 cheaper to buy. 

To answer your original question though, if I was buying a Golf, yes this is the one I would have (aside from the GTI of course). I really liked it. 

You also have to look at the Skoda Octavia too. For €23,820 you could have an Octavia with the same engine, but with the DSG automatic transmission. Hope this helps, feel free to come back to us if you have any more questions.

Expert answer

Hi Jerry,

Do you mean you'd like to fit smaller wheels to your car or fit smaller tyres to your existing wheels? The 'R17' part of your tyre size name means they fit 17-inch diameter wheels. You cannot fit R16 tyres to larger wheels.

If that doesn't answer your question please leave a comment in the box below and we'll come back to you again.

Thank you

Expert answer

Hi James,

We'd like to put this one to BMW and a tyre expert. Can you tell me what size tyres you have, the brand they are and whether you have any relevant extras like sports suspension? Just post the details in the comment section below.

Thank you

Expert answer

Hi Patricia,

The correct tyre pressures for the Citroen Xsara from 1997-2000 are 31 psi front and rear, but you might want to adjust this upwards slightly if you carry a fully laden car.

Remember to check your tyre pressures every 2 weeks to ensure you have the correct pressure as under-inflation can cause uneven tyre wear and decrease fuel economy. You can buy small devices to check your tyre pressure at places like Halfords or other car parts outlets.

As regards the Xsara owner's handbook, you could go down the route of getting them from a dealer, but we reckon eBay is your best (and cheapest) bet. We found one for around a tenner here

Hope this helps!

Expert answer

Hi Ciaran.

Funnily enough, I was just last week at a tyre event and we got a full briefing on tyre wear, which I knew would come in useful somehow.

Firstly, no this isn't normal wear at all unless you were on a track racing. I take it that you aren't and from what you are saying the wear is even. Usually shoulder wear is a sign of under-inflation. Under-inflation can also lead to tyre blow-outs.

Drivers should check their tyre pressure every two weeks according to the manufacturers. One-sided wear is usually an alignment issue and that doesn't seem to be the case here.

Anyway, we contacted Bridgestone / Firestone on your behalf and they are happy to send out an engineer to inspect your tyres. I have sent you their details. They want to check out if there is a fault and we can take it from there.

What we will say about tyres is that it does not make economical sense to buy cheap ones. They tend to be of lower quality and there is no wisdom in having poor tyres on your car. See how you get on with the engineer and let us know by posting a comment back on this page.

Hope that helps.