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Hi Cathal,

The Qashqai would be a reliable car in general terms, although they do tend to suffer from sagging suspension and occasional turbocharger failure on the diesel model. The engine management system can also go awry. The Corolla is perhaps not as perfectly reliable as is sometimes painted, but overall I’d expect it to be a little more reliable than the Nissan. 

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Hi Karen,

I wouldn’t be cautious as such, but you should make sure that they will stand over any issues that the NCT flags up. Obviously, if it flies through the test then there’s no problem, but don’t let them try and fob off any issues on you. If they’re selling the car to you, in whatever form, they should be prepared to back that up. If they won’t do so, ask why they’re happy to sell the car, but not to stand over its quality.

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Hi Richard,

We asked Eddie Coleman of Conlan Crotty Murray & Company Chartered Accountants for some help on this one and here was his response:

"For a self-employed VAT-registered sole trader the most tax efficient vehicle to purchase for business use would be a small commercial van/SUV.  As the private use element of the vehicle is likely to be minimal VAT could be recovered on such a vehicle in the proportion that business use bears to the total usage of the vehicle.  As there should be a high business usage of the vehicle most of the running costs of the vehicle, such as insurance, fuel, maintenance, etc. could be expensed for tax purposes, again in the proportion that business usage bears to overall use of the vehicle.

If an individual decides that a small commercial vehicle is not appropriate and decides to purchase a car then there would be very limited tax deductibility for VAT purposes.  If a car falling into Category A, B or C is acquired, then 20 per cent of the VAT paid on purchase of the vehicle could be recovered where at least 60 per cent or more of the usage of the car is for business purposes.  There is a potential claw back of the VAT recovered if the car is sold within two years of acquisition.

If the car is acquired by way of a hire purchase agreement or loan finance then the vehicle is treated as owned by the individual.  The capital cost in those instances can be claimed by way of an annual capital allowance write-off equivalent to 12.5 per cent of the cost of the vehicle, restricted to business use as a proportion of overall use of the vehicle.  If a new vehicle is being acquired then it may be possible to do so by way of a finance lease.  In such circumstances it may be possible to write-off the capital cost of the vehicle over a shorter time frame, again subject to business use restriction on the allowable tax deduction."

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Hi Philip,

The stories about jump-starting a car frying its 'delicate' electronics is absolute garbage. As long as you connect the two batteries together correctly (or, as you point out, a jump-start pack) then you should be fine. Not everything on the internet is true, remember...

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Hi Ignacio,

There are two hybrids that are far cheaper than anything else, but we have to mention both as they’re slightly different in the way their hybrid systems work. The cheapest full hybrid is the Toyota Yaris Hybrid, which starts at €19,250 and which has impressively low CO₂ emissions of just 75g/km.

Toyota has also recently updated the Yaris Hybrid so that it’s much nicer to drive than it used to be. The other is the slightly cheaper Suzuki Baleno 1.2 DualJet, which isn’t a full hybrid like the Yaris, but a mild hybrid that uses a smaller battery and clever starter/generator to take strain off the engine to help save fuel. That emits 94g/km and costs from €18,995.

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Hi Debra,

It’s kind of difficult for us to diagnose a car over the internet unfortunately, but it sounds as if you may have a whole host of problems there. You’re quite right in that rattles are often something to do with either the timing belt or chain or the camshaft mechanism, but if you’re getting multiple fault codes on a diagnostic it could be that there’s a bigger issue that is causing lots of systems to develop issues. Have you brought it to a Volkswagen main dealer yet? That would be our recommended course of action.

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Hi James,

It depends; do you mean the first-generation 9-5, which was in production from 1996 to 2009 or do you mean the short-lived last-of-the-line 9-5, which only survived in production for two years before Saab went bust?

If it’s the first generation car then the rating is a little mixed. It was always well thought of in terms of overall quality, comfort and driving dynamics, but there were a number of annoying, niggling reliability issues with that model, although at least with the 1.9-litre diesel engine you’re avoiding the troublesome 2.2-litre model.

If it’s the later, second-generation version of the 9-5 then it is indeed very well thought of, and generally considered one of Saab’s best cars. It’s just a shame that it was also its last.

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Hi James,

Usually you can get so-called 'bridging' insurance from a UK-based insurer to cover the car for a few weeks on it original plates etc. to deal with this sort of situation. I think a quick ring-round should see you right. 

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Hi Fergal,

Well, it depends on which model you're looking at. In general buying an automatic these days doesn't have the fuel consumption (and CO₂) penalties of old, although it's fair to say that not all automatics are equal. They can be very expensive up front though (BMW asks €2,500 for an auto) and, depending on the car, you won't always make that back at resale time. Certainly on a Ford you might struggle with automatic resale, but a BMW or Audi should do better as people expect the auto in those. 

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Hi Niamh,

Well, obviously we would advise you to get the car to a garage, preferably a Suzuki one, pretty quick. We can’t diagnose a problem on a car we’ve never seen, but the ticking and smoking does indeed suggest either a starter motor or ignition issue, so it may not be all that expensive to fix, especially if it’s just a wiring problem.

Generally, for most so-called ‘scrappage’ deals (they’re not actually scrappage at all, but trade-in boosters) the cars do indeed need to be running and drive onto the forecourt under their own power, so if you want to use it for that purpose, you’ll need to get it running again somehow.