When will the new Volvo XC90 be on sale in Ireland?
When will the new Volvo XC90 be on sale in Ireland and do you expect it to be priced much higher than the current model? I am interested in one for next year.
Thanks
Andrew Kelly (Limerick)Jul 2014 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Andrew,
We asked Volvo Ireland about this. Here's what we were told:
"The Volvo XC90 will be launched at the Paris Motor Show in early October 2014. We expect first deliveries of the car in early 2015.
We expect to have prices confirmed in time for the Paris Motor Show.
Please contact your local Volvo Dealer to be kept updated on the latest news.
There is also a link on our website to keep the customer updated on any XC90 information that gets released: http://www.volvocars.com/ie/all-cars/all-new-volvo-xc90/pages/keep-me-updated.aspx "
For your information Andrew, we'll be at the global reveal of the XC90 on August 25th if we can help you answer anything else.
Does the clutch bite point vary between cars?
When testing a demo 2014 Volkswagen Jetta, low mileage, I found the clutch bite point to be high compared to my Opel Astra's. Is this normal for Volkswagen cars?
Frank Dodd (Dublin)Jul 2014 Filed under: miscellaneous
Expert answer
Hi F D,
In my experience the clutch bite point can vary between different examples of the same car so I wouldn't read anything into that, especially as your own car will change slowly over time as the friction disc of the clutch pack wears.
When can I get hold of the new Volvo XC90?
Do you know if the new model Volvo XC90 will be here in January or is it more likely mid-2015? Also any idea what price level it will be? I would expect it to be more expensive than the current model but will they try and pitch it at BMW X5/Audi Q7?
Andrew Kelly (Limerick)Jul 2014 Filed under: future cars
Expert answer
Hi Andrew,
We asked Volvo Ireland this for you and here's the response:
"The Volvo XC90 will be launched at the Paris Motor Show in early October 2014. We expect first deliveries of the car in early 2015.
We expect to have prices confirmed in time for the Paris Motor Show.
Please contact your local Volvo Dealer to be kept updated on the latest news.
There is also a link on our website to keep the customer updated on any XC90 information that gets released:
http://www.volvocars.com/ie/all-cars/all-new-volvo-xc90/pages/keep-me-updated.aspx"
Hope that helps
Any reliability issues with the Mercedes-Benz E-Class?
2005 Mercedes-Benz E 320 CDI saloon auto: any common issues in terms of reliability on this motor?
Conor Kehoe (Limerick)Jun 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Conor,
Yes, Mercedes suffered no end of electrical, steering and braking issues with that generation of E-Class. A pretty full and complete campaign of recalls and replacements and extended warranties have ironed out a lot of the bugs by now, and the 320 CDI engine has always been a tough, long-lived unit, but make sure you check absolutely every single electrical item and ensure that they're all working properly and if there's even the slightest gap in the service history, walk away.
Should this dealer replace my engine for me?
I bought a Hyundai i30 off a dealer last July; I paid €6,500 with my own car, which I got €1,600 for. I had six months warranty and in March I discovered an oil leak and brought it to my own garage just up the road. He put in a seal and it cost €100. Then in May the starter went in the car so I had to pay €400 for a new starter.
Then last week I was driving down the road and without warning the car just started to seize. I pulled in and turned off the engine. It was leaking a lot of oil and my local garage collected it. I decided to ring the person I bought it from when I discovered that the engine was gone in my car. I was shocked and expressed my concern to the dealer I bought it from. He told me my warranty was out and that he was not liable, though he said if I paid for an engine that he would fit it free of charge. This will cost me €800 to €1,000 on top of what I paid for the car. My local dealer told me that the engine had been opened before and he found this strange. My question is, is the dealer who sold me the car liable considering it was the engine?
Martina Murphy (Kerry)Jun 2014 Filed under: warranty
Expert answer
Hi Martina,
OK. In the strictest terms the dealer is right - if the car is out of warranty then there's nothing he legally has to do. The fact that you took it to your own mechanic in the first instance also probably gives him a get-out clause. Check the fine print of the warranty to see if it includes a coda about where the car must be serviced and maintained in order to keep the warranty in place.
Now, there are a couple of other things worth considering. If the engine was genuinely faulty, and you can prove that the dealer in question knew about this before he sold it to you, then you have a case under the Sale Of Goods And Supply Of Services Act. It would be very tricky to prove beyond a reasonable doubt though. The fact that he's offering a reduced rate to replace the engine could either be interpreted as a sincere gesture of goodwill or the act of a guilty conscience.
Either way, it's worth doing two things. Put pressure on the dealer, warranty or no warranty, to replace the engine free of charge - simply because a car is out of warranty, a major component like the engine shouldn't be failing in this day and age. Secondly, have a word with your solicitor and see what they make of it. You may have a case.
Finally, how old is the car in question? If it's under five years old, then it should still be covered by Hyundai's own unlimited mileage warranty.
Let us know how you get on
Help me find something interesting for €5,000.
Oh noble and all knowing oracles, whose driving gloves I am not fit to clean, I beseech thee. How best can I spend my €5k credit union loan to replace the daily hack, given I have many motorway miles to go each morning, and miles to go before I sleep? How much hybrid can I get; are they all knackered by now? Or am I consigned to TDI/HDi/diesel ownership, with the vagaries of DMF grenades and DPF clogginess to contend with? Is there a smart petrol alternative I've missed? It doesn't need to be big, just clever... and frugal, and reliable, and appealing to the lady-folk, and not a complete joyless, soul-sucking experience to drive. I'm not asking for much, am I?
Cian, Ha! (35 1/2)
Cian Hanrahan (Ennis)Jun 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
FULL DISCLOSURE: Cian is known to us at CompleteCar.ie through the medium of Twitter. Friend of the show, you might say...
Hi Cian,
Given that we know you I'm half-tempted to steer you into some hilariously disastrous classic car cul-de-sac, then sit back and watch the carnage unfold. However, I know you've already been there and done that so I won't.
Instead, I'm going to go out on a major limb, put my journalistic reputation to the test and recommend an Alfa Romeo. Yup, an Alfa. Your budget should get you into a 2007 or 2008 159 1.8-litre petrol MPI version. The 159 was always a ruggedly built car and while it's still occasionally prone to the classic Alfa electrical glitches, it's also probably the most all-round reliable car ever to come out of Milan.
It's also utterly gorgeous. reasonably spacious and really very good to drive. True, the 1.9 diesel would be more economical but it doesn't sound as good as the petrol. Enjoy, and let us know if anything goes explosively pop!
Honda CR-V or Hyundai Santa Fe?
Hi,
I'm currently driving a Land Rover Freelander TD4 and am looking to change. I am considering a 2008 Honda CR-V EX 1.9 petrol or a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.1 diesel. I am based in Dublin but do a good bit of driving around the country. Can you please let me know about the performance and reliability (potential problems) of these two cars, and point out any other vehicles I should be considering. My budget is a max of €14,000.
Joe Harbourne (Dublin)Jun 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Joe,
Both excellent choices although it's worth pointing out that the petrol-powered Honda will struggle more to hold on to any value as the market is so diesel-obsessed at the moment. Still, that means prices are cheaper for you at buying time...
As with all Hondas, the CR-V is remarkably reliable, although this model has suffered from some issues. There have been some problems with trim scratching and scuffing too easily, as well as problems with the alternators. Some have had issues with the gearbox too and high front tyre wear. You should also check carefully underneath to make sure that any previous owner hasn't been taking the 4x4 bit too seriously.
That goes equally for the Hyundai and the good news here too is that reliability is excellent. The only regularly reported problems with the Santa Fe are that the air conditioning system can need regular re-gassing and that the stereo is pretty rubbish.
Both will be expensive to run though. The CR-V has CO2 emissions of 194g/km so motor tax is going to be pricey. Despite being diesel, the Hyundai is no better, with CO2 emissions of 191g/km. Both will average around 35mpg in regular driving.
I have to admit to a small bias - my father-in-law has owned his 2.0-litre petrol CR-V from new in 2007 and loves it. It's been massively reliable (only ever needing a replacement alternator) and he regularly gets better than 40mpg from it. That said, the Hyundai is also an excellent vehicle and I would say both are safe bets - try some test drives and see which one you prefer and let us know which way you go.
Why won't my Octavia start properly when it's cold?
I have a 1999 Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI diesel. When the engine is cold it's almost inpossible too start. What do you think is the problem? When the engine is warm its starts directly. It is any typical thing?
Bjarne Rålund (Dublin)Jun 2014 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Bjarne,
The first thing we'd check are the heater plugs. They're not cheap though, so have an auto electrician test them before you shell out money paying for their replacement.
Can you help me choose what to do about my car situation?
Hi, I am currently driving a 2000 Toyota Yaris that has only just hit the 100k mileage mark (mainly clocked up in last three years). Still has a bit of life left in it with a bit of work, but I have been looking to change. I've done some test drives and have my eye on a Peugeot 307 1.4 diesel circa 2011, as the Volkswagen Golf was a bit out of my price range (< €10k) and I travel quite a bit for work.
Circumstances have changed though and I no longer have such a long commute to work so wondering should I invest and hang on to the old 'lady' a while longer, go for a different model/make (2008-2010), which would reduce cost, or can you recommend/suggest anything that would give me value for money, that's reliable and economically sound?
Bit of a tall order maybe but any advice would be great.
Thanks in advance, N
Nicky Dunne (Dublin)May 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Nicky,
OK, I think you have a couple of options here. First off, assuming you have a friendly, trustworthy mechanic who looks after your Yaris, it's worth having a word with them to find out how much life they realistically think is left in it and how much money you'll need to spend to keep it going. If the omens are good in that respect, then there's nothing wrong in the slightest with sticking with what you know and keeping your current, faithful steed.
If it's a poorer prognosis then I'd suggest sticking with what you know and simply upgrade to a newer Yaris. The model that's just been replaced was a fine car, sturdy as ever and really quite nice to drive. You won't go wrong. As an alternative, have a look at a Honda Jazz. They are usually a little more expensive than an equivalent Yaris but are more spacious inside and a little more technically advanced, so well worth a look.
Let us know how you get on
Can you tell me if the E60 BMW 5 Series is a good car?
Can you tell me if the 2005 BMW 520 (E60) 2.2 petrol is a good car?
Stephen O Brien (Dundalk)May 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Stephen,
The E60 was a terrific car but not without its faults. Listen carefully for any nasty noises coming from the suspension and check the steering to make sure it responds quickly and accurately and that there's no odd weighting in the power assistance. The run-flat tyres and the pressure monitoring system that goes with them can also play up, as can the first-gen iDrive system, so make sure all the electronics are working.
Finally, that last-of-the-line 2.2-litre straight-six was a fab engine but did occasionally suffer from some cooling and head gasket problems. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge during your test drive and check the service record (which should of course be full and complete) for any frequent revisits to the dealers to have the cooling looked at.
