Expert answer

Hi John,

First thing to check is the relevant fuses. F13, F16 or F17 are the ones you need to check, though failure of these would usually mean another system failing as well. Still, easy thing to check first.

After that it's a case of looking at the physical wiring.

If in any doubt, bring the car to a good mechanic.

Expert answer

Hi Tom,

A traditional 'dry' timing belt, mostly made of rubber, runs in air behind dust covers. A 'wet' belt is of similar construction but actually runs in oil behind sealed covers. The theory is that this reduces heat, friction and noise while enhancing reliability.

Unfortunately, the material of the belt can be damaged by contaminants in the oil itself, causing premature failure of the belt or other engine damage caused by bits of the belt clogging up other components.

Not every car that has a wet belt has an issue, but they certainly have a bad reputation.

Expert answer

Hi Marcin,

I’m afraid you may have gotten yourself into a bit of bother here, because the Revenue rulebook states that any vehicle being brought into the state must be announced to Revenue within a week of its arrival and have gone through he VRT process within 30 days.

Failure to pay VRT on time results in a penalty. Between 30 and 60 days overdue, you’ll pay a penalty equivalent to five per cent of the car’s Irish market value. If it’s more than 60 days, but less than six months, then it’s ten per cent. If it’s more than six months, then it’s an additional five per cent of the value for every month that you’re overdue. 

Expert answer

Hi Sylvie,

Unless there are extenuating circumstances, the taxes etc. are calculated when the car is presented for inspection. So, I'm afraid you're likely to have to pay the new fees. On top of that, you're supposed to inform Revenue of the car's importation within seven days and book an inspection within 30 days. Failure to do that means a fine. That fine increases the longer you wait, too, so don't delay any further. 

Expert answer

Hi Amponsah,

We can't be much help, I'm afraid. You've not told us anything about the car. Even so, we'd ideally need a chassis number, which you'll need to call the relevant parts department to find out the price of the correct component. It's best that you call them yourself.

Expert answer

Hi Gino,

That Ford 1.6 TDCi diesel engine is one of the most common engines around, as it has also been used by Mazda, Volvo, Peugeot, Citroen and MINI. It has one major vulnerable spot and that is that sooty, gummy deposits can build up in areas that are supposed to be kept cool and lubricated by oil. If the deposits build up enough, they can block the oil passage and cause component failure — most commonly of the turbocharger. The best way to prevent that happening is with regular servicing (at least once a year depending on mileage) and making sure that you always use a high-quality grade of synthetic oil for the engine.

The 1.6 petrol engine, the 100hp version, is a much simpler unit and it’s pretty reliable, mostly because it’s a much older design. It won’t be as economical nor as punchy in its performance as the diesel, but if it’s reliability you’re looking for, it might be the better option. 

Expert answer

Hi Darren,

I think the first thing to do is to ‘lawyer-up’. You’re going to need some professional legal advice on this one. Basically, the law is pretty simple - once a car is in the country, you have a week to notify Revenue and make the booking at the NCT centre to have the car inspected, and 30 days to complete the process and get the new plates. Failure to do so means that Revenue can seize the car and they will only release it at their discretion, and on payment of a hefty fine. Plus there’s the issue of any unpaid motor tax.

As a purchaser, you should never buy a car that’s in Ireland, but still on its foreign plates. The law says it must be re-registered before being sold on. However, if you can show that you bought the car in good faith, and intended to follow the normal VRT procedure, then there might be a way through this for you. Clearly, the bulk of the onus is on the previous owner, but you definitely need to have a good solicitor on your side for this one.

Expert answer

Hi Mark,

While anecdotal evidence suggests that there are differences between NCT test centres (and even testers), they are all supposed to follow the same NCT manual. We've scoured it and there doesn't appear to be a specific reference to the engine management light. However, there is allowance for a 'preliminary check' on the engine and a failure can be because of 'obvious engine defects'. That's quite open for interpretation and a tester could well decide that an engine management light on falls under that.

To be fair, if it is on, then it means there's something up with the emissions control system (or its sensors) and the car is not at the standard it should be. Hence I'd recommend getting the issue sorted before going for the NCT.

Expert answer

Hi Darren,

Unless the damage is very slight and not at all jagged, then yes, it probably will fail. An extract from the NCT manual as a reason for failure: "Secondary structural components missing, insecure, rustedor damaged to such an extent as to leave sharp edges."

Expert answer

Hi Henry,

You've not told us which engine your car has, but there are a few known issues with the 207 that it might be:

- The catalytic converter can break up internally, damaging the oxygen sensor, leading to poor performance.

- Engine coolant temperature sensor becomes faulty, causing poor performance, especially when cold.

- Turbocharger failure (on diesel models) due to build-up of sludge in oil supply pipe.

I must admit, I don't think it sounds like any of those, but it does sound like an electrical issue with a failed sensor from your description. It's very difficult to assess such things from afar.

My advice would be to bring the car to a different mechanic as a starting point.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

The biggest issue is the infamous N47 diesel timing chain problem. The engine was designed with a zero-maintenance timing chain, mounted at the back of the engine, which then proved prone to (costly) failures. Most will have been fixed or replaced by now, but it’s still something to be cautious of. The rest is mostly irritating electrical issues, but just make sure you don’t buy one without a very full service history.

Expert answer

Hi Leanne,

The set interval is every 160,000km or 10 years, but we would recommend getting the belt changed sooner than that — say at around 80,000km, just for safety’s sake. It’s a small extra expense to save a potentially catastrophic engine failure. Also, on that engine, beware of the oil pump leaking on the cam-belt and causing it to slip.

Expert answer

Hi Cathal,

The Qashqai would be a reliable car in general terms, although they do tend to suffer from sagging suspension and occasional turbocharger failure on the diesel model. The engine management system can also go awry. The Corolla is perhaps not as perfectly reliable as is sometimes painted, but overall I’d expect it to be a little more reliable than the Nissan. 

Expert answer

Hi Brian,

There have been intermittently reported issues with Toyota gearboxes across the board, from sticking shifts to complete failures, but they tend to be quite rare overall, so if the car you’re looking at has a full service history then it should be OK. Ask for a warranty if you're really worried about it.

Expert answer

Hi Liam,

This is a bit of a grey area. The NCT manual that the testers are supposed to adhere to makes no mention anywhere of a rear wiper, but generally we find that, if a car has something and it's broken, the testers will often flag it up as a possible failure. We wouldn't take the risk, especially as wipers are so cheap to replace.

Expert answer

Hi Raj,

Generally, I wouldn't think that a gearbox issue would damage an engine - it's usually the other way around, and if there were a gearbox issue, the engine management system should pick up on it and adjust things accordingly.

But... Audi gearboxes are usually pretty robust so the fact that this one has failed could be an indication that the car has been abused or not cared for properly. Fair enough, it could be a genuine 'just one of those things' failures, but it might be worth getting the car inspected by an independent engineer such as the AA to allay any fears. 

Expert answer

Hi Alan,

All are, in general, pretty solidly reliable cars as you would expect,  but the issues come with the added weight and complexity of those folding hard-tops. All three can suffer roof failure (often at the point of being half way up or down) and all three suffer equally from increased tyre and suspension wear relative to their hatchback cousins, not to mention higher fuel consumption. None, to be honest, are especially pleasant to drive.

Of the three, I’d say the Eos is the best built, the Focus by a slim margin the best to drive and the Astra fractionally the roomier in the back seat. As an alternative, what about an Audi A4 Cabriolet? You’d have to go for an older one to match the price, but it’s a better car and a better convertible than any of these. Alternatively, if you don’t need the back seats, get a Mazda MX-5 – literally the only small convertible that’s actually worth buying.

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Not bad actually – comfy and hugely economical, but check it carefully for electrical faults and clonking suspension, not to mention any possibility of diesel particulate filter failure. And don’t dare buy it if it doesn’t have a full service history.

Expert answer

Hi Wendy,

Um, I'm afraid you're into a bit of bother here. Since 2013 if a car is going to be taken off the road, you have to declare it in advance with a form available at all Garda stations. Failure to do so is quite a serious offence, and 'forgetting' won't be accepted as an excuse. 

I hope you've got a good solicitor...

Expert answer

Hi Amrinder,

There was a recall for 2.2-litre Mazda6 diesels to replace a stretching timing chain, so check to see if that work has been carried out and don't buy a car that hasn't had the work done. Any car with a full (and preferably Mazda main dealer) service history should be fine though.

However, the DPF issue is down to your driving - if you're not putting in the miles, the DPF can't get hot enough to clean itself out and that's when you get problems, so don't go for one of these cars (or any diesel, really) if you're only doing low mileage and short hops.

Expert answer

Hi Brendan,

There is no specific market data for Ireland in this respect. The old rule of thumb still holds true - if you want ultimate reliability, buy a Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Suzuki, Subaru or Mazda. You could probably pretty easily add Kia and Hyundai to that list too now.

The best I can do for you is to point you towards the results of the JD Power Vehicle Dependability Study for the UK market in 2015. An independent research agency, JD Power ranks the various brands surveyed by problems per 100 cars - although it's worth remembering that those problems can range from minor electrical niggles to total engine failure, so you can't read everything into the stats. The last set of figures, ranked from best-performing to worst, were:

Expert answer

Hi Aaron,

I'd tread very carefully. Although the engines in the Megane II are pretty robust, any and all of its electrical and electronic systems are suspect to say the least, and the suspension is prone to failure too. Only buy if it has a seriously flawless service history and appears to be in perfect condition - and even then I'd be wary.

Expert answer

Hi Dan,

Expert answer

Hi Catherine,

Right, we've been on to MINI HQ about this, and here's the reply we've received:

"In order to review this query MINI Ireland would require the vehicle to be diagnosed by a MINI Retailer to confirm the exact cause of failure. Once the vehicle has been diagnosed the MINI Retailer can then apply for goodwill to be considered towards the repairs. The owner/driver would be required to have the vehicle recovered to a MINI Retailer for diagnosis at their own cost."

Hope that helps a bit?

Expert answer

Hi Laurence,

Well, to be honest, we don't often hear of any Lexus models suffering anything in the way of major component failure. Was there some major factor, such as physical damage to the batteries, or flooding or something like that? Batteries in hybrids and electric cars are always a concern when it comes to longevity, but Toyota has 15-year-old Prius still running around and their batteries are still working fine. Lexus claims that the batteries are designed to last the life of the car, so I'm suspecting that there's some other factor at play here.

Expert answer

Hi Andy,

It's only a small difference but it could well be a reason for failure. The NCT says that having tyres of differing size or specification is a fail point.

It would be worth your while getting that odd tyre swapped out for one the same as the others. Even with that small difference in the sidewall, the way the tyre reacts and the way heat builds up in the tread is different so while the car might fee fine, its reactions in an emergency situation could be suspect.

I know it's an annoying expense, but honestly, tyres are pretty much the most important thing on the car. Better to make sure they're right. 

Expert answer

Hi Aisling,

Yes they can, but they may not be the most cost-effective. If you're worrying about the diesel particulate filter in the exhaust getting clogged with soot and causing an expensive failure (and that can happen) then don't worry - a quick spin up and back the nearest motorway in a low-ish gear will heat the system up enough to let it burn off the soot and all will be well. Do it once a week for 30 minutes or so and you'll be fine.

The other issue is simple one of cost though. You will spend more money to buy a diesel car than you will a petrol and when you're only doing low mileage it's hard to generate the savings from fuel burn to make up the extra you've spent up front. That's why petrol makes so much sense for lower mileage drivers.

The thing is that the Qashqai can be had with a petrol engine, but it suffers much harsher depreciation when you buy it - so you're in a bit of a catch 22. Petrol is better for your driving profile, but worse for retaining value in this particular model. You may need to expand your search out to some other cars to make your sums add up.

Expert answer

Hi Solomon,

It depends. Have you serviced the car lately? Have you had the radiator inspected or have you made sure that the coolant levels are topped up  properly? The 75 does have a reputation for having faulty inlet manifolds that can cause overheating and head gasket failure, but regular maintenance can help you sidestep these issues.

Expert answer

Hi John,

There does seem to have been an issue with the timing chain on CX-7s, which caused an irritating rattling or tinkling noise. Generally speaking, it’s more of an annoyance than a failure point, but it’s best to have the engine inspected by an expert if the noise is there.

Expert answer

Hi Mirian,

There's just nothing good about any of that. Bad enough that it happens at all, worse still that you're coming to the end of your pregnancy - as you say, you just don't need that kind of hassle.

The problem is a recurrent one on the Meriva, and seems to stem from a good old manufacturing fault. As far as I can tell it dates back to at least 2011, but in spite of repeated calls from owners and even a stinging piece on the BBC consumer show Watchdog, General Motors has failed to issue a recall for the problem.

For the moment, the best thing I can suggest is that you press your Opel dealer to give you a loan car, NOT A MERIVA, for the duration of the rest of your pregnancy, so at least you have peace of mind. Some car dealers like to try and duck the issue, but under the good old Sale Of Goods And Supply Of Services Act (otherwise known as your statutory rights) you're entitled to a repair, replacement or refund. Clearly, if the steering column has already been replaced, repairing it hasn't worked so you're looking for one of the other two.

If you feel up to tackling the dealer, then simply don't let yourself be fobbed off. Stand your ground in the dealership and don't be afraid to kick up a massive fuss. After all, can you imagine worse publicity for any business than to have a heavily pregnant woman, in tears, talking to local and national media about the issue? If they try spinning your head with tech-talk, just put your hand up and say "I don't care about the technicalities, I paid for a car that would work and I want this one to work, or a suitable replacement." Keep using that phrase and don't back down whatever you do.

In fact, let us know when you're planning to go in and perhaps one of the CompleteCar.ie team could come with you as backup. In a consumer-centric world, where recalls are in the news every day, this kind of behaviour is utterly unacceptable so don't you go accepting it.

Please do let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Sinead,

To be honest, I'd avoid it. The 307 was never a great car to begin with and it was probably one of the lowest points for Peugeot build quality. They tend to suffer every electrical problem going, the cabins and interiors are very fragile and the suspension is prone to outright failure. 

If you still fancy a Peugeot, see if you can stretch your budget to a 308 - that was a much better built car, has decent reliability and if you get the 1.6 diesel then 65mpg in daily driving is a reality for you.

Expert answer

Hi John,

There are two schools of, quite influential, official thought on this. If you consult reliability expert JD Power, which conducts an annual vehicle reliability and customer satisfaction survey, the 206 is pretty dreadful. JD Power rates its reliability as below average, with poor interior quality, and it regularly finishes in the bottom ten of vehicles surveyed.

Over at Warranty Direct though, which independently insures vehicles against mechanical failure as part of its aftermarket warranty products, the picture is a little rosier. WD rates the 206's reliability as good, and certainly ahead of most of its French rivals. Problems tend to stem from the electrical system, and most of the time they're pretty cheap to fix.

To be honest though, in general, if you're looking at an older French car, you're looking at trouble.

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

Yeah, electric window failures are depressingly common on most Renaults of that vintage. I'd say generally you're looking at a trade-in value of around €3,000 but you can probably knock another €750 or so off that thanks to the knackered windows.

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Bit of a grey area that one. First off, why does the car not have a passenger airbag? Is it a basic model that just didn't come with one fitted? Or is it actually supposed to have one but it isn't there? Theoretically, if there is a failure in the airbag system that does mean an NCT failure so I would think that if the spec says airbag and there's none in place, that counts as a failure. 

More worryingly though is my original question of why isn't it there? Did it deploy at some stage and not get replaced? If so that raises concerns about (a) what kind of accident was the car previously in and (b) if the airbag wasn't replaced as part of the repair then what else was scrimped on?

Expert answer

Hi Christopher,

Yes, absolutely. Mazdas are renowned for their reliability, and the 3 is no different. In spite of sharing all its mechanical parts with the second generation Ford Focus, the 3 generally does a little better than the Ford in reliability and surveys. Perhaps the Mazda engineers do the bolts up a little tighter... Some early models apparently suffered from turbo failure on the 1.6 diesel engine but that seems to be the only thing, bar the usual history checks and damage inspection, to be worried about.

Expert answer

Hi Catherine,

Not necessarily. The 1.6-litre diesel used in the C-Max is an engine used in a huge variety of cars, from the C-Max to the Focus to the Mondeo to various Citroens, Peugeots, Volvos and even the occasional MINI. This means that, by and large, it's a decent engine with good reliability prospects and millions of miles of use in a massive number of cars to reveal any bugs.

That said, there are a couple of issues to watch for and mostly it's to do with the turbocharger, which can occasionally be a weak point. Usually it's down to a failure of the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve, and it can be pretty easily fixed. Watch the parts prices and shop around for quotes if anything does go wrong. Alternators can give trouble too, so be suspicious of any engine or battery warning lights.

Expert answer

Hi John,

Clearly no car is utterly immune to breakdowns or component failures, but the Lexus LS 430 comes closer than probably any other. It is staggeringly reliable. We have heard tales of people buying the (older) LS 400 model from the '90s for under a grand and still finding every single electrical item working perfectly. Try that with a 7 Series or S-Class...

The Lexus is also hugely comfortable and deeply luxurious and actually better to drive than you might think. No hot hatch, obviously, but still more capable than the roly-poly reputation would have you believe.

Downsides? Colossal motor tax costs and it helps if someone else is paying for your fuel...

Expert answer

Hi Valerie,

Nope, they're excellent. Mazda's reputation for reliability is well earned and the 3 is a really nice car to drive. They're a little plain on the inside, but they're certainly hard-wearing so if you're a family motorist that should reassure you. The only problem to report is that some early models suffered from turbo failure, but it seems to have been an isolated problem. You will have to put up with a little more road roar and tyre noise than you might expect, though.

Go drive one for yourself to see what you think and let us know.

Expert answer

Hi Penny,

I'm assuming you mean the second-generation Octavia, introduced that year? If so, they're a pretty solid car but one that needs a few checks. If it's the 1.4 petrol, have the cam belt inspected. They need doing every 60,000 miles anyway, but the 1.4 has a history of belt failures so it's important to make sure that the one on the car is sound. Check the cabin for rattles or loose trim, check the boot floor for damp carpets (the rear screen wash bottle can leak) and if it's a diesel check for any juddering or poor acceleration, which can be a sign that the dual-mass flywheel is giving trouble. Also, check again for damp carpets in the main cabin, which can be a sign that the door seals are leaking.

Expert answer

Hi Emma,

It's not bad, and the 207 represented a major leap in quality over the old Peugeot 206. That said, it's heavier (to the detriment of fuel consumption) and that folding roof mechanism can be worryingly unreliable. Keep an ear out too for any unhappy noises from the suspension - wheel bearing and suspension damper failures are common while a malfunctioning radio LED display in the cabin is an expensive, and all too common fix. 

In terms of a small SUV, that kind of budget will get you in to a Hyundai Tucson (very, very reliable but you'll only get a petrol version for that budget) or a Toyota RAV4 (likewise), both of which are fine purchases. You could think about going up a size to, perhaps, a BMW X3 or Mercedes-Benz ML-Class, but at that money you're into a world of potential unreliability so tread carefully.

Let us know what you go for

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

Volvo tends to build its cars pretty tough and the S80 is no different. Make sure that the timing belt (and its tensioners and pulleys) have been attended to at service time and that all of the electrics are working properly - apparently the S80 has a habit of warning of electrical failures when the components are actually fine.

Expert answer

Hi Rafal,

There are no problems that suggest themselves as a likely culprit. The Bora is more or less mechanically identical to the Golf, so has the same solidity and suffers the same basic niggles - if there were a problem causing Bora NCT failures, it would be happening to Golfs too. Certainly, Volkswagen Ireland is unaware of any particular Bora issue when we asked for a comment. 

The only thing we can think of is that the Bora has slightly stiffer, sportier suspension than the Golf and that could potentially lead to wear and tear on things like bushings and track rod ends. Given the age of the cars you're looking at, that could be the problem, although in fairness, any 10 to 14-year old car could be suffering from that kind of problem, especially if it's an original Irish car.

Expert answer

Hi Gerard,

Sadly the answers are yes and yes. I always quite liked the 75 (and its sporty offshoot the MG ZT) but the sad fact is that reliability is not their strong point. 

While the 75 was probably the best built Rover ever that's not saying much and quality was always an issue. The head gasket issue is linked to the intake manifold, which warps as it ages and causes gasket leaks and failures. 

Sorry to say but it's probably best left well alone.

Expert answer

Hi Jaro,

Are you talking about the E46 model (1998 to 2006) or the E92 (2007 to 2013)?

If it's the E46, check carefully for any suspension problems - listen for clonking noises from underneath and look closely for uneven tyre wear. There was also a problem with radiator cooling fans failing. It's easily replaced but the problem is that the damage may already have been caused so if the car you're looking at has had a new fan, check carefully for any signs of head gasket damage or overheating.

If it's the E92, then cabin rattles and nosies are your biggest problem. They can be fixed but they can be a nightmare of trial and error to do so. Some electronic systems can also give trouble, especially the optional Bluetooth phone system, but that can usually be fixed with a software patch from a BMW dealer. The petrol 320i version can burn through a lot of oil, so take a long test drive to check for any signs of leaks or a smell of burning oil or blue exhaust smoke. There have been reports of total engine failures for the 320i too, but thankfully they seem to be very rare.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Gerard,

I write this as a former (recovering?) Laguna owner and the best I can tell you is to tread very, very carefully. Admittedly, I owned the previous generation Laguna that was quite simply a reliability disaster and one that cost Renault a fortune in warranty claims. The third-generation car, the one you're looking at, is much better in reliability terms, but still, you need to be suspicious of anything that uses electricity – make sure absolutely everything electrical is working properly and watch it like a hawk to check for failures. The 1.5 dCi engine is actually pretty good, and robust too, and you should pretty easily get high-forties mpg out of it. However, you're going to be on a pretty steep depreciation slope as nothing loses value faster than a big French car. That's fine if you're planning to keep and use it until it dies, but not so good if you're planning to trade-in in a few years. As a family car, it's actually quite good though – spacious and comfy, with a big boot and Renault has an excellent reputation for safety too.

Expert answer

Hi Bill, glad we're of assistance - spread the word!

In answer to your question, it's something of a yes and no. Yes, you could potentially find a cheaper 5 Series by shopping somewhere other than a franchised BMW dealer, but why then try and buy a warranty from BMW? Part of BMW's second hand car warranty package is a full inspection of the vehicle and a check of all major components. Assuming that they would warranty your car unseen, there would almost certainly be a loading on the premium to reflect the fact that they are effectively insuring an unknown car against failure.

So, I would suggest one of two things - either stick with the full franchised BMW second hand package (which is actually pretty keenly priced once you factor everything in) or buy elsewhere and go to a third party for the warranty insurance. Mapfre is pretty much the only game in town in Ireland for aftermarket warranties at the moment, and it has a simple online application form so you can work out the cost of the warranty before you buy the car. Here's the company's website.

Expert answer

Hi Mary,

First off, no you're not crazy. The Clubman is a terrific little car and I actually own one myself. It's more practical than you might think and much more distinctive and different than the standard MINI Hatch. Secondly, on the alloys - blistering could mean that the paint finish is peeling off or that the metal underneath is starting to corrode. It may be that you could simply sand down the bubbles and have the wheels resprayed, or you may need to budget for some replacement wheels.

The only major mechanical issue is a recurrent gearbox problem that can lead to failure and replacement. As long as it shifts gear cleanly, you should be OK. Don't worry if the shift feels heavy, as they are supposed to feel like that. 

Other problems are persistent interior rattles, issues with the stop-start system and a windscreen that seems to be peculiarly prone to cracks and chips. No issues with the timing belt as long as the service history is up to date.

Expert answer

Hi George,

Oh dear, where to begin? Warranty Direct describes the 9-5 as one of the most troublesome cars it's ever surveyed. Electrics are the most common problems, so make sure all the buttons work, then check the suspension for signs of wear, tear or incoming failure. Uneven tyre wear is an early sign of problems there.

Approach with caution basically.

Expert answer

Hi Susan,

Cracking car the i30, and an excellent purchase. Just avoid the petrol engined ones - there are reports of persistent misfires and even full-on engine failures. And if you're buying a car that's still under Hyundai's five-year warranty (which it might just be) then make sure that it has a full main-dealer Hyundai service history with completed routine inspections - or the warranty will be invalid. Also keep an ear out for squeaky interior trim - not a serious issue, but they do seem prone to it.

Expert answer

Hi Niamh,

Doning an NCT is like going to the dentist; no-one wants to do it and it always ends up costing more than it should. Nonetheless, it's necessary every couple of years.

Much like going to the dentist, the result of your NCT will have more to do with how you've been looking after things over a long period. Bringing your car in for a service just before the test is rather like breaking out the mouthwash and floss just before visiting the mouth doctor. It's not going to fix any underlying problems.

It also depends on how thorough your garage is and whether or not you've told them you're going for an NCT. A good garage, properly informed, should check and re-check everything that's necessary to ensure a pass, but even then, the NCT test is both thorough and inflexible - the smallest issue could trip you up. In that sense, it's probably better, if a little more long-winded, to go for the test and then get everything that's flagged up sorted. Yes, it will be expensive, but you'll have to make the repairs anyway.

But ultimately, we're back to the dentist metaphor again. Looking after your car on a daily basis is what will ensure you a pass.

Expert answer

Hi Helen,

Well, obviously, the 207 is a newer and more sophisticated car than the 206, and I reckon you'll find it to be a much more comfortable drive (better seats, especially) than the older 206. That said, the 207 is much, much heavier and the 206 always felt much more fleet of foot and more enjoyable to drive.

The 206 has something of a reputation for unreliability, but the upside is that most of its problems are of the minor, electrical variety. The engines and gearboxes are long-lived and robust,  although if you're buying a heaver diesel model, look for excessive wear and tear on the front suspension and brakes.

The 207 has a couple of recurrent niggles as well, the most important of which is the engine's anti-polution monitor, which can go haywire and cause the engine to switch into limp-home mode. Beware also of diesel models that don't quieten down when they're warmed through; check for suspension failure, especially at the front; and as ever beware of electrical gremlins. Make sure every button works properly.

Expert answer

Hi David,

OK, well the Ka wins in terms of road tax as you'll pay just €358 a year for that, as opposed to €710 for the 2.0-litre Citroen, but after that things start to get a bit more murky. In terms of fuel consumption, it does depend a lot on what kind of driving and mileage you do. If you're a low-mileage person, driving mostly in and around town, then the Ka, even though it uses an aged petrol engine, will probably work out more frugal to run than the Citroen. But if you're doing lots of long motorway miles, then the Citroen will win hands down in economy terms. I'd say you'll average around 40mpg in the Ka, probably 50mpg in the Citroen, depending on your driving style. Beware though; neither of these two cars has the greatest reliability reputation. The Citroen is prone to annoying electrical failures, while the Ka suffers from occasional total engine failure if not cared for.

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

Hmmm. That generation of Corolla doesn't seem to be keeping Toyota's usual reliability standard up. There have been reported issued with brakes (squealing, not failing), troubles with the automatic gearbox, clutch failures, slipping handbrakes and noisy gearboxes. If your potential purchase isn't displaying any of those symptoms, then it might be just fine, but be prepared to raise merry hell with your nearest Toyota dealer if it starts to develop problems. After all, if you're selling your cars on the basis of their reliability, then you'd better be prepared to back that up...

In terms of efficiency, well, it's a quite a small engine in quite a large car, so no, I wouldn't reckon it would be more economical than a 1.2 Fiesta - quite the reverse in fact, unless most of your mileage is on the motorway, in which case the Toyota's extra torque and power should make it more frugal than an over-stretched 1.2.

That price sounds pretty good - maybe even a touch low. Have you done a thorough history check on the car with Cartell.ie?

Expert answer

Hi Alan,

By 2006 that 1.9 TDI engine was nearing the end of its life, and so had most if not all of its earlier issues (injector problems, air sensor failures) ironed out. As for the flywheel, yes there does seem to be an issue with it occasionally, but the way to tell is to listen to the engine, getting your head as close as safely possible to where the gearbox is located. If you hear a rattle, or feel an obvious vibration, it's probably the flywheel.

Expert answer

Hi Tony,

OK, there are a couple of issues here. One is that a trawl of the Internet forums, especially in the UK, seems to indicate that there is a common problem on the N47 2.0-litre diesel engine whereby the timing chain can either fail or jump its sprockets. Either way, you're looking at an engine failure and a need for replacement. Not a trivial matter. 

However, BMW has not issued a recall or any specific advice in this area, which may indicate that there has not been a significant level of these incidents. It's easy to accuse a car company of ignoring a major problem but actually that's rarer than you'd think and it's all to easy to get into a froth of indignation from just reading complaints on the internet.

That being the case, we'd simply advise caution. There are some very good independent BMW specialists out there (such as http://www.bloomfieldgarage.ie/) and it might be worth getting in touch with them for more detailed advice.

Also, insist on full service history with these cars, paying particular attention to oil change intervals.

Expert answer

Hi Noreen,

By and large, the Touareg is built to impressively high standards and you only need to look at the fact that the Porsche Cayenne uses the same basic mechanical package to realise that it's going to be of high quality. 

That said, there were some glitches with the early-build cars, and while a 2005 model should be over these wobbles, you need to make sure that all the various complex electronic systems are working properly. Watch for things like electric seat adjusters failing and be wary of glitchy infotainment systems.

Mechanically, the electronic control of the turbocharger can go awry leading to an inconsistent loss of power and get a mechanic (or the AA) to check the propshafts for potential wear and failure. 

Just as an aside though, enjoy it if you buy it. That generation of Touareg has one of the nicest cabins of any car of the past decade. A cracking car, and actually superior to its replacement, I reckon. 

Expert answer

Hi Sophie,

It's a bit tricky to say. There's no question that the 2002-2012 Range Rover was a massive improvement over its dreadful predecessor when it came to reliability and solidity but there are legions of potential problems - everything from minor electrical niggles to full-on major component failure. Fragile areas seem to be the gearbox (perennially a Land Rover weak spot) and the air suspension. The engines and bodies are solid as rocks though. Make utterly sure there's a full LR service history.

Expert answer

Hi Cormac,

Interesting one this. To be frank, it was news to us. We don't have a standardised headlight test on CompleteCar.ie (perhaps we should), but a trawl of the Audi-based internet forums does indeed seem to show that many C5 owners do have doubts about the power of their lights, especially on dipped beam.

While we can't find any definitive evidence that the facelifted model is any better, it seems that there are two potential fixes to the problem. One is to replace the standard bulbs with better models - and we've seen German-made Flosser bulbs recommended. Philips also produces a line of higher-output bulbs that may be worth a look. The other issue may be the state of the headlamp lenses, and any problems there can potentially be fixed by a good clean. Cleaning kits are available from most good motor factors. Incidentally, beware an aftermarket upgrade to a HID or Xenon headlight set. If it doesn't conform exactly to the original equipment specification, then there are doubts over the legality of such units and it could potentially lead to an NCT failure.

Expert answer

Hi Tony,

Er, not very I'm afraid. Yes, underneath it's essentially an old Honda Civic, so those bits are pretty solid but the build quality coming out of Rover's now dead-and-gone old Longbridge factory was never especially good, and you need to be very wary of electrical issues, rain seals, poor quality cabin trim and rust creeping in, especially underneath. Plus, if it's the 1.4-litre petrol, that K-Series engine was always a lovely little powerplant to drive, but it had a plastic inlet manifold that can warp and there's also the all-too-common head gasket failure. Tread carefully!

Expert answer

Hi Gerard,

Generally the S40 is a solid enough car, but watch for leaky windscreen surrounds, some issues with faulty wheel nuts, vacuum pump failure leading to reduced braking power and, on the 1.6 diesel, problems with the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

Expert answer

Hi Dermot,

Generally the V50 is a solid enough car, but watch for leaky windscreen surrounds, some issues with faulty wheel nuts, vacuum pump failure leading to reduced braking power and, on the 1.6 diesel, problems with the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

We've not heard of any widespread turbocharger issues.

Expert answer

Hi Shane,

The 2.0litre diesel engine in the S40 is shared with the Ford Mondeo and it's a 140hp unit. A pretty good and robust one too, with few major reported problems, but watch earlier models for niggling electrical issues. 

There were also problems with leaky windscreen surrounds, some 2008 models had faulty wheel nuts, watch for ECU and fuel pump failures and brake issues because of a faulty vacuum pump.

Other than that, you might find the S40 slightly tight on legroom. It's a smaller car than the BMW 3 Series to begin with and Volvo compromised the cabin room further by allowing for more crush zones up front. So safer, but a touch more cramped if you've got long legs.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

Not really, no. You may be thinking of the case of the massive recall, back in 2010-2011, where millions of Toyotas were recalled across the globe to fix supposed 'unintended acceleration' problems (in the US) and sticky brake pedals (in Europe). Generally speaking, it was a lot of fuss over nothing.

The Avensis, and this goes for any Avensis model, is as close to a paragon of reliability as you can get. The only common issues are an exhaust gas recirculating valve failure on turbodiesel models, and a cold-starting issue on the same. Essentially, it's a very hard car to go wrong with.

Expert answer

Hi Maria,

The simple reason for Merivas being worth less is that they're just not as in demand as the mechanically similar Corsa. The Corsa has always been popular with learner drivers and first time car owners so its values hold up. The Meriva, as a compact MPV, just isn't as popular so its prices are softer.

As for reliability, like all Opels it's decently well made, but being a mass-market car, there are issues. The most serious of which is a persistent power steering failure, which prompted a recall, so make sure any car you're looking at has had that done. Other than that, watch for fuzzy engine management systems, broken turbos on the diesel models, fragile cabin trim and timing chains that need too much attention at low mileages.

Hope that all helps

Expert answer

Hi Robert,

A very solidly built van, the Combo, and that Fiat-GM 1.3 diesel is long-lived and has been around long enough to have had most of the kinks worked out. Just watch for timing belt guides shifting out of position, leading to possible belt failure, and the exhaust gas recirculation valve in the turbo getting sticky.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Helen,

Yeah, the V50 wasn't Volvo's finest hour when it came to reliability. Plenty of owners have never had a tap of trouble but we've heard reports of problems with the brake master cylinder, mysterious engine power losses, fuel pump and cooling fan failures, power steering and throttle pedal issues. Best thing to do is to check a car's history with the previous owner, if possible. If it gave them no trouble you could be on to a winner.

For the record, our Editor bought a 2006 version recently.

Expert answer

Hi John,

To say that the RX-8 is a bit of a mixed bag is to venture into the grassy uplands of dramatic understatement. Brilliant to drive, sexy to look at and surprisingly practical, if you love rotary engines, then it's a must-buy at some stage.

But boy does it have its problems. In the RX-8's defence most of the engine's problems are down to maintenance, but the problem is that we've become accustomed to cars working faultlessly without us checking on them like spoiled kids every few minutes. An RX-8 isn't like that; it needs constant care and attention. Mostly this is to do with the oil. Rotarys get through a lot of it, so you've got to check it regularly (like, every week) and keep it topped up with high-grade stuff. No cheap oil here. Failure to do so will mean the early wear of the rotor tips and that's when the engine is on the slippery road to oblivion. Cared for properly, an RX-8 engine can rack up massive mileage mostly faultlessly. But let it slip and we've heard of engines having to be replaced after as little as 40,000 miles.

Tread carefully.

Expert answer

Hi Eamonn,

Well, have you seen the weather? That's one good reason...

There was always one major problem with the 207 CC and that was its roof. Better looking and more neatly integrated into the design than that of the preceding 206 CC it may have been, but it's heavy, complicated and was prone to failure on early models, often becoming stuck in the half open, half closed position. Apparently that early foible has been sorted since by various fixes, but it's still a worry for any 207 CC owner.

Apart from that, it's also not very practical (the rear seats are next to useless and the boot is very small when the roof is folded away) and it was never exactly affordable, so perhaps all of that explains its relative rarity in Ireland. On the upside, it's quite nice to drive, it's comfy and reasonably mechanically robust, and for the sake of a relatively small outlay, you do get the same type of folding steel roof that Mercedes-Benz and BMW buyers get to boast of.

Expert answer

Hi Mark,

If you're buying from a reputable dealer, then you should expect to get at least a six-month warranty, and indeed there are car company-backed approved second hand programmes where you can get as much as a two-year warranty, which is pretty good. 

That said, buying an aftermarket warranty is a pretty good idea, once the costs work out. You'll have to decide on the model of car and year in order to get a quote, as it's basically like an insurance system for your mechanical parts, and make doubly sure you read all the small print and know for certain what's covered, under what circumstances, whether knock-on damage (i.e, when the failure of one component causes the failure of others around it) and if there's an excess etc.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Liam,

OK, the value is a hard thing to put an absolute figure on as the 8 Series is now of an age where it's all about the condition and history of the car. If it's in good nick and there's a full set of BMW or independent BMW specialist stamps in the service book, then you should be looking at a value of around €6,000-7,000, maybe a touch less considering that this car has pretty high mileage.

Thankfully, that mileage is nothing to worry about, with one major caveat and that caveat is engine failure. Some 840ci models used engines with a cylinder bore lined in an alloy called Alusil, which is prone to wear and can cause the engine to go expensively pop. If your car has the other type of cylinder liner, Nikasil, then you should be fine, and by and large the 8 Series is an astonishingly robust car, with very few reported common faults.

Just make sure you check that everything electrical is working correctly, as the 8 Series was kind of on that cusp between the simpler pre-electronic age and the arrival of all the complex modern gadgets.

If you buy it, let us know how you get on and give us as flash of your cool pop-up headlamps!

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

They're generally quite solid, but there are a few crucial checks to make. Alternator belts can wear and make a horrible screeching noise when they do. The HDi engines need an additive put in at 60-80,000-mile intervals. A heavy clutch pedal may mean clutch failure is imminent. There are diesel particulate filter issues - if the DPF light comes on and stays on, run the car at medium revs in a low gear for several kilometres to try and heat up the exhaust enough to burn out soot from the DPF. If that doesn't work, it's an expensive part to have replaced. Dual-mass flywheels can get warped and cause a juddering effect. A lumpy idle or excessive exhaust smoke may mean that the exhaust gas recirculation valve needs replacing. 

Inside, the radio and its LED screen can be fragile while, if the air conditioning isn't puffing hard enough, it usually means that the pollen filter needs emptying. Underneath, watch for the front suspension being out of alignment and for excessive tyre wear - 407s were always quite hard on their tyres. A groaning power steering system means the pump needs replacing too.

Expert answer

Hi Charlie,

Skodas tend to be very reliable and well-made, but there are a couple of recurrent niggles on the first-generation Fabia that need checking. Both fuel and water pumps can prove fragile, so check that the engine isn't cutting out and that there's plenty of coolant in the water tank. Check also for 'mayonnaise' - white deposits of mixed water and oil that give away a leaky head gasket.

The sensor for the power steering system can fail (a red steering wheel-shaped light on the dashboard is the tell-tale) and water temperature sensor failure is the most common cause of engine management warnings. The on-board computer that diagnoses when the car needs a service needs to have the correct grade of oil (it measures the quality of the engine oil to decide on the service interval) so check that the recommended oil has been used.

Check for a heavy clutch (the master cylinder could be on the way out), collapsing driver seat, broken speedo illumination and water getting in through the rear door seals. If the dashboard is rattling, it's usually a mounting bracket behind the air vents and can be easily packed with foam to stop it.

If it passes all of those tests you've found a good one!

Expert answer

Hi Shane,

As with any current turbodiesel model, the first thing to check is the diesel particulate filter. Drive the car at a steady 2,500rpm in fourth gear for around 16km and see if the DPF warning light goes out. If it does, all is fine. The 2.0 TDI engine needs a cambelt change every 110,000km so make absolutely sure that's been done as it's an expensive job and a total engine failure if it goes when you're driving.

If the car has the MMI infotainment system then make sure that all the functions are working, as problems are apparently hard to diagnose and expensive to fix. Check the front passenger floor mat for dampness - the air conditioning system can sometimes flood with water draining down from the windscreen and leak onto the floor. Glovebox catches and (more worryingly) seatbelt anchors are prone to wear, so check both. Watch for tracking issues on S-Line cars with sports suspension. A dull thudding noise from the front might be a worn anti-roll bar drop link too.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Gavin,

Here's the checklist for a 2002 Volkswagen Golf (hatchback or Estate):

- Check that alloy wheels have had copper slip grease applied behind them at each service, or the alloy can react with the steel hub and cause corrosion.

- Make sure the headlamps are in good condition, as they're a bumper-off job to replace.

- The rear screen wash-wipe can leak and run into the lock, shorting out the alarm and central locking. The door locks in general can give trouble.

- Most Golf engines need a cambelt change every 40,000 miles (64,000 kilometres). Diesel engines tend to get through a lot of oil.

- Clutch release bearings can wear out easily leading to a hefty clutch action.

- Ignition coils can burn out.

- A whirring noise could be a water pump failure.

- Slow starting or engine management lights often mean a temp sensor has failed.

- A tapping noise on start up may mean you need a cylinder head rebuild.

- If the car has sluggish acceleration it could be a crank or camshaft sensor failure.

- And if there are any issues with any of the main instruments then he whole display has to come out and be replaced.

That's a long list, we know, but if the car you're looking at passes those tests then it's likely to be a good one.

Expert answer

Hi Kevin,

The Volvo S40's engine is susceptible to a few issues that are, unfortunately, quite expensive to fix. Without seeing the car or message for myself, I'd suspect that it means turbocharger failure due to build up of sludge in the oil supply pipe to the turbo.

You'll need to get the car along to a good mechanic to confirm this for you before deciding on how best to remedy it.

Expert answer

Hi Alison,

It should be pretty solid. Kia has always had a good reputation for quality and reliability, even back before the days of the seven-year warranty. We have heard of old-shape Carens having engine failure problems, but it’s a difficult issue to diagnose ahead of the fact. Just make sure it has a full (or at least close to full) service history.

Expert answer

Hi Bob,

The Fabia is a pretty rugged car, but obviously with this one being 16 years old now, you’ll need to thoroughly check it all over. Common failure points are fuel pumps, water temperature sensors and water pumps, rattling dashboards, clutch master cylinders, leaking rear doors and dashboard lights. Economy should work out in the low-forties, in terms of miles per gallon, depending on how and where you drive it.

Generally, I’d say it’s an excellent first car — easy to drive, roomy and robust. 

Expert answer

Hi Kevin,

That could be caused by a few different things, but the most likely for that 1.6-litre diesel engine are either a clogged diesel particulate filter (DPF) or the failure of the turbocharger. Either way you need to get the car to a good mechanic as soon as you can to have it repaired.

Expert answer

Hi Paraic,

First and foremost is the running costs, but I guess they're on the same level as any large SUV-based commercial with an automatic gearbox - they're heavy on fuel and tyres, etc.

Other than that, while the Discovery 3 is proving to be more reliable than its predecessor, it's hardly the most dependable truck of its type. Some cars are perfect, but others have loads of issues, from the electrics to the air suspension and even to full engine failure.

Don't settle for anything less than a full service history and make sure you have the car checked out by someone that knows what they're looking at too.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Adrian,

I'm afraid so. Quoting from the NCT manual:

"Ensure the malfunction indicators for Airbags, Electronic Stability Control (ESC) and Electronic Braking System (EBS) / Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) and Parking Brake malfunction indicator are in working order."

"ITEM: Malfunction Indicators for Airbags, Electronic Stability Control (ESC), Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS/Electronic Braking System (EBS) and Parking Brake."

"REASONS FOR FAILURE: Not working or indicates a defect in the relevant system."

You'll need to get that looked at I'm afraid.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

Without seeing the car for ourselves it's hard to say for sure. The gearbox itself could be leaking oil somehow, though it may also mean the failure of the rear crankshaft oil seal on the engine. Both of those are likely to be expensive repairs so make sure you get to the bottom of it before you buy the car.

Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Sandra,

The Stilo is well known for its electrical gremlins I'm afraid and it's impossible to diagnose from afar. Even a good automotive electrician may not easily trace the source of your woes. In this instance we'd advise you to bring the car to a Fiat main dealer, as they will have seen the symptoms before and should quickly get to the root of the problem.

It's likely that there's an issue with the car's wiring loom, which is difficult to pinpoint.

Sorry not to be of more assistance.

Expert answer

Hi John,

I put your question to Paul Healy, our News Editor, but also a very experienced man in the way of Japanese imports. Here's his response:

May we first commend you on your choice of choice of cars? There is little that can offer the kind of thrills the MX-5/Eunos Roadster does for the money.

In regards to your question; yes the Eunos Roadster is essentially just a Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) MX-5, but there are a few differences between the two cars. For the most part these are cosmetic or inconsequential differences such as the shape of the number plate surround or the fact that the speedometer will be in km/h instead of mph (which is actually handier). The bigger issues relate to the likes of the thinner windscreen that would require a new surround rubber should you need to replace it with one from a MX-5 and also the engine management system (ECU) differs between the cars, but failure of this system is rare so the likelihood of it being a problem is minimal.

While air conditioning was offered on both models many MX-5s do not have it whereas most Eunos Roadsters do. This means that the power steering belt that would also drive the air conditioning compressor will be different between the two cars. So too will be the radiator, as the Eunos almost certainly (the Japanese like their air conditioning) will have additional mounting points for the unit.

None of these issues present any real problem though. Such is the appeal of the MX-5/Eunos Roadster that a whole industry has sprung up to supply parts for both cars that are sometimes unavailable through official channels. Websites such as mx5parts.co.uk and mx5ireland.com are good resources.

Hope this helps!

Expert answer

Hi Paddy,

This really sounds like a clutch failure. Many cars have hydraulic clutch mechanisms, which is why you may still get the feeling that the clutch is ok. However, it could be that a driveshaft or a part of the gearbox has failed. It's highly likely it's 'just' the clutch though.

Bring the car along to a mechanic to get it checked out.

Expert answer

Hi Jim,

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, but I was checking this out and there certainly seems to be something of a difficulty with the diesel particulate filter in the Mazda6 although in general Mazda cars are really very good. There is ancedotal evidence of problems with the DPF and we have had questions on the site from owners relating to this, who were seeking to remove it altogether. With any used car it is pretty impossible to predict if the issue will occur so perhaps it might be worth considering another model, which is a shame, because the Mazda6 is a really good car otherwise.

Here is some more info, from a Mazda6 forum.

Expert answer

Hello Mark,

We checked in with the technical department of Fiat Auto Ireland and they told us the following:

"First have the air bag system checked with a Fiat Dealer to see what errors are present and they will advise on the repair. The problem could be with any part on the system so this check at the Dealer will save you time and money."

Hope this answers your question Mark.