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I'm struggling with buying a petrol car...

Hi,

Trying to buy a replacement for my 1999 Avensis and the scarcity of petrols and abundance of diesels on the market baffles me. I don't think it wise to buy diesel for my standard drive of eight miles to work and home and same six days a week with road trip round 300 miles just six times a year.

This is supposedly "economical" and "green driving" even though in London it costs more for a permit going into city with diesel car and trends in London have historically impacted directly on us in three to five years. I would love to know of a diesel car 2008-2011 (for cheap tax) with no necessary DPF that I have to worry about, or will I stick to petrol believing that in five years time petrol is a more saleable/popular engine than diesel is? Then there might be a hybrid to suit. Volkswagen, Japanese or any good 1.4+ hatch or saloon suggestions?

Thanks,

Pauline.

Pauline Anne Connor (Galway)

Feb 2016 Filed under: petrol vs. diesel

Expert answer

Hi Pauline,

You're absolutely 100 per cent dead right - diesel is not for everyone and especially not for those with overall low mileages and short commutes. And as the recent emissions scandal has shown us, diesel exhaust can be staggeringly bad for your health. 

As for finding a diesel without a DPF filter, I'm not sure you'll be able to. In order to meet the particulate emissions legislation under EuroV and EuroVI regulations you pretty much had to have one. Some people have, of course, removed the DPF to avoid maintenance issues, but then you're just spewing out a plume of highly carcinogenic soot particles as you drive...

So, I think your best bet is to go for a compact turbocharged petrol engine or, just maybe, a hybrid. The Toyota Prius would potentially be ideal for your daily drive, but could be a bit of an over-thirsty pain on that six-time-a-year longer journey. Try instead a car fitted with the Volkswagen Group's excellent 1.2-litre TSI turbo petrol engine (Golf or Skoda Octavia are the best ones), a Ford Focus with the 1.0 EcoBoost engine or maybe an Opel Astra 1.4 Turbo. Here are a few relevant reviews for you to consult:

Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost review

Skoda Octavia 1.2 TSI review

Opel Astra GTC 1.4 Turbo review


Is the 1.0-litre engine enough for the Astra?

Hi,

I'm considering buying the new 1.0 litre petrol Opel Astra. I live in West Cork and most trips would be local most days between five miles and fifteen miles and a trip to Cork (50 miles) every couple of weeks. My present car is a 1.6 diesel Golf, but I want to move away from diesel. Do you think the small engine of the Astra would be enough for my needs?

Thanks.

Mark Kearney (Cork)

Feb 2016 Filed under: choosing new car

Expert answer

Hi Mark,

Based on personal experience (and as someone who grew up in West Cork) I'd say yes - the Astra 1.0 is really sweet to drive and should easily crack 45mpg in daily driving. The only thing to watch for is the small fuel tank, which means you'll be filling up on those journeys back from Cork.

Read our Opel Astra 1.0 review here


What do you think of Mazda diesel engines?

Hi,

I am thinking of buying a 2008/2009 Mazda6 2.0-litre diesel or 2.2-litre diesel. But I've read about  a few issues with diesel engines with regard to DPF failure and timing chains on the 2.2-litre. Is it ture? Is it rare or very common?

Thanks

Amrinder Singh (Athlone)

Feb 2016 Filed under: diesel

Expert answer

Hi Amrinder,

There was a recall for 2.2-litre Mazda6 diesels to replace a stretching timing chain, so check to see if that work has been carried out and don't buy a car that hasn't had the work done. Any car with a full (and preferably Mazda main dealer) service history should be fine though.

However, the DPF issue is down to your driving - if you're not putting in the miles, the DPF can't get hot enough to clean itself out and that's when you get problems, so don't go for one of these cars (or any diesel, really) if you're only doing low mileage and short hops.


How do I plot a route for my electric car?

What about long trips in our electric car? We are regular visitors to Dingle, though we live in Kilkenny. I have tried to plot a way down, stopping to recharge, but I have to admit I am a bit confused about charge points on route.

Pat O Connor (Kilkenny)

Feb 2016 Filed under: electric cars

Expert answer

Hi Pat,

The flippant answer to this would be 'buy a Tesla...' But they're expensive as hell so maybe not an option. The actual answer is I don't know for sure because I've never tried it in an electric car, but, from my reckoning, assuming you're driving a Leaf with a range of about 160km, you should be able to get from Kilkenny to Cork in one hop, find a charger, top up, and then get to Killarney. The trick will be to stay off the motorways and stick to slower roads.

After Killarney I'm just not sure. Dingle is a long way off and I'm not sure what the charging point situation is along the way.

Best bet is to consult the ESB's charge point map and plan your route around that.


Thinking of down-sizing to a Suzuki SX4.

Thinking of downsizing to a second hand Suzuki SX4. Any thoughts on fuel consumption/reliability or other things to look out for? Looking at a 2008-2010 model.

Thanks, Tom

Tom Tyner (Cork)

Feb 2016 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Tom,

A really good car the SX4 - it's hugely reliable and if you can track down a 1.9 diesel 4x4, you'll find it has genuine go-anywhere capability.

The more common 1.6 petrol is a bit thirstier though, with official economy of 42mpg and you'll struggle to match that in daily driving. The boot is also a bit on the small side. Worth looking for deals on the current SX4 S-Cross - a really good and very underrated car.


Which diesel Volkswagen Golf to go for?

Volkswagen Golf Mk7: 1.6 or 2.0 diesel? Have you reviewed the Mk7 1.6 diesel Golf? What are your thoughts on a 2013 1.6 vs 2.0 diesel?

Peter Power (Cork)

Feb 2016 Filed under: diesel

Expert answer

Hi Peter,

The 2.0 TDI Golf is something of a canny buy - it's much punchier than the 1.6, yet comes with only a small penalty in motor tax and running costs, and in fact is good enough to undermine the case for buying the overtly sporting GTD.

That said, if you put the effort in, the 1.6 can be significantly more economical and, obviously, is cheaper to buy. In daily driving, unless you're really pushing hard, its performance is entirely adequate. You can read what our road test editor, Dave Humphreys, thought of the 1.6-litre BlueMotion model here.

As for the 2013 model, that was the MkVI Golf and it's still a fine car - reliable, comfy, spacious and nice to drive, but you will notice a palpable difference in quality and comfort between it and a MkVII.


My Opel Corsa is losing power...

My 2008 Opel Corsa is losing power while driving. I had everything checked two weeks ago and have NCT this Thursday and I need help.

Robert McMahon

Robert McMahon (Kingscourt)

Feb 2016 Filed under: fault

Expert answer

Hi Robert,

I'm afraid it's impossible to assess such a thing from afar. You say you had everything checked, but did you actually hook the car up to a diagnostic tool to see if the engine control unit has any error codes to report? That would be the first port of call. After that, it boils down to fuel, air and, if it's petrol, spark, so you need to check all the sub-systems.

It'll only fail the NCT if the problem is having an effect on the pollutants coming out of the exhaust, by the way.


Why do rear-drive cars get stuck in the snow?

Hi,

I understand why performance drivers like to separate power wheels and "steering" wheels, but why are rear-wheel drive cars much more likely to get stuck in snow and mud?

Many thanks

Philip

Philip Donegan (Ballina)

Feb 2016 Filed under: miscellaneous

Expert answer

Hi Philip,

That only really applies to front-engined, rear-drive cars, as opposed to rear/mid-engined models. It comes down to weight over the driven wheels. In a front-drive car, the engine is right over the driven wheels, helping it find traction in low-grip situations, but in a rear-drive car there's not enough weight over the rear wheels to help with that.

They aren't a complete disaster, though. Have a look in Germany the next time you go there in winter and see how many rear-wheel drive BMWs and Mercedes you spot getting stuck in snow and mud. The problem is that most drivers these days are only used to front-drive and worse, many often don’t know that the drive goes to the rear in most BMWs, Mercs, Lexus, Jaguars etc. So they end up using a front-wheel drive driving technique when presented with a slippery surface, which is to add power and try and force your way through. That doesn’t work – rear-drive cars need a more delicate technique for dealing with slippery surfaces, but in the right hands they can be just as capable.


How often should I service my Ford Fiesta?

How often should I service my 2007 Ford Fiesta 1.2-litre petrol? Confession: I don't think it's had the works since I bought it in 2013!

Catherine Hegarty (Ballincollig)

Feb 2016 Filed under: servicing

Expert answer

Hi Catherine,

It really does depend on your mileage and driving conditions, but a good rule of thumb is at least once a year regardless. We'd recommend every 15,000km on a car like that as well, but even if you don't do that in a year it's best to get the car serviced annually.

It's definitely overdue one!


Any pointers on the Nissan Tiida?

My budget for a car is €6k approx and the Nissan Tiida (2008 or 2009) 1.6 four-door manual petrol seems good value for money. I would do low mileage per year, mostly city/urban driving.

Any pointers?

Rita O'Keeffe (Dublin 15)

Jan 2016 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Rita,

The 1.6 is the right choice for city/urban driving right enough and the Tiida is a reliable old thing, and was one of the first cars to come with Bluetooth phone connection as standard. It's not very interesting though...


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