How do I know the year a car was actually made?
How does one know if the new car you're buying is actually new to that year? I've heard there's a possibility the car could be from a year previous, but the dealer didn't register it (thus making a 2014 car sell as a 2015 car).
Thanks for your help
Patrick
Patrick DrummondNov 2014 Filed under: miscellaneous
Expert answer
Hi Patrick,
Good question. A peek at the VIN plate (usually somewhere in the engine bay) will often give you an original build date. I know, for example, that my own MINI was built in July 2009, about two months before it was first registered. Not all cars will have that info stamped on them though. You could try ringing up the car company that made it, and quote the VIN number, but some will probably be quite cagey about giving that info out, as they won't want to undermine their dealer, if it's a main dealer you're buying from.
Mercedes C-Class or Volkswagen Passat?
Should I go for a 2010 Mercedes-Benz C-Class with 41,000 miles on the clock or a 2012 Volkswagen Passat with 34,000 miles? Which is better value? Merc is €19,000 Passat is €20,000.
William Bambrick (Dublin)Nov 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi William,
It's very, very tempting to go for the Merc – that badge on the bonnet is a major draw all by itself. Being sensible though, even with the extra cost up front, the Passat may actually offer better value. Given that both cars will be generally pretty reliable, the differences come down to things like running costs (is the Passat the 1.6 TDI? If so it's incredibly economical), equipment levels (the Passat is likely to be better equipped than the Merc, but do a proper comparison yourself between both cars to see) and what the dealer is offering you. Which one, for example, is offering the better warranty? A two-year warranty compared to a one- year one may not sound like much, for instance, but if something big goes wrong in year two it could save you an absolute packet.
What should I do about my faulty Meriva?
I bought a secondhand Opel Meriva (2005, 1.4) last year. Its history shows that, just before I bought it, the steering column had been replaced. There was a power steering "issue" last year (failure making turning impossible, EPS light flashing). Diagnostics were run and seemed to pass all, nothing more was done and the problem only appeared again over the past week with the power steering failing and the EPS light coming on.
When this happens on a motorway it's a very scary thing! The car is under warranty until end January 2015 so obviously I want to get everything done that's possible prior to that expiring (and the NCT will be due then too). Of course the dealer I bought this from is fobbing it off as not a big deal, but I can clearly see from wider reviews that this is a major problem in Merivas dating 2003-2008. In some cases I see that even when the steering column is replaced it doesn't solve the problem, but in any case I think better to do this anyway as a first step.
I will go to my garage about this on Monday but I need this to be taken seriously by them. The two things I have going against me here however is that A) I essentially know nothing about cars so can be easily hoodwinked by jargon and B) I'm a woman - so how could I possibly even understand? ;-)
Please help me out here would you - I've a baby due in about eight weeks and it won't be good if the power steering fails on the dash to the maternity ward!
Miriam Ryan (Dublin)Nov 2014 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Mirian,
There's just nothing good about any of that. Bad enough that it happens at all, worse still that you're coming to the end of your pregnancy - as you say, you just don't need that kind of hassle.
The problem is a recurrent one on the Meriva, and seems to stem from a good old manufacturing fault. As far as I can tell it dates back to at least 2011, but in spite of repeated calls from owners and even a stinging piece on the BBC consumer show Watchdog, General Motors has failed to issue a recall for the problem.
For the moment, the best thing I can suggest is that you press your Opel dealer to give you a loan car, NOT A MERIVA, for the duration of the rest of your pregnancy, so at least you have peace of mind. Some car dealers like to try and duck the issue, but under the good old Sale Of Goods And Supply Of Services Act (otherwise known as your statutory rights) you're entitled to a repair, replacement or refund. Clearly, if the steering column has already been replaced, repairing it hasn't worked so you're looking for one of the other two.
If you feel up to tackling the dealer, then simply don't let yourself be fobbed off. Stand your ground in the dealership and don't be afraid to kick up a massive fuss. After all, can you imagine worse publicity for any business than to have a heavily pregnant woman, in tears, talking to local and national media about the issue? If they try spinning your head with tech-talk, just put your hand up and say "I don't care about the technicalities, I paid for a car that would work and I want this one to work, or a suitable replacement." Keep using that phrase and don't back down whatever you do.
In fact, let us know when you're planning to go in and perhaps one of the CompleteCar.ie team could come with you as backup. In a consumer-centric world, where recalls are in the news every day, this kind of behaviour is utterly unacceptable so don't you go accepting it.
Please do let us know how you get on.
Ford Fiesta or Hyundai i20 for €11,000?
I have up to €11,000 to spend on a 3/4-year-old car. I was thinking of either a Ford Fiesta or a Hyundai i20 - which is the better buy? And is it better to buy between now and Christmas, or wait until the New Year?
Pauline O'Donnell
Pauline O'Donnell (Dublin 12)Nov 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Pauline,
At that age, I'd put the Fiesta ahead of the Hyundai. It's better to drive by far, better looking too and barely any less well made or reliable. True, the Hyundai has that long warranty, but at four years old that's coming to an end, so the balance swings back to the Ford. Get the brilliant 1.25-litre petrol engine and I don't think you'll go too far wrong. Lots out there to choose from so be picky when it comes to history, condition and price.
The end of December is the quietest for used car sales in dealers so you could strike a good bargain if you go in there with a cash offer ready to drive away. The New Year could be a bit busier if you're buying through a franchise that also sells new cars.
Let us know how you get on
How reliable is the Smart Roadster Coupé?
How reliable is the Smart Roadster Coupé? I'm looking at one on Carzone here.
Marguerite Collins (Dublin)Nov 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Marguerite,
Check all the electrical systems very carefully and when you take a test drive, let the engine sit and idle for a while with one eye on the temperature gauge - they've been known to suffer from static overheating issues. Check all the floors and carpets for any dampness (the roofs and the driver's door can leak) and make certain it has a full and complete service history; that little three-cylinder turbo engine is highly strung and needs careful maintenance. If it's been skimped on, walk away.
Which fast Volkswagen Golf to buy next year?
If you were buying a fast Golf in 2015 and did about 20,000- to 25,000km a year would you have a Golf R, Golf GTI Performance or Golf GTD? Also, I have driven automatics for the last few years and like them, but would you have DSG or manual in these cars? I'm thinking GTI performance with DSG is a nice balance, as the R still has higher road tax and presumably insurance and performance that will only lose me my licence, while the GTD might be a little pedestrian.
Would value your opinion.
Andrew Kelly (Limerick)Nov 2014 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Andrew,
You're in an enviable position! I'll take your points one by one:
1) Mileage: you definitely do enough miles to see a benefit in having the GTD diesel model, assuming much of it is on the motorway. But the Golf R and GTI aren't really all that bad at a cruise either...
2) Gearbox: I personally would prefer the manual, though I accept that it's a very personal thing in a performance car and if you're used to automatics then stick with the DSG. For the record, it doesn't detract from the car one little bit.
3) GTD vs. GTI: if you read my review you'll see that I was pleasantly surprised by this car, but it took very hard driving to make it shine. At regular speeds (i.e. most of our driving) it felt quite ordinary, whereas the GTI always feels special.
I must admit that, if my budget stretched to the Golf R (and it's cheaper than ever now), I'd go for it. It's always going to be rare and exclusive (though perhaps hard to sell on) and as well as the extra performance it has a brilliant four-wheel drive system.
Nonetheless, I reckon the Golf GTI Performance is probably the best all-round choice, as you've identified for yourself. It's a sensational car, noticeably better to drive even than the regular GTI. You won't regret it one little bit.
Let us know which way you go in any case and here's some more reading for you:
Volkswagen reduces the price of the Golf R
Which is better: a Passat 1.4 TSI or 1.9 TDI?
Which is better: a Passat 1.4 TSI or 1.9 TDI?
Fiona Conway (Limerick)Nov 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Fiona,
Depends; are you doing lots of long motorway miles? In which case get the 1.9 TDI. If you're doing mostly short hops, especially urban, then get the 1.4 TSI.
Unless of course you're talking about two specific cars, rather than in general. In which case go for the one in the best condition with the fullest service history.
Does that help?
How reliable is the Ford Mondeo 2.0?
How reliable is the Ford Mondeo 2.0?
Carol O'Dwyer (Limerick)Oct 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Carol,
There's a specific issue with the 2.0-litre diesel whereby it can cut out unexpectedly - it's a problem with the engine management system but it's a pretty easy fix. You will need to take it to a Ford main dealer if your car develops the problem.
Other than that, they're pretty solid. Keyless ignition systems give a bit of bother but few Irish cars had that so it shouldn't be a major worry. The cabin trim can be a bit fragile too - listen for rattles and look for loose bits.
SEAT Leon, Kia cee'd or Hyundai i30?
Which is best: SEAT Leon, Kia cee'd or Hyundai i30? I am currently driving a 2012 SEAT Ibiza, but looking to change in 2015. Not sure of the three listed which one offers best value for money. Also whilst I do around 10,000- to 12,000 miles per year it's mostly urban and not stuck in traffic. I can't decide whether or not to go for diesel option as spec seems better in same.
Gerry Holland (Cork)Oct 2014 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Gerry,
You've picked three difficult cars to choose between. Obviously, both the Hyundai and Kia are essentially the same car beneath the skin, and both come with temptingly low prices and long, long warranties. The SEAT's three-year warranty looks a bit brief in comparison, but then you are buying into a car with excellent reliability and high quality, so there's that.
You've also got an odd combination of relatively high mileage, but in an urban location, which suggests that you won't be working up enough speed to generate exhaust heat to keep a diesel particulate filter (DPF) clean. With all that in mind, I think your best best might be a Leon 1.2 TSI petrol. It's a cracking engine, nearly as good as a diesel on fuel economy, but with no nasty surprises waiting in the exhaust. Both the Hyundai and Kia are excellent cars, but both are best experienced as diesels.
Should I order a petrol engine for my new Audi A4?
If I ordered a new Audi A4 with a petrol engine, would I lose out much in two or three years time when I trade it in? My annual mileage is less than 8,000km.
John S. (Limerick)Oct 2014 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi John,
OK, there's a balancing act to be done here. There's no doubt that the CO2-driven diesel stampede since 2008 has driven up the values of second hand diesel cars and driven down the values of their petrol equivalents. However, that is starting to change, and cannier buyers (helped in some part by investigations and comparisons by the CompleteCar.ie team - blowing our own trumpet etc. etc.) have shown that the overall cost of buying and running a petrol engined car can actually be lower than that of a diesel, especially for those drivers on relatively low mileage like yourself.
In that sense, I'd be well in favour of getting the petrol one, but there is a caveat to that - the A4 is very much a business market car, and therefore most of its prospective buyers, new and used, will be expecting to see a TDI badge on the boot. If you're buying on a lease or a PCP with a guaranteed future value, then that's not such an issue, but the answer is yes, you could well lose out a little on depreciation over a few years. Probably not a lot, but it's a moving target at the best of times.
Can I suggest this? Instead of an A4, have a look at the A3 Saloon. It's admittedly smaller, but it is also prettier, better to drive and good enough to win Family Car of the Year from the Association of Professional Motoring Press (APMP). It can also be had with the excellent little 150hp 1.4-litre turbo petrol engine and should be somewhat less sensitive to the diesel/petrol tug of war when it comes to second hand values.
Let us know which way you go anyway.