Price range of a good Nissan Skyline GT-R?
What is the price range of a good Nissan Skyline GT-R? And what are the things I should look for?
Ramon Kaspers (Cork)Jan 2013 Filed under: used car values
Expert answer
Hi Ramon,
How long’s that piece of string, there? It really depends on model, history and condition. The old R34 Skyline GT-R (the square one, the last one to actually be called Skyline) can go for as little as €20,000, or as much as €70-80,000, depending on what sort of state they’re in. Newer GT-R models (the ‘Darth Vader’ one…) have a similarly huge price range, from as little as €40,000 to close to €100,000 depending on the age and spec.
As for problems, well, they’re hugely strong, well-made and reliable, but the problem is that tuners love them, so you never know quite what you’re getting. Check for poorly-executed modifications, incorrect wheels and tyres, suspension damage, blown turbos and electronics sent haywire by a poor engine re-mapping. Shop around very, very carefully to avoid one that’s been thrashed beyond its limits, and I’d recommend getting in touch with the owners’ club (maybe even joining and attending a few events) before making the leap.
These are hugely specialist cars, and the more knowledge you can build up, the better.
Is my commute enough for a DPF to work?
I am looking for a fuel efficient and low tax family car. I am looking at 2008+ diesel cars. I drive into and out of the city centre from Adamstown every day along the N4 taking 30 mins + each way. Should I be concerned about diesel particulate filters clogging up or should that be sufficient to regenerate? I'm looking at Passats, Mazda6s and Audi A4s.
Love the website.
Thanks in advance!
Ollie Sinnott (Dublin)Dec 2012 Filed under: DPF issues
Expert answer
Hi Ollie,
Generally speaking, you should be OK, as that 30-min run each day should be enough to keep a DPF hot enough to clean it out, but that’s if and only if that 30 mins is all run at high-ish speeds, say above 80km/h most of the time and in a lower gear. If you’re spending a lot of time in stop-start traffic, I think a petrol option might still be the better one. Mazda’s 2.0-litre petrol engine can be a bit thirsty, but the 1.4 TSI option in the Passat and A4 is a very frugal engine, and still has peppy performance.
Which first car with €2,000 to spend?
Looking for my first car with €2,000 to spend. Looking for something small like the Renault Clio, Opel Corsa, Nissan Micra etc. Any advice? Also what year/mileage should I expect for this price?
Thanks
Emma H (Dublin)Dec 2012 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Emma,
I’d go for the Micra, as it’ll be the most reliable of the cars you’ve mentioned. A budget of €2,000 should get you a 2006-2007 model, and I wouldn’t be bothered about mileage — buy on service history and condition. Other good options are a Toyota Yaris, Honda Jazz or, if you fancy a bit of driving fun, a Suzuki Swift.
Is this SEAT Cordoba a good buy?
Is a 2010 SEAT Cordoba with 37,000 kilometres on the clock a good buy?
Breda Feicks (Co Kilkenny)Nov 2012 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Breda,
We've deleted the registration number from your original question, but please note that we can't do the full history check for you. Go to Cartell.ie for that. Neither can we tell whether a specific car is in good condition etc. without seeing it for ourselves.
However, we can tell you that the Cordoba is generally a solid car, based as it is on the Volkswagen Polo. Make sure you take a good test drive in it and listen out for any unusual sounds. As with all used cars, take the time to try every switch to make sure it all works as well.
Hope that helps, and let us know how you get on.
Why are there 'extra load' tyres on my Passat?
Hi, why do you have to use 'Extra Load' tyres (215/55 R16 97W XL) on a 2007 Volkswagen Passat 2007?
Danny D (Dublin)Nov 2012 Filed under: tyres
Expert answer
Hi Danny,
Extra load tyres are not usually needed on regular cars - they're usually found on people carriers etc. However, some tyre sizes are only available in 'XL' format so they're found on cars where that part of the tyre's specification is not strictly required. They tend to have stiffer sidewalls and are hence often used on low profile tyres. A car manufacturer may also specify this as part of how they want the car to drive on the road.
If that doesn't clear up your query please do come back to us.
Why do car sellers obscure the reg plate?!
Hi,
I've been looking at second cars online recently and have been frustrated by the number of ads where the car reg has been obscured or hidden. Why are sellers doing this? Is it a bad sign that there is something to hide, surely not for long as you can ask for the reg over the phone or you'll see the reg once you view the car?
Thanks in advance.
Ciaran Mc Cashin (Drogheda)Nov 2012 Filed under: registration
Expert answer
Hi Ciaran,
There may be something sinister to it — trying to stop people running background checks on the car, for instance, but in most cases it’s simply down to people being slightly cagey about putting reg numbers up online, or in some cases it’s just down to dealers wanting to have branded numberplate on the cars they’re advertising.
What should I look for on a 2009 Audi A3?
I am thinking of buying a 2009 Audi A3, which is a UK or NI import with 93,000 miles (about 150,000km) on the clock. Are there any specific questions I should be asking the salesman? When should the timing belt/chain be changed?
Fergus Capper (Dublin)Nov 2012 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Fergus,
You've not told us the type of engine in the car, but for your information only the 1.6-litre petrol and 1.9-litre TDI diesel units have timing belts. The change interval is 75,000 miles (just over 120,000km) so if the car you're looking at has one of those engines then it should have had a timing belt change by now.
Other than that insist on a full service history and regardless of what the dealer says it's worth getting a car history check on Cartell.ie, as it covers UK and Northern Ireland cars in full.
Hope that's of help.
What is the new system for imported cars' registration numbers?
Hello, first of all congrats on a great Irish car website. It seems that the system of registering a imported used car has changed since late last year. It is now easy to spot imported Dublin registered cars because the plate starts at 120,000 upwards. I cannot find any information on the Revenue website but I remember reading a newspaper article in early 2012 about it. What are the starting numbers for other counties especially Wicklow?
Jerome O'Connor (Wicklow)Nov 2012 Filed under: registration
Expert answer
Hi Jerome,
This change was made in December 2011 and as you rightly point out, imported used cars registered in Dublin start at 120,000. That's for each year of manufacture, so the first important car from 1994 will start 94 D 120000 and there could also be a 01 D 120000 for instance. Each of the counties has a different starting number appropriately higher than the highest number of cars sold in that county in any year. The list doesn't appear to be available online, but we've requested it for information and will pass it on as soon as we get it.
Any major issues with the Honda Civic Hybrid?
Is the Honda Civic Hybrid a good car?
James Li (Port Louis)Nov 2012 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi James,
We're not fans of the Civic Hybrid in terms of how it drives, but that doesn't mean it's a bad car necessarily. The pool of cars in Ireland is quite small so we've not heard anything negative about them from a reliability perspective, but the American forums seem to be full of owners with issues so perhaps it's best to do some research there to ascertain if the problems are likely to affect Irish cars.
Come back to us if you want more detailed assistance.
What should I look for on a 1977 Mercedes 280?
Just wondering about the Mercedes-Benz 280 SE circa 1977. Are there any issues I should worry about before purchasing one?
Mark McDonald (Dublin )Nov 2012 Filed under: classic cars
Expert answer
Hi Mark,
Merc mechanicals from that era are generally sound. Rust, however, can be a big issue. Get the bodywork checked over thoroughly, as well as the chassis rails at the back. Look under the boot carpets etc.
We put your question to Lizzie Pope, the editor of Mercedes Enthusiast magazine and she echoed our views:
"Finding a good car in the first place can be a real issue; these are, sadly, very much on the wane. Classic specialists might be your best bet, although, of course, you'll pay for it in the price. But that is probably the best chance of buying a solid, useable and, possibly, appreciating classic.
We'd say that it is best to avoid cars that need a lot of work - unless you have a clear (and, crucially, realistic) view of what needs to be done and what it will set you back, because, generally, the cost of the work will be much more than the car is worth. Steer clear of cars with rusty wheelarches and jacking points, rust on the the rear chassis legs and rust around the sunroof frame. As ever, buy the best you can afford, taking condition and provenance above colour and spec."
Hope that helps
