Is it worth repairing my old Honda Accord?
Worth repairing? Have an old 2000 Honda Accord four-door saloon - 1.8 petrol. It's beginning to give trouble and major oil leak under the engine this weekend. I've been quoted €500 to repair. Reasonably trouble free - 150,000 miles.
Tom DickFeb 2016 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Tom,
OK, you've got a couple of choices here. You could trade it in under one of the current 'scrappage' schemes and make potentially as much as €4,500 on it, depending on what car you're trading in against.
Or you could junk it or sell it for parts and grab another Bangernomics special.
My Opel Corsa is losing power...
My 2008 Opel Corsa is losing power while driving. I had everything checked two weeks ago and have NCT this Thursday and I need help.
Robert McMahon
Robert McMahon (Kingscourt)Feb 2016 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Robert,
I'm afraid it's impossible to assess such a thing from afar. You say you had everything checked, but did you actually hook the car up to a diagnostic tool to see if the engine control unit has any error codes to report? That would be the first port of call. After that, it boils down to fuel, air and, if it's petrol, spark, so you need to check all the sub-systems.
It'll only fail the NCT if the problem is having an effect on the pollutants coming out of the exhaust, by the way.
Petrol or diesel for a new Volkswagen Golf?
I am hoping to buy a new Volkswagen Golf, but I am not sure which of the three engines below to select:
1 - petrol 1.2 (110hp)
2 - petrol 1.4 (150hp)
3 - diesel 1.6 (110hp)
I am originally from Kerry, but living in Dublin. I cycle to work every day, so I would only use the car to go to the shops, the gym or meet friends during the week or the weekends. I go home to Kerry at least once or twice a month and I also go to Cork every now and then as I have family down there. So pretty much every second or third weekend I am on the motorway. Dublin - Kerry - Dublin is around 600km, and Dublin - Cork - Dublin is around 530km.
Would love your advice.
Bryan Walsh (Tralee)Feb 2016 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Bryan,
Go for the petrol 1.2 TSI. If most of your mileage is short hops then, even with a regular motorway run, you're not going to get the benefit from diesel. And a 1.2, driven with reasonable care, should get close to 50mpg on the motorway anyway. Plus, you'll save a good chunk of money at purchase time, which will easily outweigh any potential diesel fuel savings.
Is a PCP right for me in retirement?
I'm approaching 66 and recently had to retire. My state pension will be around €230 when it comes in March plus a small work pension of €57 a week. My car, an Audi A2, is a 2001 reg. It's showing signs of age and as it's an obsolete model services are expensive. I would have 3,000 maybe 3,500 Euros to put towards an upgrade. Can you advise me as to whether I should opt for a new car and a repayment plan or get a second-hand one?
Angela O'Sullivan
Angela O'Sullivan (Waterville)Jan 2016 Filed under: finance
Expert answer
Hi Angela,
I think a PCP plan would be entirely wrong for you, because they really only work if you're intending to come back in three years' time to trade in again. I'm guessing you don't want to do that.
Your Audi is worth about €2,000 so put that together with your €3,000 and we're looking at a budget of around €5,000. That's great because that will get you into a 2007 Honda Jazz - one of the best small cars around. It's spacious, comfortable, frugal and above all reliable. You simply can't go wrong with one.
With €10,000 I need room for my bike, please!
Upgrading from a 2001 Nissan Almera 1.5-litre petrol. I cycle to work so only drive at weekends so thinking I should probably stick to petrol. I'd like to come up to a 2010 model with a maximum budget of €10,000. Maybe a hatchback to fit my bike; what do you recommend?
Claire
Claire Towey (Dublin)Jan 2016 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Claire,
Well, with a bike, why not go for a compact estate instead of a hatch? Same driving experience and same running costs, but a bigger boot by far. Best of the breed is a Kia cee'd SW, which is hugely reliable and has a massive boot. With you just driving at the weekends, I'd say it's worth trying to track down a petrol model, rather than the more popular diesel.
Is the Toyota RAV4 worth the price?
Hi,
I want to trade in my 2008 Ford Focus diesel for a new or nearly new car. I really like the SUV style. I drive at least 1,000km per week to and from work so I need something that's reliable, will hold its value and able for big mileage. I really like the Toyota RAV4, but is it worth the price?
What car would you suggest?
Joanne Stafford (Wexford)Dec 2015 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Joanne,
The RAV4 is most definitely worth the price, and it's one of the best cars Toyota currently makes - spacious, reliable and not at all bad to drive. Worth looking at the Nissan Qashqai and Renault Kadjar too, as well as the Skoda Yeti and Mazda CX-5. You won't go wrong with any of those choices, but given your high mileage take a very close look at the Renault and the Nissan - they'll be the most economical overall.
Relevant reviews:
I need a small, reliable commuting car.
Hello, looking for a small, economical, reliable car for commuting. I currently have a 1.0-litre Nissan Micra. I do 110km a day, 5-6 days a week.
What would you recommend?
Elaine Henry (Sligo)Nov 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Elaine,
You're kind of on the cusp of being better off with a diesel with that kind of mileage. There are a few cars that are worth looking at. Sticking with petrol? Try a Honda Jazz - small but very spacious, and the 1.2-litre engine is pretty frugal. Want to go for a small diesel? Try a Volkswagen Polo. Want something a little more fun, but still very frugal (albeit not very roomy in the back)? Try a MINI Cooper D.
I have a few issues with my Mondeo.
I've been advised my car has a belt and chain system but Ford says only belt; can you confirm? It's a 2012 Mondeo 1.6 TDCi.
Also had issues with engine rattle after a dealer changed injectors. He says they need time to relearn. I have symptoms two weeks later still. Just wondering is this accurate because the dealer didn't mention chain or fuel pump. How long should the ECU take to relearn injectors?
Also, the steering wheel is shaking under braking. Should a dealer replace worn discs six weeks after purchase?
Niall Reynlds (Ennis)Oct 2015 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Niall,
We asked Ford Ireland about this for you. First of all, it was confirmed that your car has a timing belt, not a timing chain.
With regards to the injectors, a longer response was given:
"Mondeo DV6 has a Continental fuel system and the fuel injectors fitted on this system have correction factors on them. What this means is that they have a unique ID number that the engine's PCM need to know so it can operate them. The pump has nothing to do with how the injectors operate and its role is simply to bring the fuel up to the high pressure demanded by the system. When an injector is replaced the PCM needs to know the new number of the injector installed. This is inputted using Ford IDS Diagnostic tool. If the injector is installed and the correction factor is not learned using the Ford Diagnostic tool the vehicle will not run at optimal level and the engine may exhibit excessive noise and emissions."
Finally, with regards to a shaking steering wheel, that could be something as simple as a wheel going out of balance, so check that before you consider changing any brake items. Whether the dealer should replace warped discs after six weeks is not so clear - it really depends on the terms of your warranty.
What can I do about my faulty i30?
Hi, I am Prince from Wicklow,
I bought a new Hyundai i30 1.6 diesel two months ago. Now the car has an engine noise, abnormal pulling and an air conditioning problem. It was admitted to dealer garrage for repair it twice within two months. That took a week each time, but it is still not perfect.
Now it is running forward without pressing the accelerator in second, third and fourth gear and does not slow down immidiately when going down a gear. And there is also some problem with the auto stop and start system. Plus its fuel economy is only 47mpg.
What should I do? Can I ask my dealer to replace this faulty car, and what are my rights?
Thank you
Prince
Prince Francis (Bray)Oct 2015 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Prince,
That’s a tricky one. In terms of your consumer rights, you are most certainly entitled to a replacement car if this one is not up to scratch and the dealership has not been able to repair it to your satisfaction.
However, you’ll need to establish that there is a specific fault or faults with the car first. I’d recommend getting it inspected by an independent motor vehicle assessor (you can find them via a quick Google search) and get them to give you a full report on it. Then you need to bring that report to the dealer and demand that either the car is fully repaired (it’s still well within its original five-year warranty after all) or give you a replacement.
Let us know how you get on
BMW 218i or 218d for low mileage coupé?
BMW 2 Series Coupé question: a friend is looking and there is a few thousand of a difference between the 218i petrol and 218d M Sport versions. Car would be a manual. Majority of driving would be city centre with a bit of a drive nothing more than 50km at the weekends and possibly once a month doing a round trip of 600km. Unable to get a test drive of the 218i as there doesn't seem to be any in the country. Have tried to get a test drive of the 118i but again none. I know the engine is the 1.5 turbo three-cylinder that's also used in the new versions of the MINI of which reviews were good.
Any help appreciated.
Simon MacMahon (Dublin)Sep 2015 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Simon,
The only potential fly in the ointment here might be resale value, but we honestly don't think it'll be as big a factor on the 2 Series Coupé as it would on a 'normal' car, such as a 3 Series Saloon or a Ford Focus, for example. There is an element of risk on that, though not if the buyer is going for finance with a guaranteed future minimum value...
All that aside, we'd wholeheartedly recommend the 1.5-litre three-cylinder turbocharged petrol engine. It's astoundingly good in the MINI, marrying ok economy and low runnings costs with cracking performance and bags of personality. Admittedly, we've not had a chance to drive the 218i for ourselves and though the rear-drive chassis should be a hoot with that engine, it's worth noting that the 218i M Sport is about 300kg heavier than a MINI Cooper. In an ideal world your friend would get to try it out first to make sure they're happy with the performance.
As an aside, with such low mileage, and most of it in the city, a petrol car would be best in the long run for your friend to prevent DPF clog-ups and the like.
