Are parts for Saabs becoming expensive?
I'm thinking of buying a 2007 Saab 9-3 Linear Sport, 1.9 diesel. It's in good condition and seems to be a very good price, but I'm told parts for Saabs are becoming ridiculously expensive and that's why you can purchase them so cheaply. Can you shed any light on this?
Jules Hickson (Dublin)Jun 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Jules,
You could be on to something there alright. The 9-3 is generally a pretty reliable car, although you have to watch carefully for things like engine ECU problems (if it's slow to fire up or runs sluggish then walk away) and gearbox and clutch issues.
As for parts - there is definitely a price difference. A quick trawl of the listings over at micksgarage.ie will show you that, for instance, a replacement front wing for the 9-3 will cost you €114 whereas the same part for a contemporary BMW 3 Series will only set you back €70. That's not the case right across the board for all parts but there is definitely a premium charged for Saab bits.
How would you rate the Opel Insignia?
Thinking of buying an Opel Insignia... How would you rate them? Anything I need to look out for?
Dermot Higgins (Dublin)Jun 2015 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Dermot,
Really nice car the Insignia. Good looking, nice to drive and good quality. The 2.0 CDTi 163hp diesel engine is the one to go for, although if your pockets are deep enough you could try tracking down the vanishingly rare 2.0 SRi Turbo 265hp 4x4...
If you're buying used, check everything electrical for any problems and especially check the central locking and alarm system. Check the boot too for any sign of water getting in past the rubber seals. Other than that, as long as you get one with a full service history, you should be fine.
Mercedes-Benz CLA Shooting Brake or Nissan X-Trail?
Trying to decide between new Mercedes-Benz CLA Shooting Brake and new Nissan X-Trail diesel. What would you go for? Or are there any new cars coming next Jan that could compete? Budget max €38,000.
Caroline Conroy (Limerick)May 2015 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Caroline,
Wow, you really couldn't get two more different cars. The CLA Shooting Brake is a really nice car, probably the best of the A-Class spin offs and very nice to drive. But it's not especially practical, so if that's what you're looking for then it's not the right car.
The current X-Trail is a very good car, with lots of space. It's well made and nice to drive, but if you're shopping in and around the €38k mark have a really good look at a Kia Sorento or Honda CR-V - those are the two joint best mid-size SUVs around at the moment for my money.
Worth looking at a spacious estate too. Mazda's just-updated 6 is utterly lovely and well-specced and the Mondeo Estate and Passat Estate are both well worth a look too.
Relevant reviews:
How would you rate the Dacia Duster?
How would you rate the Dacia Duster?
Gerard Lennon (Carlow)May 2015 Filed under: choosing new car
Expert answer
Hi Gerard,
Not bad, but you have to go in with your eyes open. They're cheap and they're cheap for a reason - comfort, quality and dynamics are all well behind the curve compared to the more expensive opposition. That said, it's not bad - spacious, OK to drive, good diesel engine and they have a good reputation for reliability. Worth remembering though that you only get safety gear like stability control if you upgrade to the top spec model.
Toyota RAV4, Hyundai Tucson or Nissan X-Trail?
2005 - 2007 Toyota RAV4, Hyundai Tucson or Nissan X-Trail - low mileage use as a second car. Which would you recommend? Any issues to look out for with these?
Many thanks, Ben from Limerick
Ben McMahon (Limerick)May 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Ben,
OK, first off, if it's a second car for short journeys and low mileages, go and track down a petrol model. That shouldn't be too hard if you're looking pre-2008, and it will save you from getting diesel particulate filter problems later.
Of the three, the Tuscon would probably be the most painless to own - it has a great reliability record and the 2.0-litre petrol version is decently frugal. Worth looking at a Kia Sportage of the same vintage too - it's mechanically identical and, to our eyes, slightly better looking.
I'd avoid the RAV4. That generation of RAV was very short on refinement and they tend to need clutch and flywheel replacements as the miles build up. Not a patch on the current, much more sophisticated RAV4.
The X-Trail is well worth a look too. You might struggle to track down the rare 2.0-litre petrol version, but it's worth doing so - it's more reliable than the diesel version and, as long as you go for the second-generation X-Trail, introduced in 2007, you're getting a massively spacious car that's surprisingly good to drive. Be picky though - it has to be that second-gen model, as the first X-Trail was a bit underwhelming. If you can't find a nice one, revert to the Tucson or Sportage.
Can you give me advice on buying a Peugeot 308?
Hi,
Can you give me advice on buying a 2008 to 2010 Peugeot 308? We do about 15,000 miles a year. Which would suit us better - diesel or petrol?
Thank you
Ruairi Mc Carthy (Mullagh Co Cavan)May 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Ruairi,
With that kind of mileage you would probably be fractionally better off with a petrol, but the thing is that you're unlikely to find one - petrol sales collapsed in the wake of the 2008 change in the car tax regime, so it's very likely that all you'll find out there are diesels.
Which is no harm - the 308 was always nicer to drive with the 1.6 diesel than with a petrol (unless you can track down a vanishingly rare 150hp 1.6-litre petrol turbo). You just need to watch for a few key items. Make sure the diesel particulate filter has been kept clean, and make sure you give the car at least one good long drive at motorway speeds every week to keep it that way. Check that the cooling system is working properly and that the (plastic) water pump is in good nick. Check the gearbox too - the five-speed manual can sometimes get jammed in neutral.
When do I need to replace the timing belt in my Mondeo?
I have a 2009 1.8 diesel Ford Mondeo. When do I need to replace the timing belt?
Anna Hughes (Kildare)May 2015 Filed under: servicing
Expert answer
Hi Anna,
Ford recommends intervals of no more than 125,000 miles (about 210,000km) or 10 years. We'd suggest you err on the side of caution, however.
Which of these Toyota Corollas should I go for?
I'm looking at two 2008 Toyota Corolla diesels; one has 190,000km for €8,000, the second has 125,000km for €8,900. Would the lower mileage be better value?
Thanks
Mary Moore (Kildare)May 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Mary,
Not necessarily. The rule is never buy on mileage, buy on condition and history. Does the higher mileage car have a more complete service history? Does is have fewer owners? Does it come with a warranty? Does it look and feel as if it's been better cared for? If the answers to those are all yes then the higher mileage car could actually be the better one. It's about much more than simple mileage.
What Toyota should my dad upgrade to?
Hi all,
Firstly, thanks for your help back in 2011! We actually bought one of the two cars whose links you sent to me as suggestions! I think I'll be in touch shortly for my own car needs but for now I'm asking for advice for my dad. He is an avid Toyota or Nissan man and currently has a 2008 Corolla 1.4-litre (basic model I think) with 157,000km on the clock. He was initially planing to stick with the Corolla and move up two or three years and his main requirement is that he wants air conditioning in the next car. He spoke to a local second hand car dealer who told him that the equivalent Corolla won't have air conditioning, but that the Auris would, that it has the exact same interior space and only difference is that obviously it is hatchback. Does that point about the air conditioning etc seem right to you?
What would be a rough guide to trade in the 2008 and move to either an Auris or Corolla 2010, 2011 and 2012 models? From what I can see there was a new model Auris released in 2012 and if so would it be worth stretching to that? Any other suggestions of make/model welcome too if you don't mind. He does average to slightly-above-average mileage each year, mostly rural with probably one or two long drives every month so any advice on petrol vs. diesel would be great too.
Thanks again. Enda, Dublin
Enda Lowry (Dublin)May 2015 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Enda,
Yeah, he's definitely better off with the petrol version, not least because Toyota's 1.4 diesel is not the best, but its 1.33 petrol is a cracker. You might need to do some digging to track one down though - they're thinner on the ground on a 2010 plate than the diesels.
Now then, Auris versus Corolla. Yup, they're the same size inside. The boot on the Auris is a little smaller but then it's also more versatile thanks to being a hatchback. The point about air conditioning is probably right - standard spec on Toyotas tends to be quite stingy and Corolla saloons are basically built for emerging markets (no, seriously, we're the only Western European nation that still sells them) so tend to be even more basic again.
I'd say you'll need to find about €3-4k to finance the upgrade from a 2008 Corolla to a 2010 or 2011 Auris.
Relevant reviews:
Toyota Auris review (2013)
Toyota Auris review (2010)
Toyota Corolla review (2013)
Toyota Corolla review (2010)
My Ford Focus has to be full of diesel to start!
I have a 2009 Ford Focus. If I don't keep it full with diesel it won't start. Could it be the pump in the tank or one of the injectors?
Martina Houlihan (Co Mayo Ireland)May 2015 Filed under: fault
Expert answer
Hi Martina,
That model Ford Focus TDCi has no pump in the tank, so it can't be that. The only thing that we can think is an issue with the fuel filter or its housing, perhaps letting in air. I'm afraid the only thing for it is to bring the car to a good mechanic to assess. Best of luck,
