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Will the insurance be high on a BMW 1 Series Sport?

Hi guys, my son is thinking of buying a BMW 1 Series diesel. It's a Sport model. What does this mean and would it have implications for his insurance? He's 27.

Thanks.

Sean C

Apr 2014 Filed under: insurance

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

Well, any insurance company is going to load any male driver under 30 with a hefty premium, and if they're going for a BMW, any BMW, then that premium will be stacked higher still. Perhaps it would be better to seek out a version of the 1 Series that doesn't specifically have the word 'Sport' in its name? The SE model is just as good to drive and look at and there's no actually major dynamic benefit to having the Sport badge on the car.

Or, if the insurance is still working out too steep, why not consider a MINI? A One D would be pretty much as much fun to drive as the 1 Series, cheaper to run and insure and still has that BMW-style handling (front-wheel drive notwithstanding). Could be a better car to drive until he's past 30 and into the sunlit uplands of cheaper insurance.

What do you think?


How do the Golf Match and Highline differ?

Can you explain the difference between the Highline and Match specifications in the Volkswagen Golf?

Brian Dempsey

Apr 2014 Filed under: optional extras

Expert answer

Hi Brian,

That's a little bit tricky at the moment as there isn't currently a 'Match' spec Golf in Volkswagen's range. The current Mark VII Highline Golf though is the ritziest Golf you can buy short of getting a GTI or GTD. Over and above a standard Golf, you get things like 16-inch alloy wheels, a leather-wrapped, multi-function steering wheel, front fog lights that include a cornering function, auto headlights and wipers, sports seats and nice trim on the seats and dash.

When the last Mark VI Golf Match was around, it included (for a relatively small extra outlay over a standard car) such items as automatic lights and wipers, cruise control, front and rear parking sensors, USB and iPod connectors, a digital radio, a trip computer and alloy wheels. The current Golf probably won't get a Match version for a year or two yet but keep an eye out for when one arrives as it will probably be quite a good bargain.


What estate or crossover would you recommend for me?

What can you recommend to fit the following criteria in a new/nearly new car: estate or crossover with large boot space, diesel engine, automatic gearbox, good value, not boring.

Thanks!

Francis Chance (Dublin)

Francis Chance (Dublin)

Apr 2014 Filed under: choosing new car

Expert answer

Hi Francis,

I reckon you should be looking at a Kia cee'd Sportwagon. Handsome to look at, excellent 1.6-litre diesel engine, lots of space, massive boot and, even if you're buying nearly new, a long, loooooong warranty. A tough package to beat and it's more enjoyable to drive than you might expect. Does it fall foul of your 'not boring' requirement?

OK so, one man's meat etc. How about a Skoda Yeti? Not as practical or big in the boot department, but funky and fun to drive and if you get a 4x4 version, a proper off-roader too.

What do you think?


Ok to replace my Santa Fe with a Kia Sportage?

Is the 2010/2011 Kia Sportage a good car in general? I'm changing from a Hyundai Santa Fe and need a comparably sized vehicle, though with lower tax as I do not need extra power for towing.

Vincent Masterson (Mullingar)

Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Vincent,

Yup, very good indeed. Handsome, well made, cracking cabin and good to drive. It is a bit smaller than the Santa Fe though, comparable in size to Hyundai's own ix35 (they're built on the same chassis) so you'll have to compromise on interior space and boot volume. Reliability isn't a major worry (a 2010 or 2011 model will still be under Kia's seven-year warranty anyway), but it's worth pointing out that the rarely-seen four-wheel drive version is significantly more sure footed, even on smooth tarmac, than the front-drive model.


Can you let me know what you think of the BMW X5?

Hi there,

I was looking at a 2003 BMW X5 Sport diesel with 255,879km on the clock and an asking price of €5,900 or a 2004 BMW X5 3.0d with 252,660km. Are they any good compared to other SUVs and are the asking prices ok (will be negotiating)? Does it make it difference if manual or automatic? How's the fuel efficiency and performance of X5s? Are there any negative aspects I should worry about before considering the X5?

Thanks a mill once again in advance for your help, advice and response.

Best regards,

Tanya

Tanya Goon (Dublin)

Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Tanya,

Actually, both cars have exactly the same engine - BMW's long-serving 3.0-litre straight-six diesel. The first generation X5 is little short of excellent, with terrific handling and a gorgeous, comfortable cabin. Reliability isn't the best though. The engines have occasional problems with fuel injectors and developing cracks in the inlet manifold, while steering and suspension are also prone to damage and wear. X5s are also notorious for chewing through tyres at a ferocious rate. The engine's air mass sensor can also fail, leading to poor acceleration although you'll spot that easily enough on a test drive.

Basically, it's worth getting any potential purchase checked over by the AA for any faults, and just ignore anything that doesn't come with a full service history. Oh, and it's better to go for the 2004 one - that should have the newer six-speed automatic gearbox (ignore manuals - they'll be worth much less come trade-in time) that improves fuel economy to just over 30mpg.


How reliable is the Range Rover Sport?

How reliable is the Range Rover Sport, say 2009?

Jonathan Reid (Meath)

Mar 2014 Filed under: reliability

Expert answer

Hi Jonathan,

Land Rover's reliability has been improving out of all recognition lately, and the RR Sport is based on the third generation Discovery, which is a generally reliable vehicle, so that's good news. Watch for issues with the gearbox and anything that has an electric wire attached to the back of it. Check all buttons and switches work properly and that the car has a full and complete service history. Make sure the air suspension raises and lowers as it should too - leaking units can be expensive to rectify.


What's the Honda FR-V like?

What's people's opinion on the 2008 1.8-litre petrol Honda FR-V? How is it on fuel etc, and are there any major issues with it?

Pam Sullivan (Meath)

Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Pam,

It's pretty close to brilliant as a second hand purchase - there are no major reliability or warranty issues to report on the FR-V. The only things to really look for are obvious signs of damage or abuse on the inside (they are used as family transport, after all) and the outside (they're wider than most cars so check for bashed panels or kerbed wheels). That 1.8 won't be the most economical engine ever, but it probably won't break the bank as long as you're not doing lots of long motorway miles.

Let us know how you get on


How much is my SEAT Ibiza worth?

How much is my SEAT Ibiza worth, or what should I expect on a trade in? It's a 1.4 Sport model with 108,000 kilometres on the clock, a new timing belt and water pump.

Thank you

Ann Wilson (Meath)

Mar 2014 Filed under: used car values

Expert answer

Hi Ann,

I'd say between €2,500 and €3,000 if you're selling it yourself, or around €1,750 as a trade-in.


Is the 2008 Kia Sportage a good buy?

Is the 2008 Kia Sportage a good buy?

Jeff O'donnell (Waterford)

Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Jeff,

Yup, really good. Nowhere near as slick or handsome as the current model, which was introduced in 2010, but exceptionally reliable, comfy, spacious and quite nice to drive. Just inspect any potential purchase carefully to see if it has been bounced around too much off-road.


What's causing the vibration in my Volkswagen Transporter?

Hi, I have a problem with my 2004 Volkswagen Transporter T5. It shudders really badly when it reaches about 2,000rpm in all gears. When you accelerate hard it's so bad you cannot drive it (because of the vibration and lack of power). We have checked the air intake sensor, it's not that, and the diagnostics show no faults. We have just changed the long driveshaft and it made no difference. What do we do next?

Thanks Ken, Co. Galway

Ken Maher (Ballygar Co.Galway)

Mar 2014 Filed under: fault

Expert answer

Hi Ken,

If the shudder stops when you stop accelerating then we'd suggest looking at the inner CV joint.

Let us know how you get on.