Should I swap my Kia Sorento for a BMW 5 Series?
Hi,
I have a 2007 Kia Sorento 2.5 GSE diesel in Dublin and I am thinking of buying a BMW 5 Series, the 535d.
i) How much will I get for my Kia?
ii) Is it worth changing? I read a great review of the BMW 5 Series.
iii) If I am trading in how much should I pay for the BMW?
iv) Is it safe to buy the BMW from a dealer (SIMI/non SIMI) or should I only go for BMW showrooms?
Many many thanks in advance for your response
Best regards
Tanya
Tanya Goon (Dublin)Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Tanya,
OK, prices for a 2007 Kia Sorento range from as little as €6,000 for a commercial model to as much as €15,000, which seems a bit hopeful to me. Let's play reasonably safe and suggest that you should get about €9,000 to €10,000 on trade-in.
Now, the 5 Series. The E60 5 Series that ran from 2002 to 2010 is one of our all time favourite cars and the 535d is one of the very best. Powerful, smooth, reasonably economical and able to spin the rear wheels in third gear. Ahem.
It's worth considering other models though. The 535d is a twin-turbo version of the same 3.0-litre six-cylinder engine that you'll find, in single turbo form, in the 530d. You won't save any money in terms of tax (it's the same capacity), but the 530d will be better on fuel and cheaper to insure. If you really want to save some money, look for the ever-popular 520d, which is almost ridiculously cheap to run and far more powerful than you might expect.
As for things to look for, the suspension is the 5's weak point so if there are any nasty clonking noises or if the car feels unstable on the road, or the steering feels inaccurate, walk away. The iDrive infotainment system has also been known to give bother so check and make sure that it is working and, as with any prestige car, make sure it has a full service history.
With a car like this, I'd never advise buying privately or from an unfranchised dealer. SIMI membership should be at least the bottom line and you'll get a better deal from a BMW main dealer than you might expect, especially if the car is part of their approved used programme.
A 2005 530d or 535d seems to hover around a similar asking price to your Kia so you'll just have to negotiate carefully to get the best price.
Let us know how you get on.
Hyundai Santa Fe or Honda FR-V?
Any comments on 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe vs 2008 Honda FR-V?
Thanks
Lisa
Lisa Myers (Dublin)Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Lisa,
Too utterly different cars but, thankfully, both ultra-reliable so both are good ownership prospects.
So, it just comes down to what you want and what you need. The Honda is a little more practical, and will be cheaper overall to run. The Hyundai is bigger and more expensive, but also a bit cooler in its SUV style. Worth pointing out that the third row seats in the Hyundai are quite small, so if you're carrying a full load of people regularly it may be best to go for the six-seat Honda.
Let us know how you get on
Should I get a remap for my 2009 Audi A6?
Can you please advise on getting a remap? I own an 2009 Audi A6 TDIe 136hp with low mileage and in great condition. However, I used to own a diesel Octavia RS and miss the power in the bigger, heavier Audi, but do not want to buy a new car. I am considering getting a remap. What do you think of this? Is it worth it?
M L (Dublin)Mar 2014 Filed under: aftermarket
Expert answer
Hi there,
I’d be slightly careful. Remapping can unleash more power and torque, but you need to be very careful that the chip comes from a reputable source and that it won’t unduly affect the reliability and fuel consumption of the engine. I’d have a word with the guys at the Volkswagen and Audi owners club of Ireland, VAGE, as they tend to know their onions and would be able to give you more precise advice.
What's the Honda FR-V like?
What's the Honda FR-V like?
Gillian Counihan (Cork)Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Gillian,
Yes, it's really good. I've always liked the idea of a six-seat MPV with two rows (I'm also a Fiat Multipla fan) and the FR-V is just excellent. They're really reliable, spacious (even if that front centre seat is a touch cramped) and really quite nice to drive. Nothing major goes wrong with any regularity but just check the cabin for signs of family abuse beyond the call of duty. One downside - there's no compact diesel option, just the 2.2-litre diesel unit. That means you're much more likely to end up with the 1.8 petrol.
Any problems with the 2002 Volvo C70 cabriolet?
Any problems with the 2002 Volvo C70 cabriolet to look out for?
Thanks
Paul Bristow (Glengarriff)Mar 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Paul,
The turbos go so beware of blue or black smoke from the exhaust, and check the convertible hood for any signs of wear and tear. If it's leaking (damp carpets are the giveaway) then replacement parts and repairs can be very expensive. Check too for uneven tyre wear - it can just be that the previous owner has kerbed the wheels but it can also be an indication that the car has damage to its driveshafts.
Tell me more about the 2008 Range Rover 3.6 diesel.
Tell me more about the 2008 Range Rover 3.6 diesel.
Tom Healy (Ardmore ,co. Waterford)Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Tom,
That one came with the first generation of Land Rover's own V8 diesel engine (the Range Rover had exclusively used BMW's 3.0-litre straight-six diesel prior to that) and brought with it much more power and torque and better fuel economy too. Good points are the comfort, the style, the on-road deportment, the off-road capability (mountain goats glare jealously at you) and the image. Bad points are fragile gearboxes and electronics and the mammoth running costs - you CANNOT run a Range Rover on the cheap, even if you can buy them quite cheaply now.
What's the Honda FR-V like?
What's people's opinion on the 2008 1.8-litre petrol Honda FR-V? How is it on fuel etc, and are there any major issues with it?
Pam Sullivan (Ardmore ,co. Waterford)Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car
Expert answer
Hi Pam,
It's pretty close to brilliant as a second hand purchase - there are no major reliability or warranty issues to report on the FR-V. The only things to really look for are obvious signs of damage or abuse on the inside (they are used as family transport, after all) and the outside (they're wider than most cars so check for bashed panels or kerbed wheels). That 1.8 won't be the most economical engine ever, but it probably won't break the bank as long as you're not doing lots of long motorway miles.
Let us know how you get on
How much does this Mercedes cost to tax?
How much is the road tax on Merc reg no 11 XX XXXX?
FRANK BARNETT (Dalkey)Mar 2014 Filed under: taxation
Expert answer
Hi Frank,
The registration you provided is for a 2011 Mercedes-Benz ML 300 CDI BlueEfficiency with an automatic gearbox. That falls into the emissions band 191- to 225g/km, which costs €1,200 per annum to tax.
Merc SLK: what should I look out for on inspection?
Mercedes-Benz SLK 230K convertible: can you tell me any problems to look for on inspection?
Thanks, Paul
Paul Bristow (Glengarriff)Mar 2014 Filed under: reliability
Expert answer
Hi Paul,
OK, the good news: the SLK 230K (built from 1996 to 2004) is from an era when Mercedes engineers built the car the best they could, and then the accountants had to go away and figure out how much to sell it for. That changed later with disastrous consequences for Mercedes' reliability reputation, but the good news, as I say, is that the original SLK was built tough. There are few regularly reported issues, so the thing to check for here is maintenance. If the car has been obviously cared for properly, has a full set of service stamps, receipts and previous NCTs then you're probably on to a good one.
That regular servicing is vital to keep the supercharged engine in good shape (the supercharger itself needs a regular top up with high quality oil) and it's a good idea to very carefully check the operation of the folding steel roof. Any hesitation, vibration or grinding noises are bad signs. Check also for condensation or water in the lights front and rear, and check the interior for any obvious signs of excess wear and tear.
Hope that helps
How costly is the 2.4-litre Volvo S60 to run?
What are the running costs associate with the Volvo S60 2.4 diesel?
Joe Murray (Dublin)Mar 2014 Filed under: running costs
Expert answer
Hi Joe,
The last-generation S60 got a bit unfairly hit by various Irish tax regimes (it never had an engine under 2.0 litres for instance), but it's actually a cracking car - well built and superbly comfy, as Volvos tend to be. Keep an eye out for minor electronic glitches (the cruise control and electric windows seem to be vulnerable points) and if the engine is 'lumpy' when you're switching it off, you're looking at injector issues - expensive ones.
In terms of day-to-day running costs, it should do 44mpg with a manual gearbox (a little less with the optional automatic) and emissions of 175g/km mean you can tax it for €750 a year. That's pricey, but better than buying a pre-2008 model (2008-2009 was the last full year of production) when the engine capacity would land you with a €1,034 tax bill. One running cost to keep an eye on is front tyres. The S60 is quite nose-heavy and has a massive turning circle, things that tend to banjax the front boots. Check any potential purchase for worn rubber and budget for at least a new set every year.