Expert answer

Hi Zak,

We always did like the C5 when it was new — big, comfy, quite stylish and it really does look best as an estate. Your ‘friends’ are right in that the Mondeo or Avensis will hold their value better, and there’s no getting away from the fact that an Avensis would be much more reliable over the long term, but at seven years old, the C5 will have the worst of its depreciation behind it now, so as long as it comes with a full service history and you keep it looked after, we wouldn’t regard it as a bad purchase.

Expert answer

Hi Peter,

For a ten-year-old Ford, that sounds a little too pricey. There are certainly better value Mondeos around. On the whole, though, it is a good car to buy. The quality of Mondeos that came out of the old factory in Ghent in Belgium was better than the new ones coming out of Valencia in Spain, and if it has a full service history and that mileage is genuine, then it should be pretty solid.

Expert answer

Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...

Expert answer

Hi Ger,

We always did have a big soft spot for Saabs in general, but the sad fact is that the last-gen 9-3 was neither a great car in and of itself, nor especially reliable. The 1.8t petrol engine was, at least, a little better than the diesel options in terms of reliability, but it’s probably going to be troublesome. Definitely don’t buy one that doesn’t have a full service history, and don’t pay too much for it either. I reckon €4,000 would be top value.

Expert answer

Hi Fion,

Basically excellent. As ever, with any car, you want to see a full and complete service history, and the MMI infotainment system can be troublesome (and damn near impossible to fix if it goes wrong), but the A5 is mechanically tough, so as long as the servicing has been done properly, you shouldn’t expect too many issues.

Expert answer

Hi Patrick,

It should be fine, as it was the four-cylinder diesel that was troublesome on the E60 5 Series, and the straight-six engines are pretty solid. Just make sure that it has a full and complete service history and, if there are any gaps in the maintenance, walk away.

Expert answer

Hi Michael,

They’re pretty solid, but watch for issues with the 1.6-litre diesel engine (exhaust filter, water pump, turbo) and the ignition and central locking system. Make sure it has a full and complete service history and don't ignore the warning lights.

Expert answer

Hi Frank,

It depends on the condition and service history, but I would suggest it’s worth around €4,000.

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

At the time, they were very reliable and solidly built, but I’d be slightly wary now, especially if it’s a car with patchy service history. The diesel models develop problems with both the injection system and the air mass sensor, while the 1.6 petrol was underpowered and consequently has to strain to push the car around, leading to excessive wear and tear (especially to the front driveshafts).

The good news is that there aren’t too many fiddly electronic system to go wrong, but check the car over very carefully and if there are too many holes in the service record, walk away.

Expert answer

Hi Charlie,

Skodas tend to be very reliable and well-made, but there are a couple of recurrent niggles on the first-generation Fabia that need checking. Both fuel and water pumps can prove fragile, so check that the engine isn't cutting out and that there's plenty of coolant in the water tank. Check also for 'mayonnaise' - white deposits of mixed water and oil that give away a leaky head gasket.

The sensor for the power steering system can fail (a red steering wheel-shaped light on the dashboard is the tell-tale) and water temperature sensor failure is the most common cause of engine management warnings. The on-board computer that diagnoses when the car needs a service needs to have the correct grade of oil (it measures the quality of the engine oil to decide on the service interval) so check that the recommended oil has been used.

Check for a heavy clutch (the master cylinder could be on the way out), collapsing driver seat, broken speedo illumination and water getting in through the rear door seals. If the dashboard is rattling, it's usually a mounting bracket behind the air vents and can be easily packed with foam to stop it.

If it passes all of those tests you've found a good one!