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Hi John,

First thing to check is the relevant fuses. F13, F16 or F17 are the ones you need to check, though failure of these would usually mean another system failing as well. Still, easy thing to check first.

After that it's a case of looking at the physical wiring.

If in any doubt, bring the car to a good mechanic.

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Hi Tom,

A traditional 'dry' timing belt, mostly made of rubber, runs in air behind dust covers. A 'wet' belt is of similar construction but actually runs in oil behind sealed covers. The theory is that this reduces heat, friction and noise while enhancing reliability.

Unfortunately, the material of the belt can be damaged by contaminants in the oil itself, causing premature failure of the belt or other engine damage caused by bits of the belt clogging up other components.

Not every car that has a wet belt has an issue, but they certainly have a bad reputation.

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Hi Marcin,

I’m afraid you may have gotten yourself into a bit of bother here, because the Revenue rulebook states that any vehicle being brought into the state must be announced to Revenue within a week of its arrival and have gone through he VRT process within 30 days.

Failure to pay VRT on time results in a penalty. Between 30 and 60 days overdue, you’ll pay a penalty equivalent to five per cent of the car’s Irish market value. If it’s more than 60 days, but less than six months, then it’s ten per cent. If it’s more than six months, then it’s an additional five per cent of the value for every month that you’re overdue. 

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Hi Sylvie,

Unless there are extenuating circumstances, the taxes etc. are calculated when the car is presented for inspection. So, I'm afraid you're likely to have to pay the new fees. On top of that, you're supposed to inform Revenue of the car's importation within seven days and book an inspection within 30 days. Failure to do that means a fine. That fine increases the longer you wait, too, so don't delay any further. 

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Hi Amponsah,

We can't be much help, I'm afraid. You've not told us anything about the car. Even so, we'd ideally need a chassis number, which you'll need to call the relevant parts department to find out the price of the correct component. It's best that you call them yourself.

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Hi Gino,

That Ford 1.6 TDCi diesel engine is one of the most common engines around, as it has also been used by Mazda, Volvo, Peugeot, Citroen and MINI. It has one major vulnerable spot and that is that sooty, gummy deposits can build up in areas that are supposed to be kept cool and lubricated by oil. If the deposits build up enough, they can block the oil passage and cause component failure — most commonly of the turbocharger. The best way to prevent that happening is with regular servicing (at least once a year depending on mileage) and making sure that you always use a high-quality grade of synthetic oil for the engine.

The 1.6 petrol engine, the 100hp version, is a much simpler unit and it’s pretty reliable, mostly because it’s a much older design. It won’t be as economical nor as punchy in its performance as the diesel, but if it’s reliability you’re looking for, it might be the better option. 

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Hi Darren,

I think the first thing to do is to ‘lawyer-up’. You’re going to need some professional legal advice on this one. Basically, the law is pretty simple - once a car is in the country, you have a week to notify Revenue and make the booking at the NCT centre to have the car inspected, and 30 days to complete the process and get the new plates. Failure to do so means that Revenue can seize the car and they will only release it at their discretion, and on payment of a hefty fine. Plus there’s the issue of any unpaid motor tax.

As a purchaser, you should never buy a car that’s in Ireland, but still on its foreign plates. The law says it must be re-registered before being sold on. However, if you can show that you bought the car in good faith, and intended to follow the normal VRT procedure, then there might be a way through this for you. Clearly, the bulk of the onus is on the previous owner, but you definitely need to have a good solicitor on your side for this one.

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Hi Mark,

While anecdotal evidence suggests that there are differences between NCT test centres (and even testers), they are all supposed to follow the same NCT manual. We've scoured it and there doesn't appear to be a specific reference to the engine management light. However, there is allowance for a 'preliminary check' on the engine and a failure can be because of 'obvious engine defects'. That's quite open for interpretation and a tester could well decide that an engine management light on falls under that.

To be fair, if it is on, then it means there's something up with the emissions control system (or its sensors) and the car is not at the standard it should be. Hence I'd recommend getting the issue sorted before going for the NCT.

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Hi Darren,

Unless the damage is very slight and not at all jagged, then yes, it probably will fail. An extract from the NCT manual as a reason for failure: "Secondary structural components missing, insecure, rustedor damaged to such an extent as to leave sharp edges."

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Hi Henry,

You've not told us which engine your car has, but there are a few known issues with the 207 that it might be:

- The catalytic converter can break up internally, damaging the oxygen sensor, leading to poor performance.

- Engine coolant temperature sensor becomes faulty, causing poor performance, especially when cold.

- Turbocharger failure (on diesel models) due to build-up of sludge in oil supply pipe.

I must admit, I don't think it sounds like any of those, but it does sound like an electrical issue with a failed sensor from your description. It's very difficult to assess such things from afar.

My advice would be to bring the car to a different mechanic as a starting point.