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Hi Rory,

In some ways it's a great car, in others less so. Some drivers will love it, some will hate it. That sounds like I'm sititng on the fence, doesn't it? Read my full report from driving the car on Irish roads here.

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Hi Dawn,

Going on personal experience, I'd say that the C4 Picasso would be the most economical of the bunch. All of them should be able to get between 45-50mpg, and I'd say the C4 should just nudge above 50mpg. That said, you have to remember that what dictates fuel economy more than the car is your driving style. Practice driving with light throttle openings, anticipating further ahead and always using gentle control inputs and you should be able to get that economy figure improved. Also, take any excess weight out of the car, make sure the engine is serviced regularly and the oil changed often and get a good set of low-rolling resistance tyres, and keep them at the right pressure. It all helps.

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Hi Sean,

Did the oil light come on during that time? If it did not (and check that your oil light is working) then there shouldn't be anything to worry about. That light comes on if the oil pressure drops below a certain level and if an engine is run on low oil pressure for an extended amount of time then components may become damaged.

Also, if there was spillage in the engine bay it's worth getting it cleaned out professionally, as it'll never look the same again if you don't. Not that it's likely to adversely affect anything, though then again having oil spill onto hot components like the exhaust manifold is not the best idea in the world...

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Hi Breda,

Well, on the one hand, both the Aygo and the Auris are very well built and reliable so both will minimise any potential for expensive maintenance costs, and both are very frugal and economical, so either would be a fine choice. The Auris might be a bit more of a painless switch if you've been used to a Golf, as it's similar in size and comfort levels.

But, as you say that your journeys have decreased in length, switching cars may not actually save you any money. Changing cars is usually more expensive than maintaining and running an older car, and you need to sit down and do your sums very, very carefully. Work out what the actual cost of change is for you (the price of either car you are considering minus the trade-in value of your Golf, but including the cost of finance) and balance that against the cost of continuing to run and fuel your existing car, factoring in some cash for a good service and a new set of tyres (often the best way to improve your fuel economy).

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Hi Peter,

Yup, the Mazda2 is an excellent vehicle, very reliable and good to drive, and decently spacious too. I wouldn't, however, have thought that there was very much difference in the seat quality between a SEAT Ibiza and a Mazda2. I would also suggest that the dealer might be lo-balling you a bit on the trade-in value of your SEAT. €3,750 doesn't seem much for a six-year old car, if it's in good condition and has a full service history.

Two things I'd suggest. Ask if you can have the Mazda2 for an extended, preferably overnight test drive so that your wife can make absolutely certain that the seat is a genuine improvement. If not, then have you considered fitting an aftermarket seat to the SEAT? The likes of Recaro and Cobra make excellent bucket seats that are often approved by back and spine care associations.

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Hi Declan,

Well, obviously the 2.0-litre is more powerful, and with 150hp compared to the Golf 1.6 TDI’s 120hp, quite a bit more so. Lots more torque too, which makes driving much more effortless. There’s not a huge penalty in terms of fuel economy or emissions either, so you’re not going to have to shell out masses of extra cash in terms of running costs, and the 2.0-litre is more refined and smoother than the 1.6.

Is there any point to buying the 1.6 then? Yes — it’ll be cheaper to insure, and easier to sell on as most private buyers will shun the bigger engine.

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Hi David,

To be honest, I'd be tempted to hang on to the SX4. Suzukis are generally astonishingly reliable, whereas with the best will in the world, Renaults are not. Even if your mileage is increasing, there are cheap and simple ways to improve your economy (a tune-up, low rolling resistance tyres, practice) so my best advice is to stick with what you've got. 

In the meantime, I'd say you're looking at a trade in value of around €8-9,000.

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Hi Cormac,

It will depend on the year and model you’re talking about, but if you mean the 2008 Audi A6 update, which was the first model with the TDIe engine, then it’s basically lightly tweaked for economy and emissions, but those will be nothing to write home about compared to more modern cars. The TDIe could manage 53mpg and 139g/km, but that was with the 140hp engine, so it’s a touch under-powered in the A6. You could be better off going for a more powerful 170hp version, which will have slightly higher emissions, but which will probably do better in economy terms in real-world driving - and far more satisfying to drive.

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Hi Mark,

The most common fault with that generation Clio was with the bonnet catch that could fail and allow the bonnet to fly open when driving! Worrying that, and it never triggered a full recall, although Renault did offer to inspect and repair cars for free - make sure the one you're looking at has had that done. Engines are pretty solid, but watch for electrical issues with the windows, the CD player and the engine immobiliser. There are reports of cold starting problems, usually because of a faulty air pressure sensor and the cable-operated gear shift can give problems too. If you have difficulty selecting a gear, then the gearbox is on its way out. Cabin trim is pretty fragile and you need to watch for problems with the brake servos and front suspension arms.

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Hi Anne,

It's impossible to diagnose such an issue from afar accurately, but known issues with that Mondeo include:

- Water in the fuel filter or tank (replace the fuel filter to check)

- Poor earth connection under the battery (check the physical connection for rust, etc)

- Fuel injectors out of calibration (requires reprogramming, usually at a dealer)

Another possibility is that the dual-mass flywheel has broken up and needs replacing.

I'd recommend you get the car along to a good mechanic to diagnose it properly.