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Hi Blaithin,

In my personal experience the most efficient car I've ever driven was the Volkswagen Golf BlueMotion - it easily averages better than 60mpg in everyday driving and I'm not the most economical of drivers. €20k should get you a nicely specced 2010 or 2011 model.

How does that sound?

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Hi Jim,

Basically, it's the same as buying an ex-rental. The good news is that all the scheduled servicing and maintenance should have been carried out in full and on time, but the bad news is that you just don't know who's been driving it previously and what kind of driving they've been doing. Generally speaking, someone being given a loan car by their insurer will probably just have had a shunt and will likely be in a careful mood, but you just never know. Check everything very carefully, from the cabin for unexpected wear and tear to the suspension for alignment issues or other damage. This could be a good one to break out the AA inspection on, just to be on the safe side.

Let us know how you get on

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Hi Janice,

Yes, but perhaps not the most economical in the class. Going on personal experience, a Mercedes-Benz E 200 or E 250 CDI will average in the high forties mpg whereas a BMW 520d or an Audi A6 2.0 TDI should easily get over the 50mpg barrier in everyday driving.

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Hi there,

Generally speaking SsangYongs are very reliable, not least because the older models tend towards the crude and simple end of the scale. On the Actyon just keep an eye out for sticking transmissions (or lumpy changes if it's an auto) and fragile cabin trim. Oh, and for a diesel car it's not very fuel efficient - you'll be lucky to break 30mpg in daily driving.

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Hi Audrey,

Go for the Tiguan and go for four-wheel drive if you can find a good one within your budget. That first generation Kuga didn't age well at all (interior feels very cheap and nasty now) and the last time I drove a four-wheel drive version I struggled to get better than 35mpg out of it. By contrast a 4Motion Tiguan should easily crack the 40mpg barrier in everyday driving, has a lovely cabin and is crackingly good to drive.

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Hi Paul,

It could be down to a number of factors, but excessive fuel consumption can usually be traced to a few specific areas:

Are the tyre pressures correct all round? Tyres that are under pressure can seriously increase your fuel consumption.

Are you using a roof rack or roof box, or are you constantly carrying around heavy loads in the boot?

Has the engine been serviced recently?

Finally, there’s your own driving style, which is often the bigger contributing factor to fuel consumption. If you’re trying to save fuel, try accelerating a little more gently, anticipating the traffic flow a little further ahead, backing off earlier and not idling the engine when standing still for long periods.

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Hi Brian,

OK, at that budget you have plenty of good options. How about a Hyundai i10? Crackingly good little car that - nice to drive, safe, economical and really reliable. Circa €9,000 should get you into a 2012 model, and that will still have around three years of its original warranty left to run. Want something a little cheaper than that? Try a Suzuki Swift. Budget around €6,000 to €7,000 to get a 2009 or 2010 model. Again, a cracking little car to drive and Suzukis are exceptionally well made and reliable. Finally, if you max out your budget, you could get into a brand new Dacia Sandero 1.2. Not the most sophisticated car out there but simple and solid and it comes with a full warranty.

Let us know which way you go

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Hi Bill,

There’s no one blanket answer to this, as much depends on where you do your mileage and how you drive. Basically the issue is one of heat. The DPF needs the exhaust system of the car to reach full operating temperature in order for it to burn off the excess carbonised soot that it filters from the exhaust. If you don’t generate that heat then the DPF gets full and clogs up and causes problems. So, you can do relatively low mileage, but if it’s mostly on the motorway and you’re running at a constant 120km/h for, say, 30 minutes or so each day, then you probably wouldn’t have any problems. If you do lots of miles but they’re all in town, stuck in traffic, creeping along, then it doesn’t matter how much mileage you do, you’ll have problems. As a rule of thumb, we usually say that circa 20,000km a year is the changeover point, but as I say, driving style and where you do your driving enter into it too.

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Hi Eileen,

First up, we believe you mean rear-wheel drive cars. All BMWs (up to a new one launching later this year anyway) send their power to the rear or all wheels, and most Mercedes-Benz models do as well (though that's slowly changing). So, what's the 'problem' with rear-wheel drive? The stories you are referring to probably started off when we had those particularly long icy winters a few years ago. Many drivers of rear-drive cars found themselves stranded when others sailed past. This is down to lack of traction.

In a front-engined, rear-drive car there is very little weight over the driven wheels so in very slippery conditions it can struggle to put its power down. Most normal cars (i.e. not executive or sporty) are front-engined and front-wheel drive, where the weight of the engine over the wheels helps in low-grip conditions. Saying all that, sales of BMWs and Mercs etc. with rear-wheel drive are very high in countries that consistently have much worse weather than us, but the difference is that they habitually change over to winter tyres for a fixed portion of the year. These have a massive effect.

Back in Ireland, BMWs and Mercs are bought in relatively large numbers due to their status and image, yet they're not as expensive as they used to be. Most of the time here the lack of rear traction is not an issue, though some drivers don't like the feel of a rear-drive car in wet conditions. They're no less safe though, especially the latest models with all their driver aids.

Personally, I prefer rear-wheel drive, but I'd advise all buyers to try a range of cars to see what they like.

Hope that helps you understand those stories a little!

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Hi Stella,

OK, the good news is that your Yaris is an in-demand model and values for cars from around that era are holding up well because of the scarcity of new car sales since the financial crash. I'd hope that you'd get around €8,000 for it, but let's play safe and assume you get €7,000 and you can add your €1k to that. That opens up an entire world of MINIs to you, and not just old models - you should be able to get into the second-generation post-2006 model, which is noticeably more refined and well made. I'd suggest trying to track down a nicely specced 1.6 Cooper and enjoy the heck out of it. As a MINI owner myself, I can tell you that they're great fun to drive and not quite as impractical as you might think.

Now, reliability. There's no two ways about it - Toyotas are staggeringly reliable and break very rarely. MINIs aren't bad, not bad at all, but they're just not quite as bank-vault solid as the Japanese car. Buy carefully, make sure you get one with a full and complete service history and you should be fine. Regular servicing isn't too pricey (about €190 for a normal service) and fuel economy should be pretty good too.

Hope that all helps