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Hi Neil,

Well, your Audi is with circa €7,000 as a trade in, while a 2010 Accord should run you about €12-14k. So you'll have to finance about €6-7,000 to make up the gap, depending on the dealer and the history and condition of your car.

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Hi Pat,

The dealers are, in fairness, being evasive because they don't have the full picture yet. None of us do, to be honest. However, there's no really good reason for not buying an A6. It's an excellent car, very frugal and lovely to drive, and beautifully built too. If it does turn out to be one of the cars on which the CO₂ emissions and fuel consumption has been under-estimated, then you will be compensated for any gap - Volkswagen Group has promised that customers will not be out of pocket as a result of all this. So I'd say go ahead - cracking car.

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Hi Mary,

I'd tread carefully where the Multitronic box is concerned. While the serious issues that plagued it pre-2006 have been mostly sorted, it's still not trouble free. Oil changes are needed at regular intervals if it's to be kept in good order. 

I do reckon, if funds allow, you'd better off going for the S-Tronic gearbox, which seems to have a much stronger reliability record.

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Hi Mike,

The A6 is a cracking choice - reliable, frugal, stylish and hugely comfy, but it's not as sweet to drive as the 5 Series. That said, it is more spacious and if you can track down an Avant estate you'll have one of the best looking cars around. 

If you're concerned about driving on snow and ice there are two avenues you should explore, no matter which car you go for. One is to look into fitting either winter tyres (which you'll need to swap back over to normal tyres in the spring) or all-season tyres, such as the new 'CrossClimate' one from Michelin. Better again, go on a winter driving techniques course. BMW runs one at Rally School Ireland in Monaghan and the skills you'll learn there would get you through even the worst blizzard, no matter which set of your car's wheels are driven.

Further reading:

Audi A6 review

BMW 5 Series review

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Hi Willy,

An illuminated brake pad warning light will most likely fail the NCT. The manual has a provision for failing a car based on pads that need to be changed and while yours were changed the light suggests they're not right. Whoever changed the brakes either didn't attach the brake pad warning wiring or they used the wrong pads. It needs to be looked into.

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Hi Liam,

The official figures for that model were 34mpg or 8.2 litres per 100km on the combined cycle.

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Hi Gavin,

I'd have to say nope. It's not very big inside and it has needlessly heavy steering that makes manoeuvring in town a chore. 

Do you really need an SUV? Why not consider a nice estate? BMW's own 3 Series Touring is a belter. Or, for your budget, you could probably stretch to an Audi A6 Avant. Track down one with quattro four-wheel drive and leave all the front-drive SUVs standing when it snows. 

Or, if you're determined on the SUV front, consider one of the following: Honda CR-V, Volvo XC60, Hyundai Santa Fe or Mazda CX-5.

What do you think?

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Hi Mícheál,

This kind of thing is always difficult to analyse from afar so unless you're used to DIY on your car it's best you take it to a mechanic you trust. It sounds like the catch on either the lock on the door or the B-pillars themselves is not aligned properly. The lock may be damaged too of course.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi Michael,

Right, the base spec is going to be harder to sell on again, so you're better by far going for the S line as long as you can live with the firmer ride. 

In terms of the difference between the cars in mileage and warranty - it's down to condition and history. If the 80k car is in as good nick, and has a full service history, then there's nothing to worry about and you can always buy an aftermarket warranty to keep yourself covered.

Let us know which way you go

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Hi Gerard,

Check the air conditioning to make sure it's working - that seems to be a perennial A6 weak point. Also make sure that the engine has had a regular top up of oil - they do get through a bit between services. Check everything electrical too especially if any of the warning lights on the dash are on. ECUs (Engine Control Units) are also a bit fragile so take a long test drive with lots of hard acceleration and check for any drops in power.

Hope that all helps