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Hi Paul,

By and large yes, but remember that this is a ten-year old car now, so you're going to have to find an immaculate one if you're looking for trouble-free motoring. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) has been known to give bother, so check and make sure that the engine runs smoothly and produces power properly. Mind you, the 1.4 petrol Golf was always woefully underpowered, so check also for signs that it has been ragged - floppy clutch, loose gearshift, smoky engine etc. Check the suspension too and if the tyres are unevenly worn, then the alignment is probably out. If it has electric windows and central locking (most Irish-spec 1.4 Golfs from that era won't) check to make sure they work properly too.

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Hi Nelius,

Cracking car the original Mazda6. One of the best-to-drive saloons ever built and the good news is you're looking at mostly pros, and very few cons. The only real mechanical weak point is the clutch - we've heard of them failing at as little as 50,000km so check to make sure that the action is smooth and not too heavy and that the gear changes are crisp and quick. Any slipping or smell should set off alarm bells.

Other than that, there are a few recalls that you need to make sure were attended to (leaky fuel lines, dodgy fog lamps, brake warning light and oil seals) and it's worth checking to make sure that the suspension and steering are in good fettle and that there's a good set of high-quality tyres on the car; the better to enjoy that wonderful handling balance.

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Hi Marcus,

No, but we can work out a rough figure for you. The 2006 320d had a quoted combined figure of 5.7 litres per 100km (about 50mpg). Now, we know that official fuel consumption figures are basically rubbish so let’s be on the pessimistic side – the urban consumption figure was 7.8 litres/100km so let’s split the difference and say 6.8 litres/100km as the halfway point. On your 80km per day, therefore, you’re going to nominally get through about 5.4 litres of fuel per day. That works out at 37.8 litres per week, which at the current average price per litre of diesel comes to €42.90 per week.

Now, that’s an estimated figure, and everything from the traffic levels, to the type of road you use to your own driving style to how much weight you’re carrying in the car to the condition of your engine and your tyres to whether you use the air conditioning or not and so many more variables will have an effect on that figure, so consider it ballpark only.

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Hi Gordon,

Well, as with any high performance model, check first for signs of abuse. Are the wheels in good order? Do the tyres look knackered? Does the engine smoke or the clutch smell? If it seems that it has been wrecked and ruined by a former hot-shoe owner, then walk away. Aside from that, check that the gearbox (manual or auto) picks up gears crisply and cleanly, listen for grinding our graunching noises from the suspension and check the paint carefully for excessive stone chipping or damage. It's also worth winding up some speed and then heaving on the brakes to check that the anti-lock brake system is working OK - some ABS control units were reported to have failed.

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Hi Joe,

Both excellent choices although it's worth pointing out that the petrol-powered Honda will struggle more to hold on to any value as the market is so diesel-obsessed at the moment. Still, that means prices are cheaper for you at buying time...

As with all Hondas, the CR-V is remarkably reliable, although this model has suffered from some issues. There have been some problems with trim scratching and scuffing too easily, as well as problems with the alternators. Some have had issues with the gearbox too and high front tyre wear. You should also check carefully underneath to make sure that any previous owner hasn't been taking the 4x4 bit too seriously.

That goes equally for the Hyundai and the good news here too is that reliability is excellent. The only regularly reported problems with the Santa Fe are that the air conditioning system can need regular re-gassing and that the stereo is pretty rubbish.

Both will be expensive to run though. The CR-V has CO₂ emissions of 194g/km so motor tax is going to be pricey. Despite being diesel, the Hyundai is no better, with CO₂ emissions of 191g/km. Both will average around 35mpg in regular driving.

I have to admit to a small bias - my father-in-law has owned his 2.0-litre petrol CR-V from new in 2007 and loves it. It's been massively reliable (only ever needing a replacement alternator) and he regularly gets better than 40mpg from it. That said, the Hyundai is also an excellent vehicle and I would say both are safe bets - try some test drives and see which one you prefer and let us know which way you go.

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Hi Sean,

It's a tough question to answer, this one, simply because different wheels and tyres can make an enormous difference to ride quality. As you say, French cars tend to fare very well in this regard and I think the most comfortable car I have driven in recent years was a top-spec Citroen C5 with the traditional Citroen hydra gas suspension, which just felt as if the road surface wasn't there. As you say, French cars can have their reliability issues, but the C5 was always pretty well screwed together.

Of the other options, both the Ford Mondeo and Opel Insignia are good bets, especially if you can avoid any cars that have been specced-up with big wheels and low profile tyres. Go for nothing bigger than a 17-inch wheel with at least a 55-profile tyre - wheel and tyre combos make a huge difference to ride comfort,

Of course if you want the ultimate in ride comfort, then track yourself down a Jaguar XJ6 saloon from the mid-eighties. Best ride quality of any car ever. I can't vouch for the reliability though...

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Hi Rob,

Really good actually - reliable, hugely spacious and quite nice to drive. Best of all, a 2009 one will still have up to two full years of the manufacturer's warranty left to run. Mind you, you need to read the fine print on that - there are some exclusions, including interior rattles and loose trim, something the cee'd does suffer from.  

They can also go through tyres quite quickly and the gearbox can give trouble, although it's usually just a matter of changing the transmission fluid.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi Stephen,

The E60 was a terrific car but not without its faults. Listen carefully for any nasty noises coming from the suspension and check the steering to make sure it responds quickly and accurately and that there's no odd weighting in the power assistance. The run-flat tyres and the pressure monitoring system that goes with them can also play up, as can the first-gen iDrive system, so make sure all the electronics are working.

Finally, that last-of-the-line 2.2-litre straight-six was a fab engine but did occasionally suffer from some cooling and head gasket problems. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge during your test drive and check the service record (which should of course be full and complete) for any frequent revisits to the dealers to have the cooling looked at.

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Hi Nessa,

Yes, no reason why you shouldn't. Obviously make sure the condition, mileage and history are all in order, but beyond that there are very few things to specifically look for as V70s tend to be built like the proverbial tanks and can easily shrug off high mileage if they're looked after. In fact, according to Volvo's official line on these things, a car with that mileage is only half way through its life...

Things to watch for? Listen out for any unpleasant noises from the front suspension - it's an acknowledged weak point and excess wear and tear is not unusual. Keep an eye on the front tyres too, as they burn through 'em. The engine's only major weak point is its injector system, but you'll know straight away whether yours has problems or not - if it's reluctant to start or belches out great clouds of black smoke when it does start, walk away.

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Hi Keith,

The areas you have to check carefully on an E60 5 Series are the suspension and electrics. If there are any nasty noises coming from underneath, or if the steering feels anything less than precise and solid, you've got possible trouble. The run-flat tyres can also cause trouble, suffering from little air leaks that play havoc with the tyre pressure monitoring system. The iDrive infotainment system can also be wayward, sometimes taking as long as 20 minutes to boot up, but apparently post-2005 cars are far better in this regard. Finally, check all the electrical and electronic systems to make absolutely sure that everything is working as it should be, and don't even consider a car that doesn't have a full service history.