Expert answer

Hi Ken,

It's difficult to know from afar, but there are several things that will affect this - assuming you're seeing a reduction in your car's economy:

1 - Tyre pressures need to be within specification

2 - Wheel alignment must be correct

3 - Perhaps the air filter and/or fuel filter is dirty and needs replacement

4 - Are you carrying extra weight in the boot?

5 - Is the rear window demister on permanently? 

Go through all of those things, starting with those that cost nothing to check and you should find savings. If not, then get the engine are car serviced and that might help. Perhaps a brake is binding.

Let us know how you get on

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Hi Denis,

Not necessarily, but it depends on the wear. Check the tread depth – if it’s below 1.6mm depth overall then the tyre is below the legal minimum and yes, you definitely need to change it. If it’s below 2.5-3mm overall, I’d think seriously about changing as tyre performance, especially under braking, tails off markedly at that point. If the depth is fine and there is no damage to the sidewall or treads, then I wouldn’t worry – tyres generally last for as long as five to even ten years with mild use.

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Hi Ruairi,

You're expecting me to say 'everything' aren't you? 

Well, actually, 159s are pretty well built and when they do suffer from old-school Alfa flakiness, it tends to be more on a car-by-car basis. So the best trick is to talk to the previous owner. If the car gave them no major trouble, then it's probably a good 'un.

The critical check point is anything electric. Wiper motors are weak and the cruise control can freak out easily and take a good long test drive to make sure that the engine always delivers its power smoothly and consistently. If it doesn't then the ECU could be on the way out. 

Finally, if the front tyres are showing signs of uneven wear, then the front suspension is out of alignment and needs sorting.

Best of luck

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

Well, according to the official figures, you should be getting 55mpg on average. If you're not getting that, or something near it, then you need to consider a few possibilities:

Are your tyres up to the correct pressures? Has the car been serviced lately, and given an oil and filters change? Are you carrying around lots of extra weight in the car or have you got a roof rack or roof box on top?

If none of these helps, maybe you need to take a look at your own driving style. Lighter throttle openings, earlier gearshifts, a bit more anticipation - that sort of thing.

Hope that's of some help

Expert answer

Hi Justin,

Nice car, but just make sure that you're not planning lots of long motorway journeys in it as that 2.0-litre petrol engine can get a bit thirsty. Otherwise, check for electrical gremlins and make sure that the front tyres are wearing evenly - if not, the suspension could need adjusting or repair.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

By and large yes, but remember that this is a ten-year old car now, so you're going to have to find an immaculate one if you're looking for trouble-free motoring. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) has been known to give bother, so check and make sure that the engine runs smoothly and produces power properly. Mind you, the 1.4 petrol Golf was always woefully underpowered, so check also for signs that it has been ragged - floppy clutch, loose gearshift, smoky engine etc. Check the suspension too and if the tyres are unevenly worn, then the alignment is probably out. If it has electric windows and central locking (most Irish-spec 1.4 Golfs from that era won't) check to make sure they work properly too.

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Hi Nelius,

Cracking car the original Mazda6. One of the best-to-drive saloons ever built and the good news is you're looking at mostly pros, and very few cons. The only real mechanical weak point is the clutch - we've heard of them failing at as little as 50,000km so check to make sure that the action is smooth and not too heavy and that the gear changes are crisp and quick. Any slipping or smell should set off alarm bells.

Other than that, there are a few recalls that you need to make sure were attended to (leaky fuel lines, dodgy fog lamps, brake warning light and oil seals) and it's worth checking to make sure that the suspension and steering are in good fettle and that there's a good set of high-quality tyres on the car; the better to enjoy that wonderful handling balance.

Expert answer

Hi Marcus,

No, but we can work out a rough figure for you. The 2006 320d had a quoted combined figure of 5.7 litres per 100km (about 50mpg). Now, we know that official fuel consumption figures are basically rubbish so let’s be on the pessimistic side – the urban consumption figure was 7.8 litres/100km so let’s split the difference and say 6.8 litres/100km as the halfway point. On your 80km per day, therefore, you’re going to nominally get through about 5.4 litres of fuel per day. That works out at 37.8 litres per week, which at the current average price per litre of diesel comes to €42.90 per week.

Now, that’s an estimated figure, and everything from the traffic levels, to the type of road you use to your own driving style to how much weight you’re carrying in the car to the condition of your engine and your tyres to whether you use the air conditioning or not and so many more variables will have an effect on that figure, so consider it ballpark only.

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Hi Gordon,

Well, as with any high performance model, check first for signs of abuse. Are the wheels in good order? Do the tyres look knackered? Does the engine smoke or the clutch smell? If it seems that it has been wrecked and ruined by a former hot-shoe owner, then walk away. Aside from that, check that the gearbox (manual or auto) picks up gears crisply and cleanly, listen for grinding our graunching noises from the suspension and check the paint carefully for excessive stone chipping or damage. It's also worth winding up some speed and then heaving on the brakes to check that the anti-lock brake system is working OK - some ABS control units were reported to have failed.

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

Both excellent choices although it's worth pointing out that the petrol-powered Honda will struggle more to hold on to any value as the market is so diesel-obsessed at the moment. Still, that means prices are cheaper for you at buying time...

As with all Hondas, the CR-V is remarkably reliable, although this model has suffered from some issues. There have been some problems with trim scratching and scuffing too easily, as well as problems with the alternators. Some have had issues with the gearbox too and high front tyre wear. You should also check carefully underneath to make sure that any previous owner hasn't been taking the 4x4 bit too seriously.

That goes equally for the Hyundai and the good news here too is that reliability is excellent. The only regularly reported problems with the Santa Fe are that the air conditioning system can need regular re-gassing and that the stereo is pretty rubbish.

Both will be expensive to run though. The CR-V has CO₂ emissions of 194g/km so motor tax is going to be pricey. Despite being diesel, the Hyundai is no better, with CO₂ emissions of 191g/km. Both will average around 35mpg in regular driving.

I have to admit to a small bias - my father-in-law has owned his 2.0-litre petrol CR-V from new in 2007 and loves it. It's been massively reliable (only ever needing a replacement alternator) and he regularly gets better than 40mpg from it. That said, the Hyundai is also an excellent vehicle and I would say both are safe bets - try some test drives and see which one you prefer and let us know which way you go.