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I need a newer car with lower running costs. Help!

Hi,

I am currently driving a 2002 Peugeot 307 three-door 1.6 petrol with 63,000 miles on the clock. Having a son now makes the three doors pretty impractical and the car is expensive to run. I was taken in by Renault's recent ad campaign for the 'Carculator'. It compares all your outgoings on your car with the costs of running a brand new Renault. The problem is, although I could probably purchase say a new Mégane for about the same money per month as my current outgoings on the Peugeot, this involves a deposit of about €6-7k. The Peugeot is only worth about €1,500-2k at best in trade in and I don't have that much extra cash to throw at it.

This got me thinking though, I should be able to purchase a 2-3 year-old car that is substantially cheaper to run and still be able to make repayments on a loan. My current costs on the Peugeot are €514 on tax, about €900 on petrol to cover 4,500 miles annually, approx €600 on servicing plus it needs two new tyres at €130, and €55 on NCT. This comes in at €2,200 for the year. This is where I would like your help. I am sure there are cars that would cost €800-900 a year to run including all these costs, which leaves me with €1,300-1,400 to cover loan repayments for the year.

Can you suggest a car with low tax, far better fuel efficiency, low servicing costs that won't need an NCT for a few years and that with a €2k trade-in, will have relatively low monthly repayments over say five years? I know it's asking a lot but with your knowledge of the market, I hope there might be some possibilities for me.

Thanks,

Rowland (Dublin 5)

Rowland Crawte (Raheny)

Mar 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Rowland,

OK, there are a lot of parameters to go with here, but the basics are that you need a car that's cheap to buy (so it can't, sadly be too new), has affordable running costs and won't break down every time it rains. I reckon that gives you a choice of three or four key models: Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla or Auris, Kia cee'd or Hyundai i30.

Have a shop around and you should be able to find several of those all well within your purchase price range, while they all have efficient engines and excellent reliability records. In the case of the Kia and the Hyundai, they also have lengthy warranties, which, even if there's none left on the one you buy, at least means that they're more likely to have been looked after. My personal choice would be the Honda. Track down a nice 1.4 petrol Civic and I don't think you'll look back.

Let us know how you get on


How costly is the 2.4-litre Volvo S60 to run?

What are the running costs associate with the Volvo S60 2.4 diesel?

Joe Murray (Dublin)

Mar 2014 Filed under: running costs

Expert answer

Hi Joe,

The last-generation S60 got a bit unfairly hit by various Irish tax regimes (it never had an engine under 2.0 litres for instance), but it's actually a cracking car - well built and superbly comfy, as Volvos tend to be. Keep an eye out for minor electronic glitches (the cruise control and electric windows seem to be vulnerable points) and if the engine is 'lumpy' when you're switching it off, you're looking at injector issues - expensive ones.

In terms of day-to-day running costs, it should do 44mpg with a manual gearbox (a little less with the optional automatic) and emissions of 175g/km mean you can tax it for €750 a year. That's pricey, but better than buying a pre-2008 model (2008-2009 was the last full year of production) when the engine capacity would land you with a €1,034 tax bill. One running cost to keep an eye on is front tyres. The S60 is quite nose-heavy and has a massive turning circle, things that tend to banjax the front boots. Check any potential purchase for worn rubber and budget for at least a new set every year.


What's a realistic mpg figure for the Mercedes C-Class?

How many miles to the gallon will I get from a 2005 Mercedes-Benz C-Class 200 1.8 petrol auto?

Rosemary Hennessy (Dublin)

Mar 2014 Filed under: fuel economy and emissions

Expert answer

Hi Rosemary,

According to the official figure, you should be getting 33mpg. Bear in mind though that this is almost a ten-year old car, so its performance in terms of fuel economy may have tailed off. Nothing a good service and oil change wouldn't fix though, along with some decent new tyres.


Is my BMW worth anything as scrap?

Hi, I have 2000 BMW 316 that passed the NCT two weeks ago, has new tyres and is in great condition, but ran out of oil on the motorway to Dublin last week and the engine seized. Now it's not really worth repairing I don't think so wondering what options I would have. Is it worth anything for scrappage? I got quoted €150 max.

Thanks, Scott

Scott Kitteringham (COrk)

Mar 2014 Filed under: scrappage

Expert answer

Hi Scott,

Scrappage isn't worth much these days, sadly, but it might be worth having a ring around local breakers' yards and spare parts experts. Often the value in a car can lie in its components rather than the whole, so if things like the body and interior are in good nick, then you may get some value out of selling those off separately.

Let us know how you get on


This Suzuki Vitara XL7 looks great. What should I look out for?

I have seen an impeccable 2005 Suzuki Vitara 2.0 XL7 Diesel - a seven-seater. It has one owner, 80,000 genuine miles, and it's bronze in colour. Full service history, five new tyres, new timing chain and NCT until Feb 2015. Asking price €7,500. Is there anything I should look out for before making an offer?

Michael Leyden (ENNIS)

Feb 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Michael,

Should be fine, but just check all the electrics and buttons on the inside, as one of the few weak areas on the Vitara is in its wiring. Also make sure that a recall to have the front suspension attended to has been done, and check the service book - Vitaras have rather short 10,000km service intervals so one or two may have been skipped. Other than that, it should be a good 'un.


Tell me all about the Volkswagen Eos

Hi,

Tell me about the 2008 Volkswagen Eos. Anything to look out for? And what's the best engine to go for?

Thank you

Ruairi Mc Carthy (Mullagh Co Cavan)

Feb 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Ruairi,

As with any folding hard top cabrio the first and most important thing is to check the roof carefully for any problems, leaks, wear and tear. They can be fragile so you want to make sure that everything's working right. 

Secondly, all that roof stuff is heavy (which is why the Eos is so clumsy to drive) so you need to be checking for excessive wear and tear on suspension, tyres, steering etc. 

As for engine, there's no point in going for the 2.0 turbo engine from the Golf GTI as the Eos's porky weight kills the performance. Better to just accept you'll be slow and go for the 1.4 TSI or 2.0 TDI diesel instead.

Let us know how you get on


What's the noise in my Nissan Primera?

What's the whirring noise in my Nissan Primera 1.8 (2002)? It starts when the car is in motion not when stationary.

Leo Dunster (Oswestry)

Feb 2014 Filed under: fault

Expert answer

Hi Leo,

It's always very difficult to analyse such things from afar so we'd advise you bring the car to a good mechanic. It could be something stuck in the tyre or brake disc, it could be a damaged tyre, it could be a worn wheel bearing or something in the transmission.

Best of luck getting it sorted


Should I stay away from the Espace and this older Discovery?

I need a second hand seven seater. Have seen a 2005 Renault Grand Espace automatic petrol, 95k miles, leather priced at €3,850. Fallen in love with a 2004 Land Rover Discovery 2.5-litre, auto, diesel, leather, 150k miles too. Price €5,250. Would I be crazy to go for Land Rover? Difference in tax isn't too big. Two trustworthy mechanics told me Renault give expensive problems but didn't ask about Land Rover!

Susan Ryan (Dublin IRL)

Feb 2014 Filed under: reliability

Expert answer

Hi Susan,

Wow, you're a glutton for punishment aren't you? You pretty much couldn't have picked two less reliable cars. The Discovery is best avoided. If you could afford to trade up to a third-generation model I'd say that's worth a go, as Land Rover was starting to get on top of its quality issues by then, but the old Series II is just bad news. Gearboxes go, electrics go and even the suspension can fail. I know what you mean about falling in love - it's happened to me too with old Land Rovers, but you're looking at a very high-maintenance partner there.

The Espace is a little better, but not by much. The diesel engines are very fragile - check for smoke, check for oil levels and if there are any signs of overheating, run don't walk away. Check anything with an electrical wire coming out the back of it too as it can all go wrong, although the electronic parking brake and electric windows are especially prone to wrongness. Also, keep an eye on the tyres. Espaces go through them like butter and 20,000km is about as much as you'll get out of a set.

If you really want a seven-seater that works properly, can I suggest either a Mitsubishi Pajero or Toyota Land Cruiser? Not as cool as the Discovery, but they won't let you down.


What's the whirring noise in my Ford Focus?

I have a six-year-old Ford Focus C-Max and there's a funny sort of whirring noise when driving. I mentioned it to the garage before I got the car serviced but they said it was nothing when I collected the car after service. My-son-in law reckons it is the bearings in the back left wheel. What do you think?

Thanks, Robbie.

Robert Wise (Dublin)

Feb 2014 Filed under: fault

Expert answer

Hi Robbie,

It could well be a wheel bearing. Though it could just as easily be a tyre. Best bet is to bring it to a different mechanic to have it checked over.


Mazda6 or BMW 320d?

Mazda6 2.2D or BMW 320d? Which of the two will be better as a fun-to-drive second hand 2010/2011 hatchback/saloon? The Mazda6 is cheaper to buy but would it be also cheaper to maintain and be more reliable? Would the BMW keep a higher residual value? Anything I should look out when going for a test drive?

Vittorio Papa (Dublin)

Jan 2014 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Vittorio,

You've got it all answered yourself there. The BMW's overall residual value will indeed be slightly better, but, long term, the Mazda should prove to be much more reliable and rugged. Both are excellent to drive. The BMW's classic rear-drive chassis is slightly the superior, but the Mazda's muscular steering feel and firmly sprung chassis makes it one of the best front-drive saloon chassis around. 

Nothing major to watch for on either - just make sure there's a fully stamped up service history and check the BMW carefully to make sure that all the electrical bits work and that it's been topped up with high grade oil at each service. Both cars may have been driven hard by previous owners (many will be ex-fleet) so check carefully for thinks like uneven tyre wear or noises from underneath that indicate worn or out-askew suspension.

Let us know how you get on