Expert answer

Hi Fiona,

The Single Administrative Document (SAD) is the standard EU customs declaration form. It records the details of goods being imported or exported and proves that customs obligations (VAT, duty, etc.) have been met.

For cars coming from Great Britain into Northern Ireland, a SAD is generated automatically when the HMRC Supplementary Declaration is completed through the Trader Support Service (TSS). Most buyers never see it, but Revenue can request a copy if they want extra proof that a vehicle has cleared customs correctly.

In most cases you won't need to show an SAD when presenting the car for a VRT inspection. Revenue usually accepts the HMRC Supplementary Declaration together with the V5C as proof that the car was lawfully imported into Northern Ireland and is in free circulation under the Windsor Framework.

If the car's paperwork was processed by a customs agent, they can electronically submit the SAD on your behalf, as it should already exist given the HMRC Supplementary Declaration has already been processed.

Expert answer

Hi Matt,

If you mean are there companies that will do all the paperwork etc. and just give you a bill at the end, then yes there are. We've not used any of them ourselves so can't recommend any, but do a search online for those specialising in importing cars from the UK or Northern Ireland - and then look for public reviews of the services.

Expert answer

Hi John,

The MOT history should be enough to show that the car was used in the North for a reasonable amount of time, but obtain as much other documentation as possible to support your case, such as service history, V5C logbook details, etc. 

If in any doubt, discuss your situation with Revenue directly.

Expert answer

Hi Ronnie,

On the face of it, that's not difficult. You just buy a van you like the look of and inform your motor tax office that it will be used privately. The motor tax then changes to a rate defined by the van's engine size (regardless of how new it is).

Your bigger challenge could be finding insurance, and I urge you to check that out before committing to buying any vehicle.

Expert answer

Hi Teresa,

There's no definitive answer to that, but let's talk through some of it.

First up, while three-cylinder engines might be less balanced and more susceptible to stress when pushed than their four-cylinder counterparts, that's entirely unimportant if you generally pootle around and don't extend the engine to its fullest. And you service it properly.

If you like your car and you don't have to change it, why bother? The more you change your car, the more it costs you in the long run after all.

Nonetheless, if you've got it in your head that you don't trust the three-cylinder engine for some reason, then both the 1.5 Golf and the Corolla are good options.

If all that matters to you is reliability, then it's hard to ignore the Toyota as it has such a strong reputation on that front. We wouldn't expect the Golf to be unreliable as such, but the Corolla is bombproof.

But there's a lot more to a car than dependability and if you already like the Golf, you may well prefer another one over the Corolla. The drive very differently and feel very different, too.

Our advice would be to go and test drive the cars for yourself to see which you prefer, but don't hurry into a decision if there's nothing wrong with your current car.

Expert answer

Hi Cathal,

We'd be fools to suggest that you can be 100 per cent sure you won't have a problem if you do x, y and z, I'm afraid as there's just no guarantees with DPFs.

Saying that, modern cars such as the Tucson and Octavia you mentioned have way better DPF regen logic than they used to, along with more sophisticated exhaust monitoring than before so that's a good start, as is knowing the type of driving that's needed for diesel cars with DPFs – as you've indicated you understand.

You could ask the dealer selling the car (assuming you're not buying privately) for a diagnostic readout with the DPF information, but they're under no obligation to do that and some may not even know how.

My advice would be to insist on a detailed service history, scrutinise that for anything related to the DPF, then ask the seller if any work on the DPF has ever been done. Finally, take it for a decent test drive and, if possible, get someone else to drive it while you follow to observe the exhaust for any excess and obvious regen activity. You may see nothing with such modern cars, however.

The key thing here is to only buy a DPF-equipped car if you spend a portion of your normal driving at higher speeds, allowing the whole exhaust to get hot and work effectively.

Expert answer

Hi Donal,

For the benefit of our other readers, ERAD stands for Electric Rear Axle Drive, which is effectively the electric motor used on the rear axle of the plug-in-hybrid XC90 T8 (and other Volvo PHEVs) to give it all-wheel drive and fully electric operation. And yes, they are a known weak point of the car.

There is some evidence that Volvo will help with repair or replacement for cars with a full service history, but it seems to be dealt with on a case-by-case basis as there has been no official recall or statement on it from Volvo. Do not rely on this.

We'd strongly recommend you avoid early cars unless the ERAD unit has been replaced relatively recently, but Volvo did make improvements as early as 2018, and the facelifted cars from 2020 on (badged “Recharge”) are a relatively safe bet.

Look not only for a regular service history, but also for maintenance details relating specifically to the rear axle.

The D5/B5 cars are certainly a better bet in terms of dependability, but obviously come with higher running costs and motor tax.

Expert answer

Hi Padraig,

Though there's likely to be very little difference between the two cars in terms of reliability and safety (assuming other things like age, mileage, condition and service history are equal), you're most likely correct in terms of more expensive servicing and parts for the Audi. 

And make sure you get an insurance quote before you commit to any car.

Expert answer

Hi Dave,

Given you'll be on the motorway for an hour each way, presumably a few days a week at least, a diesel car seems to make the most sense in your case.

We'd also suggest that you stick to a car rather than an SUV as it will be better to drive, generally more comfortable and definitely more efficient.

Scouring the classifieds for options, here's what we reckon might suit:

Honda Civic 1.6 diesel
Hyundai i40 1.7 diesel
Kia Optima 1.6 diesel
SEAT Leon 1.6 diesel
Skoda Octavia 1.6 diesel
Volkswagen Passat 2.0 diesel
Volkswagen Golf 1.6 diesel

Come back to us if you'd actually rather stick with a premium marque. The above are a good bet in general when it comes to reliability, though as ever, take your time to choose a good example with a detailed service history, and take test drives as well.

Expert answer

Hi Ray,

We'd assume the asking price of the newer model will be in excess of €50,000 and that yours might sell for in the region of €24,000 on a dealer forecourt. Obviously, a dealer will never offer you that value, and this is where it's very difficult to predict a cost to change, as any dealer on any given day could make a different offer. It depends on how badly they want the sale, for example, and how much they're willing to have your car.

I'd estimate cost-to-change offers in the region of €29,000.

If you do go through with this, please send us a message in private so we can use that information to advise other readers in the future.