Expert answer

Hi John,

I put your question to Paul Healy, our News Editor, but also a very experienced man in the way of Japanese imports. Here's his response:

May we first commend you on your choice of choice of cars? There is little that can offer the kind of thrills the MX-5/Eunos Roadster does for the money.

In regards to your question; yes the Eunos Roadster is essentially just a Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) MX-5, but there are a few differences between the two cars. For the most part these are cosmetic or inconsequential differences such as the shape of the number plate surround or the fact that the speedometer will be in km/h instead of mph (which is actually handier). The bigger issues relate to the likes of the thinner windscreen that would require a new surround rubber should you need to replace it with one from a MX-5 and also the engine management system (ECU) differs between the cars, but failure of this system is rare so the likelihood of it being a problem is minimal.

While air conditioning was offered on both models many MX-5s do not have it whereas most Eunos Roadsters do. This means that the power steering belt that would also drive the air conditioning compressor will be different between the two cars. So too will be the radiator, as the Eunos almost certainly (the Japanese like their air conditioning) will have additional mounting points for the unit.

None of these issues present any real problem though. Such is the appeal of the MX-5/Eunos Roadster that a whole industry has sprung up to supply parts for both cars that are sometimes unavailable through official channels. Websites such as mx5parts.co.uk and mx5ireland.com are good resources.

Hope this helps!

Expert answer

Hi Noel,

Depending where you are in the world people refer to winter tyres as that or snow tyres. However, there are also more extreme tyres available specifically for driving on snow and ice that have metal studs in them.

Winter tyres that are suitable for Irish roads could be used all year around, though they do wear quicker in warmer weather. Likewise, in warmer weather they have less grip than a normal tyre. However, they come into their own in temperatures below +7 degrees centigrade (yes, that warm), as they don't harden. That means they're of use even if you're on a bone-dry road in low temperatures. On top of that they have 'sipes' cut into the rubber that massively increased grip on snow and ice.

Whether it's worth fitting them in Ireland is up for debate. Historically we only have a few days a year in which these tyres would be the best option, but the past two years have certainly increased the perception that we have cold, snowy winters. They are invaluable in such circumstances. Not only do they enhance traction to make it easier to climb hills, they also make it safer and easier to turn and stop.

A good value alternative to have in the boot that'll keep you going (at lower speeds) is snow socks.

Hope that helps.

Expert answer

Hi Joseph,

Unless you have proper disposal facilities and you have some experience in doing so we'd urge you not to change the oil filter in your car for yourself.

It's normal practice to change the oil at the same time. We'd do the following. Note that these are not exhaustive instructions, it is assumed that the car is safely raised up and that you have an environmentally sound way to dispose of the old oil.

1. Remove oil dipstick and oil filler cap.
2. Remove sump plug and allow old oil to drain into suitable receptacle.
3. If too tight to remove by hand, unscrew old oil filter using oil filter chain/belt tool, ensuring that the rubber seal comes away with it.
4. Lightly rub new oil on seal of new oil filter and tighten up - by hand only.
5. Replace sump plug. It is not unusual to have to replace the sealing washer that goes with this.
6. Lower car to ground and top up oil with recommended grade to correct level on the dipstick.
7. Close dipstick and filler cap and start car.
8. Allow to idle for a few minutes, stop engine and check level again.
   Top up if necessary.
9. Dispose of oil and filter in responsible manner.

Changing the air filter is much easier. Locate the air box under the bonnet. Its lid will be held on either by a series of clips or screws. Gently remove these and move the lid out of your way. Ensure that the replacement filter is an identical shape, replace and then reattach the lid as it was.

Hope that is of some help, though again, I'd discourage anyone from doing the oil and oil filter change unless you have the right facilities and tools.

Expert answer

Hi Aoife,

First up, the usual cause of exhaust fumes as you've described is a damaged seal on your rear hatch. Opening the car's windows changes the airflow so that it makes it worse. Check if the rubber seal is properly in place and if it is, if it appears to be damaged in anyway. A loose-fitting hatch will cause the same thing.

With regards to the timing belt, the price will vary massively depending on the type of garage you take the car to. Phone around is the best advice, but they should be quoting about 3-4 hours of labour.

I hope that all helps.

Expert answer

Hi Emma,

It's likely that the brakes have seized on that wheel. Don't worry though, it's usually not a big deal to sort out. It happens a lot to cars that are not used regularly.

If at all possible, move the car to a safe, flat piece of ground. This may require more revs than usual and in fact, doing this might be all it takes to unstick the brakes. If they are still stuck, then jack up the car and take off the wheel. Release the handbrake and tap the hub firmly with a rubber-coated mallet.

If that still doesn't do it, then you'll need to enlist the help of a mechanic, but in most cases just moving the car will do the trick.

In future, if you know you'll not be using your car for a while, don't use the handbrake. Park the car in gear and put blocks in front of the wheels.

Hope that helps