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Hi Andrew,

It seems there are some niggly little issues with the current shape Astra, but none of them seem to be utterly disastrous. There have been some reports of electronic issues, particularly around the cruise control and the (optional) electronic parking brake. Those problems can also cause the brake lights to flicker annoyingly. There have been two recalls issued for the car, one for the anti-trap sensor in the electric windows and one for faulty bolts on the front passenger seat. Make sure both of those have been carried out. Finally, as with the Insignia, there seems to be an occasional issue with the rubber seals on the boot so check the boot carpet for any signs of damp or water getting in.

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Hi Gemma,

You’ve got leaky seals either on the windscreen, the doors or the sunroof if there is one. Check for any obviously loose or ill-fitting rubber anywhere you can see it, but the best bet is to get to a garage and get the seals replaced.

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Hi Michael,

Sorry to tell you that, as far as we know, you only can get boot rubbers that fit over (e.g. no split), and you need a special tool as well. It might be easier to bring the car to a good mechanic.

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Hi Carmel,

OK, full disclosure - I owned a 2003 Laguna estate for several years, so I know here what I'm talking about. Realistically, they're not very reliable at all. The engines tend not to break in and of themselves, but everything else does. Anything electrical is suspect (especially the electric windows and the credit card key system), the suspensions are fragile (especially the rear rubber bushings) and the catalytic convertors regularly pop a rivet or two.

Best avoided to be fair.

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Hi Steven,

We asked Citroen Ireland about this one and here was the reply:

"There are two possibilities of engine type in Berlingo mark I 1.9d - you may have an XUD9, which is the earlier engine and is a Euro 2 emissions type engine; the second option is a DW8, which is a Euro 3. In Berlingo mark II 1.9d you only have DW8 type. You can tell the type from code found on the engine block."

The use of Bio-diesel and the associated guarantee conditions:

"Citroën approves of the use of Biodiesel as long as the quality of the biofuel/methyl-ester conforms to the European standard EN14214 and that the fuel mixture meets standard EN590, having a maximum 5% of fatty acid methyl-ester. A mixture of up to 30% Biodiesel in diesel fuel can be used. (B30: vegetable oil methyl-ester made from oil-seed rape). Such fuel must be supplied by the petrol companies directly and the fuel must not be stocked for more than three months.

On the other hand, Citroën does not cover under guarantee the use of pure biodiesel (B100): poor resistance of rubber components in the fuel circuit (leading to the risk of leaks and starting and running problems) and of the fuel injection components."

Hope that's of assistance

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Hi Joe,

The last-generation S60 got a bit unfairly hit by various Irish tax regimes (it never had an engine under 2.0 litres for instance), but it's actually a cracking car - well built and superbly comfy, as Volvos tend to be. Keep an eye out for minor electronic glitches (the cruise control and electric windows seem to be vulnerable points) and if the engine is 'lumpy' when you're switching it off, you're looking at injector issues - expensive ones.

In terms of day-to-day running costs, it should do 44mpg with a manual gearbox (a little less with the optional automatic) and emissions of 175g/km mean you can tax it for €750 a year. That's pricey, but better than buying a pre-2008 model (2008-2009 was the last full year of production) when the engine capacity would land you with a €1,034 tax bill. One running cost to keep an eye on is front tyres. The S60 is quite nose-heavy and has a massive turning circle, things that tend to banjax the front boots. Check any potential purchase for worn rubber and budget for at least a new set every year.

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Hi Mark,

The simplest and most sure way is to take a look underneath. Only the four-wheel drive RAV4 has a solid-looking metal tube running from the gearbox at the front to the rear axle, running alongside the exhaust. Also, there are distinct driveshafts to the rear wheels with rubber 'boots' on either end. The two-wheel drive car doesn't have any of that.

Hope that makes your life easier.

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Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...

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I'm not sure I'd recommend a pickup for you, as, until the very recent arrivals of the Volkswagen Amarok and Ford Ranger, they were all a bit crude and dreadful. They're commercial vehicles, not family cars. That said, if you want something truly rugged, then what about a Land Rover Defender 130 with a crew cab? Iconic looks and unbeatable toughness, but they can be expensive to buy and run.

Actually my recommendation would be to track down an old-shape Kia Sportage. It's surprisingly good at going off-road, comfy and decent to drive on the road and circa €8,000 should pick you up a good one, potentially with still a bit of Kia's famous warranty left to run. Not as stylish as the current Spprtage it's true, but invest in a sturdy rubber liner for the boot and you should have the ideal log-carrying device.

Hope that helps

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Hi Vishwa,

We've not come across this issue for ourselves. Kia Ireland said the same thing and that you really should talk direct to its customer service department about this. The contact is Stuart Kirwan. We'll send you his contact details via email.

Hope you get a satisfactory reply.