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What do you think about the Honda Civic's braking issue?

Thank you for your reply on the Honda Civic 2009, but I have since come across many complaints about the brakes and some people are only getting 10,000 kilometres before replacing. When the problem was reported to Honda, it did not want to know and blamed bad driving habits. There were far too many irate customers for this to be the reason. Yours comments would be appreciated.

Eamonn

Eamonn Connolly (Naas)

Jun 2013 Filed under: brakes

Expert answer

Hi again Eamonn,

You're right. There does seem to be a recurring issue out there in Civic-land with customers complaining about premature pad and disc wear.

Now, early brake wear is a very hard thing to analyse as we all drive differently. Someone who brakes late, rides the middle pedal constantly and generally displays a lack of mechanical sympathy is clearly going to wear the brakes and pads out faster. Look at F1 history for the perfect comparison. Back in 1988, McLaren engineers working with (super fast) Ayrton Senna and (super smooth) Alain Prost would have to remove and chuck away Senna's brakes after every race whereas Prost's could almost be re-used - if re-using things was something F1 teams ever did.

We have heard about the possibility that this early brake wear issue mostly affects low mileage Civics, as the brakes are simply not used enough to clear corrosion from the discs on a regular basis. Not sure about that one but it sounds just about plausible.

All we can suggest is to either take a competent mechanic along to help you thoroughly inspect any potential purchase (and we mean THOROUGHLY - wheels off and everything) or get the AA to inspect and report on the car prior to purchase. An honest vendor should also tell you whether they've noticed any early-onset brake wear when asked.

Let us know how you get on


How reliable is the Peugeot 207?

How reliable is the 2006 Peugeot 207 1.4 petrol?

Erwan Pilorget (Clondalkin)

May 2013 Filed under: reliability

Expert answer

Hi Erwan,

The 207 had recalls in 2007 for engine power loss, a loose seatbelt fixing and short-circuiting electrics. 

Watch for failed wipers and faulty fuse boxes while both clutch and gearbox can be fragile, especially with lots of urban driving. As always make sure the cambelt is replaced on schedule.

Hope that helps


What is the most efficient 1.2-litre car?

What is the most efficient 1.2-litre car?

James Nolan (Galway)

May 2013 Filed under: fuel economy and emissions

Expert answer

Hi James,

Theoretically it’s a tie between the Hyundai i10 and Citroen C3, both of which score an official 57mpg on the combined economy cycle. A lot is going to depend on your driving style and where you drive them, though.


Toyota Avensis 1.6 petrol or 2.0 diesel?

Toyota Avensis 1.6 petrol v 2.0 diesel? Annual mileage of 9,000 miles and typical journey 5-10 miles. I'm buying new and likely to keep for 5-7 years. My existing car is petrol, driving on country roads. What do you advise?

John Crowley (Cork)

May 2013 Filed under: petrol vs. diesel

Expert answer

Hi John,

With that kind of mileage, I think you should go for the petrol Avensis. Yes, it’ll be a little higher in tax costs, but you’ll get it for less than the diesel, and have lower maintenance costs. 


Is the Land Rover Discovery a good buy?

I am after a good 4x4 for work, the vehicle will see a lot of hill-climbing but not too much bad off-roading. I am looking at a 2008 Land Rover Discovery. I have to say it is like new, but for the mileage I will do (i.e. 500+ per week), do you think it'll be reliable? If not what would you recommend?

Regards

Donal Haslam (Rhode, Offaly)

May 2013 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Donal,

The Discovery is one of our very favourite cars, especially for the way it can carry seven full-sized adults in luxury-car comfort down the motorway. With big mileage like that though you will be rocking up the fuel bills, as a 2.7-litre V6 diesel Disco will only get about 29mpg in normal driving conditions. That said, you won't get any better from any of its rivals, so there you go.

As for reliability, Land Rover has come on in leaps and bounds in this respect recently, but there's no getting away from the fact that its vehicles tend to be more fragile than the Japanese competition. Small electrical niggles are the most likely problems but both the gearboxes and the air suspension can give problems too and those are rather more serious issues. The V6 diesel engine is pretty solid though.

It would be worth checking out both a Toyota Land Cruiser and Mitsubishi Pajero too, but while both of those would be more likely to have better reliability, neither can hold a candle to the Disco's on-road refinement and comfort.

Let us know which way you go


Kia Picanto or Fiat Punto for in town?

Would a Kia Picanto be better than a Fiat Punto for town driving?

Gerry Murphy (Clonmel)

May 2013 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Gerry,

Yes, as not only is it smaller and nippier than the Punto, it will be a lot more reliable, and easier to sell on again.


Help me choose an economical second commuting car.

What city car has the best fuel consumption from 1990? I'm looking to buy a second commuting car so will be buying a cheap used model.

Saz Wolv (Dublin)

May 2013 Filed under: fuel economy and emissions

Expert answer

Hi Saz,

If you're buying something that old, a lot of the potential fuel consumption is going to be down to the condition of the car and how badly worn the engine is. On that basis, I'd suggest you hunt around for a late nineties, early 2000s Suzuki Alto 1.0. They're as close to indestructible as any car can get to and the dinky little 1.0-litre engine should return mid-forties MPG, even around town. Again though, if you're looking to maximise economy, make sure it's serviced, make sure it gets a good high-grade engine oil and some decent tyres. There's nothing like good maintenance for driving your fuel bills down.

Let us know how you get on


What's the 1981 Porsche 911 like?

1981 Porsche 911: good or bad?

Jimmy Adams (Wexford)

May 2013 Filed under: classic cars

Expert answer

Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...


What goes wrong with the 2005 BMW 730d?

What are the most common faults with the 2005 BMW 730d?

Dave Byrne (Slane)

May 2013 Filed under: reliability

Expert answer

Hi Dave,

Apparently there's nothing major to report in reliability terms, but with a car as complex and reliant on its on-board electronics and diagnostics as this, we'd recommend an AA check (or other detailed inspection) before you buy. A couple of hundred Euro well spent. The 730d does go through brakes apparently, with a disc change needed every 30,000 miles even with very gentle driving.


Am I mad changing 2012 Golf for older BMW?

I'm driving a 2012 MK6 Volkswagen Golf Edition R (1.2 TSI). While I like a lot of things about the car I am increasingly frustrated by the significant understeer, lack of steering feel in general and the poor seats. I am thinking of changing to a BMW 3 Series M Sport (318d or 320d) around the 2009 or 2010 mark, using this as a trade in. I do very low mileage but I don't mind spending a bit more. Am I mad? I have a bit of a mental block changing from a 12 reg downwards.

Eoin S (Dublin)

May 2013 Filed under: choosing used car

Expert answer

Hi Eoin,

OK, first off you're not mad and an M Sport spec BMW 318d or 320d is just about as perfect a car as you'll find. Mind you, test drive carefully before you buy as the M Sport suspension can be pretty stiff and unforgiving on certain roads, and the steering, while more incisive than what you'd get in the Golf, can also be a bit heavy and fake-feeling.

That said, there are things you can do to make your Golf drive with a little more sharpness and the first place I'd start is with the tyres. Most, if not all, cars these days come with high-efficiency low rolling resistance tyres that are there to maximise fuel economy, but don't do much for steering feel or handling prowess. So why not swap the boots for something a little more aggressive? A set of Pirelli P-Zeros or Michelin Pilot tyres might just make all the difference, so it's worth a try if nothing else.

You could also look at modifying the suspension to dial out that understeer, but we'd recommend you seek professional mechanical advice before going down that road.

Let us know what you do in any case.