Expert answer

Hi Joseph,

A nice car that, with a very smooth chassis, and while the 1.8-litre supercharged petrol engine sounds a bit rough and ready, it's pretty economical. 

Now, this car comes from an era when Mercedes-Benz quality took a distinct dip, and although the C-Class wasn't as badly affected as the E-Class, there are still some issues. Chiefly they're electronic (engine management, faulty keys) and issues with incorrectly specced brake discs being fitted, although a previous owner should have caught that one.

Listen for clonking sounds from the rear suspension too - it's not an especial weak point but can be indicative of problems ahead. 

Finally, don't if you can avoid it, go for the manual. Not only will an automatic have a better resale value down the line, with Merc's awkward foot-operated parking brake, manual C-Classes are just too awkward to drive.

Expert answer

Hi Ian,

There are really only two options when it comes to S-Max engines and those are the 125hp 1.8 TDCi diesel and the 2.0-litre TDCi diesel in 140hp form. There was a 163hp version as well, but they're pretty thin on the ground and forget about the rarer than hen's molars 2.5-litre 212hp petrol version with the engine from the Focus ST; it was fantastic fun but nobody bought one as far as we can tell.

Now, originally both the 1.8- and 2.0-litre engines shared the same 164g/km CO₂ rating, which makes road tax a bit on the pricey side (€570 a year), but in 2010, Ford facelifted the S-Max, dropped the 1.8 TDCi and introduced an updated 2.0 diesel with emissions of 143g/km, making for a much more palatable €390 a year tax bill. So, that's the one we'd advise you go for and as long as you get either a Zetec or Titanium spec version, you'll get a reasonable amount of toys to keep you happy in the cabin.

Cracking car, the S-Max actually. Spacious but terrific to drive. Let us know how you get on.

Expert answer

Hi Ronan,

The officially quoted fuel consumption figure for the Passat B6 model with the 1.4 TSI 122hp engine was 7.5 litres per 100km (or 39mpg) combined, with the urban and extra urban figures working out at 10 litres/100km (28mpg) and 6.1 litres/100km (46mpg).

Hope that helps.

Expert answer

Hi Mike,

Right, you need something cheap (obviously), rugged and that's not going to mug you for petrol money when you run it up the M6 to Dublin. I know, I was that soldier. 

So, you need to go Japanese and you need to go for something that's compact but still has the engine grunt not to get overwhelmed on the motorway. Simple answer is the Suzuki Baleno. They're a bit hard to track down now, but a mid-nineties one should fall into your price range. 

They use a solidly reliable 1.3-litre petrol engine that's good on fuel but which has the cojones for motorway work. And the car as a whole is as close to indestructible as any car has actually physically come. An unsung cheap car hero.

Expert answer

Hi Arthur,

Potentially, yes. There are some isolated reports of camshafts physically snapping and causing damage to the valve gear, but it seems to be relatively rare and only affects cars with mileages above 200,000 miles. There is also a somewhat more common issue of the timing chain breaking and causing similar damage, but the cure for that seems simply to make sure that the chain is replaced once the car nears or has passed the 150,000-mile mark.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Dympna,

Really nice car, the Soul and one that's often overlooked as every other car maker rushes out its own compact crossover. The cabin can feel a little cheap in places and it's a bit noisy compared to the likes of the Peugeot 2008, but other than that, it's a canny buy. Not only do you get Kia's excellent seven-year warranty, but you also get a chassis that was tuned by sports car legends Lotus. A good buy.

Hope that helps

Expert answer

Hi Stephen,

Pros: handsome, very good to drive, comfortable, excellent diesel engines, spacious boot, safety levels, well equipped as standard. 

Cons: build quality and reliability not as good as, say, a Mondeo and definitely not as good as an Avensis in that regard. Rear seat space quite right. Mediocre petrol engines. Lots of fiddly buttons in the cabin.

Expert answer

Hi Paul,

For maintenance cost questions, I'd ask your friendly local Volkswagen dealer - they'll be able to give you much more accurate information than we would. 

As for the engine, it's perfectly up to the task of pulling the car because although it's a 'mere' 1.4, it also has a turbo and produces 120hp - about what you'd have expected from an old-school 2.0-litre naturally aspirated engine. It's also pretty frugal, so if you're not planning lots of long motorway journeys, it might work out better value than a diesel.

Expert answer

Hi Sean,

As far as the gearbox is concerned, more is always better, so a six-speeder should help keep your fuel consumption down a bit, especially if you do lots of cruising in top gear. 

As for engines, the 100hp one you refer to is a 1.6 petrol, while the 130hp unit is a 1.9 diesel. Obviously the diesel will be more economical, as the 1.6 struggles with the weight of the Passat and also suffers from problems with its driveshafts. 

Buy carefully though, as Passats of that age have often been abused by careless owners. There's plenty about however, so you can afford to be picky.

Expert answer

Hi Breda,

Well, on the one hand, both the Aygo and the Auris are very well built and reliable so both will minimise any potential for expensive maintenance costs, and both are very frugal and economical, so either would be a fine choice. The Auris might be a bit more of a painless switch if you've been used to a Golf, as it's similar in size and comfort levels.

But, as you say that your journeys have decreased in length, switching cars may not actually save you any money. Changing cars is usually more expensive than maintaining and running an older car, and you need to sit down and do your sums very, very carefully. Work out what the actual cost of change is for you (the price of either car you are considering minus the trade-in value of your Golf, but including the cost of finance) and balance that against the cost of continuing to run and fuel your existing car, factoring in some cash for a good service and a new set of tyres (often the best way to improve your fuel economy).