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Hi Shirley,

Not massively. It’s OK, but in spite of being made in Korea, we wouldn’t recommend it, not least because Euro NCAP found it to be one of the most unsafe cars it’s ever crash-tested. If you want the best in reliability, buy Japanese…

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Hi Chris,

Very, very reliable. Lexus simply does not make unreliable cars, but obviously with a car coming up to its tenth birthday you’ll want to give it a good check-over, and don’t buy anything that doesn’t come with a full and complete service history.

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Hi Mairead,

Pajeros are exceptionally rugged and reliable cars, as Mitsubishis tend to be. It’s an excellent tow car, with a maximum braked towing weight of 3,500kg, but if you’re towing something that big, remember that you will need a BE category licence if the weight of the car and trailer combined is more than 3,500kg.

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Hi Wayne,

Depends on the age and on the condition. The 1.5 dCi diesel is a pretty solid engine (look for turbo problems though) and if a Scenic is properly cared for and serviced on the button, they can be fine. Beware of electric gremlins on older cars and don’t buy anything that doesn’t come with a full service history.

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Hi John,

Short answer? Yes. Utterly solid. The only recurring engine fault we can find with a 1997-2003 Avensis isn't even a fault, it's just a warning to make sure the cambelt has been changed on schedule and that's something you should do with any car.

A lumpy-feeling steering wheel means the column needs re-greasing. A juddering brake pedal means the discs need replacing. Um, that's it. One of the most solid cars ever, but just bear in mind that the age of the model and the fact that they're known to be tough probably means that any you are looking at will have had a lot of abuse. Watch out for builders using them as impromptu vans and the inevitable taxi and minicab use. Let us know if you find a good one though.

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Hi Jimmy,

Good or bad? 911? Depends on your expectations, but the 1981 911 - the SC, which ran from 1978 to 1983 - was a fine example of Porsche’s iconic model. Losing the slightly prettier, slimmer bumpers of the 1960-70s cars a 1981 911 will feature the ‘impact’ bumper as part of Porsche’s homologation for USA production. They still look fabulous, though; indeed, after a period looking a bit sketchy the nicest, unmodified 911s of this vintage look great, slim hipped, and in the right colour with all the contrasting black rubber trim pieces and period Fuchs or cookie-cutter alloys they’re lovely. Personally, I’d avoid the whale tail look, many having been fitted with them after the fact, but it’s an easy replacement if it comes so specified.

Interiors are robust, if slightly austere, though the large glasshouse and slim pillars make it a fine driving environment. Gearboxes are fine, the 3.0-litre engine solid too, though like any car that’s over 30 years old they’ll need a bit more fettling than a modern car. Thankfully it’s all largely mechanical (rather than electrical), so it can be maintained by a competent home mechanic, though if you’ve bought a great condition, properly serviced car it’s best to keep it that way. Performance will feel brisk rather than outrageous if you’ve been used to modern performance cars, but then the immediacy of the responses, feedback through the wheel et.c will be on a different level to anything newer.

Perhaps not a daily driver, but as a weekend toy it’s a good choice, which if looked after should be worth everything you paid for it, and more in time. Rust shouldn’t be an issue, as all these cars are galvanised, but do check the inner front and and rear wings, and fore of the rear wheels, any potential water traps around the doors, windows and engine/bonnet lid locks, the battery box and under the carpets inside. Bad rust will point to poor accident repairs. Take a good look underneath for oil leaks from both the engine and gearbox. 1981 cars deliver 204hp. Do a bit of internet digging; it’s an enthusiast car so there’s lots of info out there. If in doubt speak to a club/specialist and take them along for a viewing - they may charge but it could save you in the long run... Jealous? A bit, the 3.0 SC is a lovely thing...

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Hi Gerry,

This being a Toyota, you'll not be surprised to learn that there are, thankfully, very few major issues with the Previa. Really, the only engine checks you have to make are that the timing belt has been changed on schedule (every 60,000 miles) and the engine oxygen sensor is working right - if the engine management light stays on after you're started the car that's usually the sign of an issue.

On the inside check for floppy arm-rests. Seriously, apparently the adjustable arm-rests do wear out and refuse to stay in place, which must be annoying.

Underneath, rear track control arms on the suspension can be out of alignment (listen for knocking noises) and if you feel a juddering brake pedal you may need to budget for replacement discs. And apparently they eat tyres - big heavy cars tend to do that.

Hope that helps

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Hi Eoin,

OK, first off you're not mad and an M Sport spec BMW 318d or 320d is just about as perfect a car as you'll find. Mind you, test drive carefully before you buy as the M Sport suspension can be pretty stiff and unforgiving on certain roads, and the steering, while more incisive than what you'd get in the Golf, can also be a bit heavy and fake-feeling.

That said, there are things you can do to make your Golf drive with a little more sharpness and the first place I'd start is with the tyres. Most, if not all, cars these days come with high-efficiency low rolling resistance tyres that are there to maximise fuel economy, but don't do much for steering feel or handling prowess. So why not swap the boots for something a little more aggressive? A set of Pirelli P-Zeros or Michelin Pilot tyres might just make all the difference, so it's worth a try if nothing else.

You could also look at modifying the suspension to dial out that understeer, but we'd recommend you seek professional mechanical advice before going down that road.

Let us know what you do in any case.

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Hi Catherine,

A rough estimate of your C4's value should give you a budget of around €12,000 (and you might even do a bit better than that if you're lucky). Even at that level though, there is a plethora of cars matching your description out there. How about we start with something really classy? A BMW 316i maybe? Plenty out there, all priced around €11k and the 1.6-litre engine means reasonable tax and fuel economy even though it's a petrol engine.

Or you might need something a bit more spacious and economical. So we found a Citroen C5 Tourer estate with the 1.6-litre HDi diesel engine. It's a 2008 model so you'll be on the new CO₂-based tax system, it's massive inside and very comfy. Well built too.

Finally, you might fancy something a bit more compact and cheaper to run, and that budget opens up a world of Ford Focus saloons and estates with either the 1.6-litre petrol or 1.8 diesel engines. Simple, spacious, reliable and plentiful, you won't go wrong with that one.

WHat do you think?

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Hi Ed,

Do you mean a Jaguar XF? The XK was the fast V8 coupe, and never had a diesel engine. If it is the XF, then they’re pretty solid cars. The diesel engine needs careful checking to make sure that the diesel particulate filter is working properly, and that the cam belt has been changed every 160,000km. Also listen for clonking suspension and check for cracked alloys, and make sure all the electrics are working properly. If it has a full service, then it should be fine.

As for the Merc, that generation of E-Class was very badly built, and you need to check and make sure that it’s been back in for all its ‘service recalls.’ Check for leaks from the transmission and the radiator, and the air mass sensor often triggers an engine warning light. Electronics are deeply suspect, and if the car vibrates under acceleration, the gearbox could need replacing.