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Hi Willy,

An illuminated brake pad warning light will most likely fail the NCT. The manual has a provision for failing a car based on pads that need to be changed and while yours were changed the light suggests they're not right. Whoever changed the brakes either didn't attach the brake pad warning wiring or they used the wrong pads. It needs to be looked into.

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Hi Liam,

The official figures for that model were 34mpg or 8.2 litres per 100km on the combined cycle.

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Hi Gavin,

I'd have to say nope. It's not very big inside and it has needlessly heavy steering that makes manoeuvring in town a chore. 

Do you really need an SUV? Why not consider a nice estate? BMW's own 3 Series Touring is a belter. Or, for your budget, you could probably stretch to an Audi A6 Avant. Track down one with quattro four-wheel drive and leave all the front-drive SUVs standing when it snows. 

Or, if you're determined on the SUV front, consider one of the following: Honda CR-V, Volvo XC60, Hyundai Santa Fe or Mazda CX-5.

What do you think?

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Hi Mícheál,

This kind of thing is always difficult to analyse from afar so unless you're used to DIY on your car it's best you take it to a mechanic you trust. It sounds like the catch on either the lock on the door or the B-pillars themselves is not aligned properly. The lock may be damaged too of course.

Let us know how you get on.

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Hi Nelius,

Cracking car the original Mazda6. One of the best-to-drive saloons ever built and the good news is you're looking at mostly pros, and very few cons. The only real mechanical weak point is the clutch - we've heard of them failing at as little as 50,000km so check to make sure that the action is smooth and not too heavy and that the gear changes are crisp and quick. Any slipping or smell should set off alarm bells.

Other than that, there are a few recalls that you need to make sure were attended to (leaky fuel lines, dodgy fog lamps, brake warning light and oil seals) and it's worth checking to make sure that the suspension and steering are in good fettle and that there's a good set of high-quality tyres on the car; the better to enjoy that wonderful handling balance.

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Hi Michael,

Right, the base spec is going to be harder to sell on again, so you're better by far going for the S line as long as you can live with the firmer ride. 

In terms of the difference between the cars in mileage and warranty - it's down to condition and history. If the 80k car is in as good nick, and has a full service history, then there's nothing to worry about and you can always buy an aftermarket warranty to keep yourself covered.

Let us know which way you go

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Hi Gerard,

Check the air conditioning to make sure it's working - that seems to be a perennial A6 weak point. Also make sure that the engine has had a regular top up of oil - they do get through a bit between services. Check everything electrical too especially if any of the warning lights on the dash are on. ECUs (Engine Control Units) are also a bit fragile so take a long test drive with lots of hard acceleration and check for any drops in power.

Hope that all helps

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Hi John,

All are pretty good and I have to admit to having thrown some covetous glances myself at second-gen Ford Mondeos lately - that's a shape that has aged really, really well. That said, from the ones you've selected there, I'd go for the Mazda. It has terrific handling (best in the class for that time, actually) and should be very reliable so it's definitely the one to pick.

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Hi Alan,

Well, that's 67,000km a year so we'd call that pretty high mileage. To say the least. Get the diesel. You're going to need it.

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Hi Sean,

We asked Audi Ireland about this for you and though your registration or chassis number would be needed to give an accurate quotation, here's a ballpark figure:

"If the vehicle is greater than three years old and a 2.0 or smaller engine the fixed price for a clutch replacement is €949. This does not include the flywheel as in many cases it is not required."

Come back to us with your details if you'd like a more accurate figure