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Hi Jim,

How long is a piece of string? Sorry, but it is actually a tricky question to answer because it kind of involves asking 'which Range Rover?' That is to say that Land Rover's build quality, while it has consistently been improving over the past decade, can still be a touch variable. Many Range Rovers will get through big mileages with no trouble, while others simply won't.

The good news is (and I'm talking about post-2002 models here) that generally Range Rover unreliability has gone from trouble with major items such as brakes and suspension to minor niggles involving electrical components. Basically, if you're buying a Rangie make sure all the buttons work as they should and then budget a substantial amount of money to fix them when they don't. Engines, gearboxes and other bits are generally fine as long as the car has been serviced fully and has history to back that up. You won't get the flawless reliability that you'd get from a Toyota Land Cruiser for instance, but Rangies are certainly more solid than some of the rumours would have it.

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Hi there,

Welcome to Ireland! I'd suggest you have a look for a Honda Civic 1.4 petrol automatic. That's probably the best balance between reliability (Civics are very reliable), economy and sticking within your budget. The higher road tax comes from the changeover to a carbon emissions based system in 2008. Prior to that cars were taxed according to their engine size, but the Civic's 1.4-litre petrol engine should keep your tax bills down to a reasonable level. Sadly, there's nothing you can do to change the NCT test - every car requires one every two years once it's more than four years old, and every year once it's more than ten years old. Again, the Honda will help here - they're really well built so less likely to develop problems that would cause you to fail an NCT test, as long as you look after it and keep it serviced.

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Hi John,

I'm going to be predictable and say you should get a Volkswagen Golf. A budget of €3k would definitely get you a MkIV 1.9 TDI model and you may even just scrape into a MkV, which would be even better again. Just track down one that's been looked after and serviced regularly and you should be fine.

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Hi Keith,

The areas you have to check carefully on an E60 5 Series are the suspension and electrics. If there are any nasty noises coming from underneath, or if the steering feels anything less than precise and solid, you've got possible trouble. The run-flat tyres can also cause trouble, suffering from little air leaks that play havoc with the tyre pressure monitoring system. The iDrive infotainment system can also be wayward, sometimes taking as long as 20 minutes to boot up, but apparently post-2005 cars are far better in this regard. Finally, check all the electrical and electronic systems to make absolutely sure that everything is working as it should be, and don't even consider a car that doesn't have a full service history.

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Hi Greg,

Yup, they're a good 'un. Ford's reliability record has been steadily improving over the past few years and there are no major reported issues for that generation of Focus. Just watch that a recall to fix a leaking fuel return pipe has been completed and, of course, make sure the car has a full service history. Oh, and as many of these cars will have begun life as company cars, that can mean that they've been well cared for and serviced regularly, but it can also mean that they've been abused by uncaring owners. Check carefully.

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Hi Mary,

I presume that's either a Laguna or a Scenic you're talking about? In that case, it looks like a very good price for a car with very low mileage. However, with that kind of small miles on a diesel you need to be careful of two things. 1 - make sure that the previous owners have been doing enough long, high-speed runs to generate temperature in the exhaust system to clear out the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and, 2 - carefully check the history of the car to make sure that the mileage is genuine. Renault build quality is generally a little better than you might think, but you still need to be more careful than with other brands. Check carefully that all the electrics are working properly, especially the windows, and make sure the car has a full and complete service history.

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Hi Bernadette,

I'd say between €7,000 and €8,000 on a trade-in, depending on what you're trading it in against.

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Hi Bernadette,

You're most likely looking at a value of between €5,000 and €7,000 for your Corolla. If you're looking to trim your running costs then downsizing to a Yaris could be a good idea. You just need to do your sums carefully to make sure that the cost of upgrading (the price of the new car minus your trade in) isn't more than what you could potentially save in terms of petrol and road tax over the same period. 

Choosing an Auris isn't downsizing - it's the car that replaced the hatchback Corolla and is the same size. The only way it could save you money is if you went for the diesel version and that would only work if you're doing big mileages - 15,000km a year or more.

So, with that in mind, it may be worth looking at simply keeping your current car. A mileage of 89,000km is barely run in for a Corolla and it may be worth looking at simply getting your existing car serviced, valeted and maybe updated (new alloys? a nicer stereo?). It may work out cheaper in the long run.

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Hi Karl,

Short answer? Track down a nice Golf 1.9 TDI. As long as you keep it serviced that old 'Pump Düse' engine is solid, 50mpg is easily done and it's comfy and sweet to drive.

What do you think?

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Hi Tanya,

Actually, both cars have exactly the same engine - BMW's long-serving 3.0-litre straight-six diesel. The first generation X5 is little short of excellent, with terrific handling and a gorgeous, comfortable cabin. Reliability isn't the best though. The engines have occasional problems with fuel injectors and developing cracks in the inlet manifold, while steering and suspension are also prone to damage and wear. X5s are also notorious for chewing through tyres at a ferocious rate. The engine's air mass sensor can also fail, leading to poor acceleration although you'll spot that easily enough on a test drive.

Basically, it's worth getting any potential purchase checked over by the AA for any faults, and just ignore anything that doesn't come with a full service history. Oh, and it's better to go for the 2004 one - that should have the newer six-speed automatic gearbox (ignore manuals - they'll be worth much less come trade-in time) that improves fuel economy to just over 30mpg.